Lanyard Tubes (what size, where to source)?

Joined
Apr 5, 2024
Messages
71
I'm planning on using paracord (diamond-in-monkey's-fist knot) or leather thong (sort of like Horsewright Horsewright 's knives) for a lanyard on a few knives for friends.
Where is a good place to get tubes: stainless, brass, copper or even something like carbon fiber?
Since I'm gluing it in, I don't imagine wall thickness is a big issue - but inner diameter, like 0.25 inch?
I have seen some other knives here with somewhat larger holes that 0.25 inch ...

The knives are going to be something similar to a Sloyd knife, but I just like lanyard holes in general.
 
I use thin wall 1/4 copper tubing from Tru Grit Abrasives. They kinda hide it on their website, easier to call.
 
I need to find the thinner walled stuff, been using 3/8 OD copper tubing from my local Lowes. I have also used stainless, titanium and G10 tubing from various places.
 
I need to find the thinner walled stuff, been using 3/8 OD copper tubing from my local Lowes. I have also used stainless, titanium and G10 tubing from various places.

I mostly use a bronze-nickel alloy, high end brake line. It's coiled.Flares beautifully. The coloring seems to match a variety of color schemes. Doesn't darken much.
I have a ton of it.
If you PM me your address, I'll send you a chunk to try out, if you'd like.
 
Funny you mention that, I was actually looking at bronze tubing from McMaster the other day. Still might pull the trigger, but would like to see someone manufacture matching bronze (not brass) corby bolts.
 
I get 5/16" OD, 1/4" ID stainless tubes from amazon. I also get the same size (5/16" OD and 1/4" ID) black micarta tubes from Current Composite. I have some brake line tubing here, but haven't used it yet. I hate lanyard tubes that are too small to fit paracord through! I've also found some thicker walled stuff at Pops and other knife making supply places.
 
I get 5/16" OD, 1/4" ID stainless tubes from amazon. I also get the same size (5/16" OD and 1/4" ID) black micarta tubes from Current Composite. I have some brake line tubing here, but haven't used it yet. I hate lanyard tubes that are too small to fit paracord through! I've also found some thicker walled stuff at Pops and other knife making supply places.
I agree about hating the smaller diameters alot of people do..... That is one of the reasons I when with the brake line. It's 5/16" O.D. and aprox. .035" wall thickness.

I wanted them to flare easy, too. I dont like seeing them Just glued in. Without and mechanical fastening means. that's just a weak joint.

Close up of a flared, brake line tubing.
 
Last edited:
I agree 5/15" OD is the size I like. I tend to use brass tubing - these B0CLV3KJ84 from Amazon. They're about .020" wall thickness and flare nicely after annealing before flaring.

Crag, what is the wall thickness of the bronze-nickel alloy you use? That sounds interesting. I might look around for some. Do you have a source name I can search?
 
I agree 5/15" OD is the size I like. I tend to use brass tubing - these B0CLV3KJ84 from Amazon. They're about .020" wall thickness and flare nicely after annealing before flaring.

Crag, what is the wall thickness of the bronze-nickel alloy you use? That sounds interesting. I might look around for some. Do you have a source name I can search?

I'm at work, I think i got it from Amazon, or a car parts distribution place, right now I can't remember?
about .035" wall thickness

I did have to gamble and buy something like 30-50 feet, and it was kinda pricey but I like the look of them alot, and it's easy to work with. (Ive read that some thick wall tubing splits easy) I have successfully flared brass and stainless, too
navman navman
Just let me know if you didn't want to buy a bunch.....

D daily_grind
I don't have a fast way of doing it. There is probably a faster way.
In my opinion, the most difficult part is getting the length and the centering of the tube in place.

What I found that looks best is....

1. Align your handle scale material with your hole in the blade's tang.
2. Glue/epox up your handle. (I also generally use fasteners too. I like very secure handles)
3. clamp/Let cure
4. Shape handle to size, maybe do most of the handle sanding.
5. CT'SK chamfers to size. -What looks good to you? I don't like them too big.
6. Cut tubing a little proud of the thickness of the handle.
7. Glue/epox tubing in handle centering it. *Make sure no glue is in your chamfer area, only in the bore.
8. Let cure
9. grind flush with handle, sand tubing edge to look nice. (IMPORTANT/Be careful not to mar or gouge your nicely finished handle)
10. Press/Flare tubing into your chamfers. I use a small arbor press.

If everything worked out it looks good.
-kinda a pain in the butt, but it works. glueing the tubing first, ensures it doesn't slip, and shift, making it look off centered.
 
Last edited:
I used to use carbon fiber arrows for mine. Recently, I ordered (ebay I think) a few feet of 7mm thin wall carbon fiber tubes and a 7.1mm carbide drill bit. Diamond cut-off wheel in a dremel works great for cutting the tubing, and I also use it for putting a bunch of nicks around the tube so epoxy will get a mechanical grip.
 
5. CT'SK chamfers to size. -What looks good to you? I don't like them too big.
I tried to figure out what CT'SK meant - cut and ... ?
So you pretty much shape your handle before you install your tubes?
I hadn't actually tried to install any yet, I got some tubing from Lowes, and I have a test handle to try out. I can see that it would be hard to peen something that had already been sanded flush with the rest of the handle ... I had some half inch round bar that I had considered making cone mandrel out of so that I could tap it into the tube. Or maybe just use a small ball peen hammer.
 
Ctsk = counter sink

Yes, finish handle as much as possible.
If you shaped handle after flaring, you'd probably grind most of that detail away....

Steel bearing would work.
Ball of ball peen
Underside of flat head screws
Shank on a punch

Lots of things could flare the tubing if you don't have the proper dies.

*I recommend practicing on a couple practice holes first.
 
Back
Top