Large Re-Curve CPM 3V Camp Knife - Critique Welcomed

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Dave Behrens

Dave Behrens

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Damn me I forgot to get the measurements of this before I sent it to the customer.

OAL: Around 14"
Blade: 8" ish
Thickness: .275" at tang, tapered to around 3/16" at 1" behind point
Full height convex grind

Orange G10 scales w/ .06 Forest green G10, and 1/8" Black G10 liners, stainless pins, w/ mosaic pin(center pin), stainless lanyard tube

Leather sheath - hand stitched, can be carried tracker style, drop-leg or cross-draw

All critiques encouraged. Thanks for looking.
 
Does it need the snap keeper, as deep as it is?

Great work though, looks like a real beast of a chopper.
 
I like the blade shape. The size is about perfect for a general use camp knife, IMHO and that one looks really handy......bet it balances out well.

The only thing I would have liked would be a choil, but those are subjective as to who likes them and who doesn't.

I really like the recurve though, not ridiculous but gives it some nice character.

I also like the handle, looks like it will chop well and provide good grip. Orange isn't my thing, but I know that many around here like it...so that's personal and not in any way material to the fit/function of this knife (which looks supurb, I'd be happy with it if it were my purchase).
 
liamstrain said:
Does it need the snap keeper, as deep as it is?

Great work though, looks like a real beast of a chopper.
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On an easy hike probably not. But if you jumped around enough it could probably fall out. I just wanted to err on the side of Retention OCD, and Paranoia.
 
next time around, I'd consider losing some of that beak at the butt of the handle in favor of dropping the end of the handle down a bit. Even a few degrees can add a lot of power. For a 'camp' knife, a handle in line with the blade makes sense, and moreso when the edge is relatively flat/straight. The recurve is more useful in a bush clearing/chopper tool, and the best way to maximize that capability is to angle the handle down some.

have any pics of the handle before the slabs were installed?
 
Lorien said:
next time around, I'd consider losing some of that beak at the butt of the handle in favor of dropping the end of the handle down a bit. Even a few degrees can add a lot of power. For a 'camp' knife, a handle in line with the blade makes sense, and moreso when the edge is relatively flat/straight. The recurve is more useful in a bush clearing/chopper tool, and the best way to maximize that capability is to angle the handle down some.

have any pics of the handle before the slabs were installed?
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Thanks Lorien. The handle is slightly offset to the blade, the angle did look and feel steeper in person than from the photo, if I duplicate this design I would definitely take your suggestions into consideration, I would be curious to note the differences in feel and function with the slight changes.
 
Looks like a compact Bolo/Barong to me. The handle looks comfy and extended for reach. Could have use another lanyard hole near the neck for better purchase.
 
Like Lorien I wonder about the length of the "beak." I think that for chopping a shorter but more curved section could also be more useful than the longer straight one you used, something like an aggressive hoof similar to old-school axe handles if you know what I mean. Combined with more overall handle angle it could really up the chopping feel. Everything else looks cherry, I really like the subtle curvature and finish on the blade.
 
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