Laser or water cut shurikens

B

bat1

Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
11
Greetings,
I am new to the site. My main interests related to blades are homemade throwing stars. Lots of fun to throw. I have a design with a lot of tight curves toward the center that I have made by hand but it takes forever to grind out and really chews through my dremel bits. I would like to do a small run using a laser cutter. Maybe up to 6 individual 4 inch stars. I have a DXF file ready to go. can anyone recommend cutting services that would be low cost, that would also do this low of volume. I figure the HAZ is not a big issue with stars that will be thrown for fun until the points get too bent to really work well. I do not have the equipment to put fine edges on them just an angle grinder, and can't heat treat them.
Thanks,
Tommy
 
During my misspent youth, I just cut them via Beverly Shear. Sharpened by forging points sharp & water quench got some amount hardness into them.
Thinking of it now, despite the fun, kinda stupid since cutting elaborate Ninja designs were not possible...
 
There is nothing "low cost" about what you want done.

I suggest looking if there is a hobby club in the area where you can join and use their equipment or hire a member to make them for you.
 
Water Jet is cheap and fast. You wont likely get the fine detail you're hoping for but it will do most of what you will want in about 15 seconds per star.

Call a few local shops and know what you want so you don't waste their time. Machine shops hate that. Or just send your DXF by email and ask for a quote. Don't say anything about throwing star or they probably wont take you seriously.

Are you planning on supplying material or are they just going to use any old steel they have?
 
Thanks guys.
I have been making my stars out of 1/8 inch 1075 spring steel I got from Mcmaster carr. I still have enough to do about 8 stars. My idea of affordable would be 5$ a star since I easily do that in consumables every time I grind one out. dremel bits/ sanding discs. I know some have been able to get waterjet for around 10$ a blank whick I may be willing to consider.
 
At a pro shop your setup costs won't make your project equitable for a run of 8 stars. better to find a local club and hopema member that is generous has a small cnc plasma cutter to help you out with.
 
If you're serious, don't overlook the feasibility of outsourcing to China. Most US based companies only want to do 5000+ pieces. Contact Lena at Foshan Bo Jun, she's good and very reasonable. I've done small orders of 10 parts up to 3000 parts with her. Send her your requirements and ask what the price breaks are. That will give you an idea how much 10, 50, 100, etc. will cost.

I've got to say that the workmanship with her company is excellent, better than what I've had done locally and at about 1/4 the price.


Foshan Bo Jun Precision Sheet Metal Co.
Lena Leung <lenaleung1019 AT 126.com>
 
I have done hundreds of laser-cut stars and and can provide blanks for you.

1095 or 1075 sheet from McMaster Carr is the way to go. Check out the prices there. In the past I've used 1/8" for most designs and 0.075" (14g) for senban because it is historically accurate.
 
For a run that small, you'd probably be lucky to pay $20-$30 per piece, possibly more.

Why use 1075 if you're not going to heat treat?
 
Patrick,
I tried getting a quote yesterday but am having trouble converting my Sketup file to DXF. I have had several items converted to STL and then 3d printed but Sketchup files and DXF don't seem to play well. I give you a buzz when I get a working file
-Tommy
 
Cutting unlimited in Richland PA. Send it to them for a quote and report back here when you get a price. I bet your looking at sub $10 a piece if you supply the material.
 
bat1 said:
Patrick,
I tried getting a quote yesterday but am having trouble converting my Sketup file to DXF. I have had several items converted to STL and then 3d printed but Sketchup files and DXF don't seem to play well. I give you a buzz when I get a working file
-Tommy
Click to expand...

They make a plugin for that. A simple google search of Sketchup to DXF will show you a number of them, typically free.
 
Pleasant hill I have tried two methods I found in searches and both turned out poorly. I look for a plugin
Thanks,
Tommy
 
Send me a email of the sketch up design. My friend has a plasma cutter and is just starting up his business. He may be willing to entertain it. My email is tlghostman@gmail.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Another option for fabricating short runs in metal 1/8" or less thick is a pattern following nibbler like a Trace-a-punch. You don't even need a drawing, just a pattern in a firm enough material to rub against the punch. The steel would have to be in the annealed state, and the punch diameter does need to be several times the material thickness, which limits how small slots and internal radius corners can be. It's an uncommon tool, but if a machine shop near you has one, it's worth having them look at your drawing or sample
 
bat1 said:
Patrick,
I tried getting a quote yesterday but am having trouble converting my Sketup file to DXF. I have had several items converted to STL and then 3d printed but Sketchup files and DXF don't seem to play well. I give you a buzz when I get a working file
-Tommy
Click to expand...

I can open/convert an old version of Sketch-up. If you export to the oldest version possible (circa 2010) I can work with that. I can also open/convert STL, STP, and a few other solid model formats.

Also I have a library of pre-drawn CAD knives and stars here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B85zdfA8boN6bkVWV29yWWZLLW8
 
Soooo shurikens... You know that they are just 4 pointed nails right? That's why plate shuriken had the shape that they did, rough squares with a "half moon" cut out of each side. Not heat treated and generally a throw away weapon of distraction.
Seems kind of a waste to spend a bunch of money on something you're probably going to loose anyway.
Anyway, sorry for the rant!

On the technical side of things, try not to have too many points on your design. More than 6 and they start to roll when they hit the target, fewer than 4 they tend to not hit point on and not penetrate.


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