Latest folder design, also looking for folder odds & ends

Chiro75

Chiro75

Joined
Feb 4, 1999
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Any comments? I got rid of the dual finger notch design ala Strider, to come up with this. Very basic, but I think it will make a good knifge if I can get it from paper into reality! The pivot will be 7/32", the stop pin and the middle spacer pin will be 3/16" stainless steel precision ground dowel rod material, and the rear spacer will be 1/4" OD stainless steel with a 2-56 screw through it, tapped into the other scale. Scales will be 0.09" 6Al/4V titanium, and once it's all together then I'll make a judgement about scales, if any. I'm waiting on my shipment from MSC, then it's time to play (well, once I get my bandsaw and blade, too). Also thumbstud from Koval's, washers from KnifeKits... I wish one place had it ALL! :D
 

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what program are you using to draw with. i play with photoshop but would like to rotate the blade to see the open/closed fitment.
sorry if the ? is off topic
thanks
butch
 
I would print this up, cut it out, and stick a pin in your pivot points and make sure it works. My concern is how close the detent is to the edge of the lock face. There might not be enough room to keep the ball in when you cut out the lock. It also looks like the lock might fall off of the blade when it's closed halfway. Remember- measure twice cut once. If it dosen't work in paper it won't work in steel.
 
I use Adobe Illustrator for these graphics. It's really awesome because it has a rotation tool that you can set the "pivot" point that the object rotates on. So, I make my blade shape, click on it, then click on the rotate tool, set the pivot at the center of the actual pivot pin, and I can spin it 360° to check the movement of everything.

Striper, on the computer it actually works (detent ball stays put), but it's close. If you look at the tang you'll see it's pretty long. What I figured I'd do is use Peter Atwood's method: drill pivot and stop pin location, but leave a little extra on the tang. Then I can dial in the final lock location on the tang and the detent ball location. There is plenty of room on the tang and handle to lengthen the lock portion (on the handle, shorten it on the tang), to bring the detent ball closer to the pivot, which will work great, then.
 
striper28 said:
I would print this up, cut it out, and stick a pin in your pivot points and make sure it works. My concern is how close the detent is to the edge of the lock face. There might not be enough room to keep the ball in when you cut out the lock. It also looks like the lock might fall off of the blade when it's closed halfway. Remember- measure twice cut once. If it dosen't work in paper it won't work in steel.
Click to expand...

I agree on the detent ball being moved back..
but the lock looks ok to me..close but OK.

using paper is a good inexpensive way to do it..if you don't have cad or something to operate it. :)

I need to set my clock or something this post should have been before your last post steve :mad: :)
 
Steve if you want to tighten up the lock later after it's been wearing some
you may want the ball back out of the way some also .. :)
 
What Dan said, anouther point on moving the detent back, I messed up the first folder I messed with by putting the detent too close and when setting it it split the Ti.
 
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