Laser Engraving

Joined
Jan 10, 2011
Messages
1,448
I have a customer who wants his brother's name put on the blade. If I were to take the knife to a trophy shop and have them engrave the name do you see any problems arising? Or is there a fellow knife maker that you know of that can make a single stencil?

Thanks,

Nick
 
I am in this predicament as well. I am going to try the photo paper method later tonight to try and etch the mark. I have the stencil printed out and just need to see if I can get it to transfer and stick to the blade. I'll let you know how I get along!

Chris
 
Last edited:
You can get a custom single name stencil for a great price at Blue Lightning Stencils by Ernie Grospitch. I used this service once for a customer and was impressed. He makes all of my stencils. link ---> http://www.erniesknives.com/Customer's Personal Stencil Addition.html

Here's a pic, the stencil was to commemorate a yearly hike made by a group of friends. Ti Bottle Opener Knives made a ways back...

050-4.jpg
 
Last edited:
You can also get the stencil paper in a roll. You type/write/draw on it with a cover sheet and then use the stencil as normal. Look at the etching supplies in the catalogs. It is supplied as a tractor feed roll ( but you don't need a printer to use it).
http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/ecsr3.htm
 
Last edited:
I didn't have any luck getting the photo paper stencil to work. I couldn't get the ink to stick to the blade without the glossy film of the paper sticking as well. Then when I tried to peel the film off of course the majority of the ink came with it. I think I will end up using the print out as a scratch guide and use fingernail polish as the resist. The worst that could happen is I have to grind it back out. We shall see!

A while back Eric (lucycustomknives) was talking about making a tutorial on how to make stencils using photoreactive material. I wonder if that is similar to how the professionally made stencils are made....

Chris
 
The roll stencil I am linking to isn't a photo paper...it is just a one or two shot stencil paper. You place it in a typewriter with a backing piece of paper and with the ribbon removed ( or an old tractor feed, daisy wheel printer with the ribbon removed) and type the needed words. The blue resist will come off on the backing paper in the places that were impacted. Cut off the stencil from the roll and use it with your etcher as normal.
If not using a typewriter, just use a smooth tip stylus of some sort. A small ball tip leather word detail tool works fine, as does a piece of round nylon, wood, etc. Just shape like a pencil with a smooth and round tip. The styli that you use to write on tablet devices work great. Temporarily tape the stencil to a piece of printer paper and write the mark wanted with the stylus. Lift off the stencil and the unwanted resist stays behind on the paper, creating the mark on the stencil.
The third way to make the stencil is to place a strip of printer paper over the stencil as well as the piece under it. Write or draw on the top paper with a ball point pen ( use heavy pressure). The roll has 20 feet, so you can practice all you want until you get it down. This material is great for a single use mark or drawing a simple logo. You can also make a signature mark well with this material. The stencils will make about five knives at the most.
 
Years ago, I bought a knife for my dad from a Iraqi vendor while I was in country. It was a large bowie with a falcon head handle that represented my tours there. I took it to a trophy shop and had the blade engraved with the dates of my tours. The blade was 440 and truthfully, I have no idea how they did the engraving but, it came out pretty nice.

Bob
 
I talked to ernie. It was $8 for the custom stencil. Not a bad deal. Does anyone know how much the laser engraving cost?
 
I posted this too in the etch-o-matic thread. I am closing in on results that I would call professional... Below is the speedball emulsion on fine mesh. I have since discovered an emulsion sheet that works much better and is far more crisp. It can also be applied directly to the steel and then exposed. The benefit of the screenprinting stuff is you can use a positive image. The PCB stuff and the photoreactive film usually takes a reverse image.

Sorry I have been busy. Not meaning to hang bait out there and not follow through. On my pintrest page (bugchucker) I have the series of photos for this stencil. The Ryocap sheets work much better and I will get a series done with those ASAP.


3de777036e6e8cc78195ba094a2e1533.jpg


The pin-roll stuff Stacy is describing is also easy to use. You can print off a design, lay the design over the stencil material and then use a stylus to transfer it through. It takes some practice, but it works well. Or find an old dot matrix printer and use it...

-Eric
 
Back
Top