Lapping Films...

Eli Chaps

Eli Chaps

Joined
Apr 20, 2018
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Let me start by saying that no, I do not need any lapping films. Most all of my sharpening is focused on steels that I can readily work on ceramics, Arkansas, and simple strops.

But...I've sort become infatuated with at least the idea of them. I had a chance to strop my EDC on a piece of scrap film and was impressed by the keenness of the edge (300 grit and been awhile since it saw that).

So next thing you know, I'm reading and watching and reading some more. I'd get the sheets and cut down for bench stone sized application.

It would just be to see how they perform. Not necessarily looking to revolutionize my sharpening methodology. Just like trying new things and experimenting.

What say you all? Experiences? Thoughts?
 
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I have used lapping film in conjunction with HeavyHanded HeavyHanded 's Washboard sharpening system with good results. Maybe Heavyhanded will drop in, he knows way more about lapping films than I do. I can say that my experience mimics yours, crisp clean edges that cut well. I have mostly used films from 3M but I got some from Lapika that worked very well.
 
Diemaker said:
Interesting to play with but they don't last very long so you spend a bit of time replacing them, which caused me to lose interest fairly fast.
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That was my main concern. Do they die off fairly quick with just stropping?

A little messy too I reckon.
 
alternatively you could use diy lapping films like the ones from the PTS method

i vouch for the method, its functionality and effectiveness. it's still my ultimate way of stropping or lapping.
 
They work great but are very easy to nip. I've gotten very good lifetime from the diamond ones, very good actually - I don't think I've ever killed one from use rather they get nicked. AlumOx have a much shorter life but still not bad, esp as they are a lot cheaper than diamond - I have never used the SiC ones.

My opinion, pay for the diamond ones, use them with a very small amount of oil, stick with trailing passes and as with any compressible substrate use them over a hard surface or an interrupted one with light pressure.
 
HeavyHanded said:
They work great but are very easy to nip. I've gotten very good lifetime from the diamond ones, very good actually - I don't think I've ever killed one from use rather they get nicked. AlumOx have a much shorter life but still not bad, esp as they are a lot cheaper than diamond - I have never used the SiC ones.

My opinion, pay for the diamond ones, use them with a very small amount of oil, stick with trailing passes and as with any compressible substrate use them over a hard surface or an interrupted one with light pressure.
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Would you go with the films over just diamond sprays on wood?
 
HeavyHanded said:
I might, only because you don't have to worry about keeping it clean, and it can do a lot of work with little fuss. Depends on how much use it will see.
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Thank you.

Do you recommend oil for the Alox films?

I'm thinking just a stropping medium so edge trailing.
 
What would you be gaining by stropping with film? It's easy enough to do with diamond spray or cbn. And those compounds will easily cut any steel.
 
Bill3152 said:
What would you be gaining by stropping with film? It's easy enough to do with diamond spray or cbn. And those compounds will easily cut any steel.
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Oh I don't know that I'd be gaining anything.

Right now, for my high-alloy/hardness steels like S90V, ZDP, etc. I use my KME and have that covered. But I don't use those steels too often and have transitioned primarily to "lower" stuff.

For those steels, and my bench-sized stuff in general, I don't have a diamond/CBN set up. So I'm just pondering ideas and approaches and considering some fun with experimentation more than any type of performance gain. If I'm going to drop say $25, do I want to go with sprays/emulsions, or with some films? That's more or less what's going on in my brain.
 
I hear ya! I use 1 micron cbn on leather when I want a really wicked edge. I also have .25 micron diamond. But that is left over when I used to use on razors.
 
Was able to grab a small remnant of 0.5um diamond film. About 10"x2" I guess. This stuff is not PAS but rather has an adhesive backing. Stuck it to a piece of thicker, hard plastic and made things work and wow! Ran my Dexter Russell vegetable clever over it a few times and the results were immediately apparent.

This isn't even pristine stuff and had been exposed to general room environment but is really impressive. Have to be careful free-handing or you create a micro (or morseo) bevel in no time. The edge is very crisp. I feel like this is much different than 1um on a leather strop (the lowest grit I can compare to).

I can't source the stuff I played with, anyone have a decent source for diamond lapping film/sheets that doesn't break the bank? HeavyHanded HeavyHanded ? @Obsessed with Edges ? D Diemaker ? @FortyTwoBlades ?
 
Eli Chaps said:
Was able to grab a small remnant of 0.5um diamond film. About 10"x2" I guess. This stuff is not PAS but rather has an adhesive backing. Stuck it to a piece of thicker, hard plastic and made things work and wow! Ran my Dexter Russell vegetable clever over it a few times and the results were immediately apparent.

This isn't even pristine stuff and had been exposed to general room environment but is really impressive. Have to be careful free-handing or you create a micro (or morseo) bevel in no time. The edge is very crisp. I feel like this is much different than 1um on a leather strop (the lowest grit I can compare to).

I can't source the stuff I played with, anyone have a decent source for diamond lapping film/sheets that doesn't break the bank? HeavyHanded HeavyHanded ? @Obsessed with Edges ? D Diemaker ? @FortyTwoBlades ?
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Outfit "fiber instrument sales" FIS has sheets for a good price, though their inventory can vary a bit.
 
I really like the 3M diamond films. The finer grits like 3, .5 and .1 micron do a nice job of polishing and getting the edge stupid sharp.

On my Edge Pro I've found that you can do edge trailing or leading, but they last a lot longer if you do edge trailing only. Edge leading they will get nicked to death in no time.

They also seem to work best dry. I've tried using them with soapy water or wd40, but dry seems to work best. Once they load up, WD40 and a microfiber cloth cleans them up nicely.
 
I use these from Amazon. They are extremely affordable and a much better buy than the pre-cut ones that already have adhesive on them. This is my tried-and-true process:
  1. Buy yourself some glass blanks and a can of spray adhesive from 3M.
  2. Spray a light coating of adhesive on a blank.
  3. Put the now sticky blank on the grit sheet of your choice, sticky side of the blank touching the shiny side of the sheet.
  4. Carefully cut around the blank.
You'll get many pieces out of each 8.5x11 sheet of lapping paper. Once you find what you like, you can invest in exactly the right ones from you, like this or this. These lapping papers seem to "only" come as fine as 60,000 grit (.3 micron), so if you want 100,000 grit or 200,00 grit, you'll need a strop and some diamond paste.

Edit: I use a KME, so that's why I'm talking about glass blanks and how you'll get so many pieces out of each sheet of lapping paper. I have no experience using lapping papers in free-hand sharpening.
 
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