Large Sebenza 31 MagnaCut / Box Elder

Joined
Feb 5, 2013
Messages
557
a short video of the 31 Box Elder Burl scales


G2
That's a beautiful knife! The wood has a great pattern and color. Also, the edge bevel grind looks perfect and even. You can tell it's new based on how stiff the action looks. For being so new, the lockup is rather deep. I know... the ball on the end and that's how CRK does it... But, that one would bother me, its going to move a little more breaking in. I have about 20 CRK and my wood inlays nearly always locked up the latest. Only one I ever sent back in 15 years was an ebony the was 90% or more on the very first open!
 
Thanks, it was opened slow and deliberate, mainly because I was looking through the camera and trying not to slice myself up ;) but, that one opens very very smoothly. The lockup makes it secure but I don't know how soon it would move over any more, depends on usage I'm sure...
G2

PS, oops too much conversation but I see that a mod was kind enough to create a separate thread instead, many thanks to whoever helped ;)
 
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The lock up looked normal to me, but it was never in frame for long. I'd be interested to see the track left by the ceramic ball on the blade tang. Regardless, I think the question of lock up percentage matters less with the ceramic interface than it would with, say, a 21. Or am I wrong about that?
 
The lock up looked normal to me, but it was never in frame for long. I'd be interested to see the track left by the ceramic ball on the blade tang. Regardless, I think the question of lock up percentage matters less with the ceramic interface than it would with, say, a 21. Or am I wrong about that?
No, you’re not wrong about that. The lock bar on the 21 is the indicator of the percentage when it engaged. You can’t go by the position of the lock bar with CRK’s that have the ceramic ball lock face. You have to look at the blade tang to see it.
This is one of my 25’s, the lock bar shows 65% lock up ???, but the ceramic ball on the steel is showing 50%

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It would take a hundred years of normal use for that ceramic ball to wear down that ramp on the lock face. You're more likely to exhaust the sharpening life of the blade first.
 
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I don't own a 31 so I'm going off disassembly videos and images.

The lock should not solely be judged where it hits the blade tang. A lock bar is "done" when it can't move over any more for whatever reason.

The 31 ball is proud forwards and to the inside of the bar tip. The ball will be what hits the show scale. Once the ball hits the other side the lock can't go over any more.

I think on the 31, the ball can be maxed out hitting the other side and still be on the blade. So, it's not just where the ball hits the blade.


Maybe try taking the blade out and letting the bar move over. It should touch the other side with no blade installed. This would be the maximum lockup before lock rock. Where is the forward face of the ball when the lateral side is touching?

How much farther does it move with no blade... that's what's left guys.


Also, I'm sure it will last a long time. I'm also sure I'm picky. It's easy to get one not so deep so I try to get what I like.
 
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