Lansky

[ono724]

Okay, got a Lansky deluxe sharpening system coming from Amazon in the next day or so. I've read there's a bit of a learning curve with the thing. So, all comments/advice are welcome and appreciated

Am I gonna like this thing?

 

[eccvets]

im afraid not if you want a really sharp edge. You should have gotten a paper wheel system or a belt sander system. its ok if you have never really felt a razors edge and how sharp a knife can get but if you need to get a knife sharp enuf to cut cardboard or paper it will work. its a step up from a sharpmaker but not by very much. theres too much possibly play in the holes and its hard to get the metal L's to be exactly the same angle.

BTW: if you have a really nice knife i wouldnt use too low of an angle cuz you may scratch your blade.

 

[GhostRing]

Lanky is my only experience so far with fixture-type sharpeners and it's...ok.
Good for "users" but not the best for knives you want to show off.
You can get a decent blade shaving sharp, but the method is both a trade-off for convenience, and clunky at the same time.
Getting the blade set up correctly often yearns for a 3rd hand.


My advice is, once you get the rods set how you want them - leave them alone.
Good practice to check them every time, but no sense always starting from scratch .
They can also deflect pretty easy, so don't try to hasten the job - let the stones do the work.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Okay, got a Lansky deluxe sharpening system coming from Amazon in the next day or so. I've read there's a bit of a learning curve with the thing. So, all comments/advice are welcome and appreciated

Am I gonna like this thing?

I sort of cut my teeth on the Lansky. My first really good edges were produced using it. The main thing is, be patient and take your time when setting it up.

I've extracted the text below from my reply to an older thread (same subject). Here's a link to that thread:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=9073069

As with any sharpener, good or bad depends on patience. The Lansky can produce some very good results, but some time & patience is required to set up the clamp on the blade. If the blade isn't clamped correctly, it will either slip/pivot side-to-side, or rock up/down. Any movement of the blade in the clamp will produce inconsistent & poor results.

The main thing is to make sure the inner clamping surfaces are completely flush with the sides of the blade, before tightening the screws down. If it isn't flush, the blade will move in the clamp. Adding some masking/painter's tape on the blade, or on the inside surfaces of the clamp, can add some 'grip' for blades that are somewhat 'slick' (polished).

Pinch the clamp to the blade with your fingers, then tighten down the forward screw until you just encounter some resistance. At that point, adjust the rear screw until it's just exerting some pressure on the inside surface of the other side of the clamp. Double-check to make sure the clamp is still flush against the blade, then gradually tighten down the screws as described above. Check for slippage/rocking of the blade in the clamp, and look at the blade end-on (with it pointed straight at you), and make sure it's not 'slanted' towards one side of the clamp or the other (that'll make for a wider bevel on one side, and narrow on the other).

As for holding the clamp while sharpening, I've always used a hobby-type vise (mounted or otherwise secured to bench/counter/table) to hold it. Just clamp the 'down' side of the clamp into a vise while sharpening one side, then flip it over in the vise when you're ready to do the other side. Lansky does make a 'pedestal' (to be screwed/clamped to bench) which allows the clamp to be supported while sharpening, but it's just basically a 'peg' upon which the clamp will sit. I don't care for it, because it allows the clamp to pivot/swivel in place. Can't be held completely still. That's why I prefer to use a vise to hold the clamp.

BTW, the same advice applies to the GATCO (I have both).

Additionally, I'd just add that you'll be much happier with the results if you make sure to keep your pressure LIGHT, when using the Lansky hones. This will make the scratch pattern more uniform with each hone, and will also provide additional assurance that the blade won't move/slip in the clamp. Using light pressure is always good sharpening technique, regardless of which tool/system you're using.

A BIG plus, when sharpening, is to use as much magnification as you can get (I'd highly recommend at LEAST 10X - 20X, but more is even better), and use it with very good lighting. Being able to see, up close, what's happening at the edge as you sharpen, will make a huge difference in knowing when you're ready to progress to the next hone. Make sure the edge is completely apexed (to a sharp 'V'), before moving past the coarse hone. With most steels, this will also produce a burr at the edge. Beyond the coarse (1st) hone, it's all about removing the burr and refining the scratch pattern from the previous grit.

Good luck. :thumbup:

I'll do some more digging through old threads (I've replied to/about this system quite a lot, in the past). If I find more info that might be of use, I'll link it here.

 

[ono724]

Thanks y'all for the exceptionally useful feedback :thumbup:

Obsessed with Edges- Thanks for the links!