Large balsa strop - dimensions and ideas?

[KC8QVO]

I am wanting to make a large balsa strop - like a 2" wide and 10" or so long. What would you consider to be a good working length?

I have made some balsa strops before with aluminum backing. I'm thinking of 1/8" or 3/16" thick for this one. For backing I want to use steel - maybe a couple layers of 1/4" with rubber feet so it is heavy and sturdy.

My idea with the plates is to use counter-sunk machine bolts so they are flush to allow the balsa to lay flat over top. Glue would probably be epoxy. Considering that carbon steel rusts I would paint it, maybe primer on both plates first, then assemble, and then final coat. It won't be getting wet, at least not on purpose (like a stone holder), so I don't think rust would be much of an issue over time.

So my main question is on the length, but if you have other comments I'd be interested to hear.

 

[awestib]

I found a 2 x 8" is perfect for my needs. The local Tandy Leather sells leather strips in 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5 etc. and I found the 2 most suited. Also, most of the strops I bought seem to have 2 or 2.5" width so I can glue the new strips right on it. I have experimented with Balsa a bit and although I did not really find it superior in any way compared to proper prepped leather strop, in theory the Balsa does have some give (probably as much as a good leather) but does not rebound I guess? I will experiment with some Bass wood too, even less give/harder than Balsa.

Why do you want to use steel and not a nicely finished 2x4" plank cut to your needs? Brings the strop up enough in height and is so easy to finish, sand it etc. You can treat it with Tru-oil or something and give it a nice finish and glue the Balsa right on. I would use contact cement for this. It is probably heavy enough too that way.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

May not need to build up the base so heavily, unless you really want to. My best strops have always been the simplest, as it turns out; the one I've been using the most is denim on an extra-long Home Depot paint-stirring stick. It's about 21" long, including the 'handle', with about 17-1/2" of stropping length (~1-1/2" width). I've grown to like the extra length, as it allows a more free-flowing, sweeping pass over the denim. I just hold the handle in one hand, and brace the lower end against whatever's convenient, and use it more or less like a barber's strop. My '2nd most favorite' strop was built with some linen cut from an old shirt, over a piece of scrap plywood. For the sake of the blade's edge, most all that's needed is a substrate that embeds compound very well (denim, linen, some leathers, some woods) over a very firm or hard backing. Everything else that's built into a strop is likely just for the sake of the user's own preferences (ergonomics, looks, etc.).

As mentioned, a simpler block of wood could be used for the base. To keep it from sliding around, some 'tacky' rubber drawer liner material works pretty well for that, just placed as a mat under the block. Could also just use the rubber 'feet' you mentioned, on the block. There are also some rubber tapes made for such purposes; you can apply strips of it to the bottom of the block. I used some of that on an older oak strop block of mine, and it worked well.

For a wood strop, my preference is for basswood, instead of balsa. It's a bit firmer, smoother and tighter-grained, and won't 'indent' or deform under pressure like the softer balsa will do. Basswood is also inexpensive; maybe even cheaper than balsa. It can be found at Hobby Lobby or perhaps other crafting/model shops, and is pre-cut in sizes perfect for stropping.


David

 

[KC8QVO]

Thanks for the info.

In regards to the Basswood - I have some, but I haven't used it. When I cut the strips I found that there were some parts of the grain that were very hard compared to the rest of the wood. I didn't like that and thought overall the balsa was going to turn out better being softer. Maybe it would be worth trying though.

I do have some diamond spray I use with my strops. I will have to see what micron level it is, I know it is pretty small but not not the smallest - maybe 1 or 2 micron.

The strop I use the most is built on to a blank for use on an Edge Pro system I have. However, my regular fixed blade is a Bark River Bravo Necker II with a convex edge. I can't sharpen it on the edge pro, I use a set of DMT 4" stones with it and end up using the balsa strop on a table top with a non-slip mat to finish it off. It works pretty well. For home sharpening I'd like to have something bigger and more robust.

That having been said, I think the 2x4 method is a decent idea but I don't think I can get the mass I am looking for with the block of wood. Maybe if I combined the wood block with the steel base, but not with just the wood.