Lapping 220 grit Norton

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oMniPotent14

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Jun 17, 2016
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Hello, I'm new here. I hope I'm posting this in thee appropriate section. Decided to get my feet wet with knife sharpening recently. I purchased 220/1000 Norton combo stone. I have a bunch of kitchen knives with wavy edges so I figured the 220 grit would be good to straighten out the edge?

The thing I'm not sure how to do is lap this stone. I own a DMT 325, is that appropriate to lap a 220 wetstone? I always assumed you needed a lower grit lapping plate. I can't seem to find wet/dry sandpaper in a grit under 400.
 
oMniPotent14 said:
Hello, I'm new here. I hope I'm posting this in thee appropriate section. Decided to get my feet wet with knife sharpening recently. I purchased 220/1000 Norton combo stone. I have a bunch of kitchen knives with wavy edges so I figured the 220 grit would be good to straighten out the edge?

The thing I'm not sure how to do is lap this stone. I own a DMT 325, is that appropriate to lap a 220 wetstone? I always assumed you needed a lower grit lapping plate. I can't seem to find wet/dry sandpaper in a grit under 400.
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Hi,
why do you need to lap the 220 side?
A simple search for "lapping DMT325" shows straightrazorplace guys talking about doing this...
so it could work to flatten the waterstone ... use at your own risk :D

A slightly lower grit is important for conditioning stones after they're flat
But since (the internet also says) the norton waterstones are soft/weak bond
they shouldn't need conditioning , just make them flat, use them


Speaking of sandpaper, got an old beltsander belt? Wrap it around a flat piece of lumber use it as a flattening stone (or cut+nail to wood)


How wavy are the edges, how much recurve do they have?

I've removed some recurves, by cutting into a dollar tree stone to remove recurve/dips by flattening some high spots, but its not a waterstone :)

the waterstone guys appear to work on removing recurves with by putting finger pressure on the trouble/high spots to grind them down faster than the rests of the edge until its not wavy anymore
 
oMniPotent14 said:
Hello, I'm new here. I hope I'm posting this in thee appropriate section. Decided to get my feet wet with knife sharpening recently. I purchased 220/1000 Norton combo stone. I have a bunch of kitchen knives with wavy edges so I figured the 220 grit would be good to straighten out the edge?

The thing I'm not sure how to do is lap this stone. I own a DMT 325, is that appropriate to lap a 220 wetstone? I always assumed you needed a lower grit lapping plate. I can't seem to find wet/dry sandpaper in a grit under 400.
Click to expand...

Sanding belt around a piece of wood is a handy tool. Smaller hardware shops sometimes have a better selection of silicon carbide wet/dry (the black/dark grey material) than the big box stores, a couple sheets of 60 or 80 grit will come in handy, use over a hard surface like a brick and plenty of water.

I've also used the $6 cut off wheels for metal chop saws, again with plenty of water. The 220 is coarse enough you could get away with using a flat stretch of sidewalk and plenty of water, use a figure 8 pattern and swap ends often.

I would not use the DMT unless its an Extra, Extra Coarse.

It will be a big help to work the entire surface of the 220, its a notoriously soft stone and will rapidly groove and dish if you only work one area.

Lastly, some wavy edges are caused by warps in the blade - give them a good looking over before deciding how to proceed.
 
I half wrecked an small XC dmt on a Norton a few years ago. Looking back it was stupid for a variety of reasons. The main reason was the cost of a dmt vs a Norton. I have a problem with flattening on cement, even with copious a mounts of water they glaze. Heavy hand turned me on to the cut off discs but I have issues removing the label.
I like a a big old crystolon when it comes to removing lots of metal but I have to be very conscious of using the the whole surface or they dish big time. I have turn to cheap diamond plates but I am older and am used to that wonderful feeling of bearing down on a Norton and seeing the scarf build.
Sorry if I am hijacking, I now have a dmt xxc and the coarsest atoma but no way are they gonna touch Si oxide Again?
The point of my rant is I would flatten a Norton with diamonds.
Russ
 
I did not see you were talking about a water stone. Oh well... I got to vent at least... Carry on Gents.
Russ
 
ONLY, the XXC DMT or Hardcoat plates are rated for lapping duties, all others plates are used at your own risk.

Other options are the Noton or Naniwa leveling stones, I believe the Naniwa is around $20 and the Norton around $50.
 
I used a Smiths 325 grit hone to flatten out dished spots and maybe it was just the extra small surface area concentrating all the abrasion in one spot, but the 220 eventually ground the diamonds out of the nickle substrate.

Norton make their own flattening stone that costs less than a DMT plate anyway.
 
Jason B. said:
They are not always flat though so it's a buy at your own risk kinda thing.
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Yea forgot about that , I bought the 400/1000 combo plate for CKTG and I don't have calipers but I used the 400 to lap with no issues and even checked by lapping with the dnt xc after the combo plate and it made no difference .
 
The combo plate is good, it's the generic 140 that can have issues.
 
Jason B. said:
The combo plate is good, it's the generic 140 that can have issues.
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IMHO and I'm sure you'll agree but a good low grit diamond is a must to anyone serious about sharpening and I don't suggest going cheap .

I bought the cheapie combo plate well because it was cheap and I wanted to save wear on my dmts and I also wanted to lap a stone known to kill diamonds , I would not have bought it on its on.

I've used my dmt double duty to both flatten and shape and it's still kicking, it was money well spent . It's my workhorse in my arsenal seriously if I'm sharpening say half hour 10 minutes maybe more is on my XC diamond and I get a great edge off it and the rest is just refining through the grits and it takes no time .


Seriously I don't care what stone you have if it's not flat your edges suffer and I just don't trust anything but the well known diamond plates and mine has far exceeded my expectations for the price . Sure I'm looking at aToma 140 or dmt xxc but my dmt XC has really proved to be a great purchase .
 
i'm in the 140 atoma club now boys

the price was brutal but its doing great work.
 
Not to completely derail but I'm thinking of just buying the replacement pad and was going to just stick it to the bottom of a dmt. I know they are a little different in size but not much anybody done this? Option 2 is buy the stoma 140 with base and then just the 400 pad and make a double sided one ,but I prefer the dmt way if it'll work
 
Spartan00 said:
Not to completely derail but I'm thinking of just buying the replacement pad and was going to just stick it to the bottom of a dmt. I know they are a little different in size but not much anybody done this? Option 2 is buy the stoma 140 with base and then just the 400 pad and make a double sided one ,but I prefer the dmt way if it'll work
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