Latest sheaths. Looking for feedback

[groy87]

These guys represent a lot of firsts for me but in the end I am very pleased with how they came out. Thanks again everyone for your advice on my previous 'recommendations,' threads! Without your help these sheaths would not have turned out half as good as they did!

Comments and critiques welcome.

Leather: Dyed vegetable tanned skirting (7/8 oz)
Lining: Deer skin remnants (I realized after I bought the material that this version of deer hide was very different than what is typically used but I was able to adapt it to my used with a few extra steps....and a lot of skiving ).
Finish: Acrylic Resolene


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[sheathmaker]

Those sheaths are technically very good, but you seem to be in a rut for design. It appears they might accommodate "any" knife if the blade length and/or over all length fits certain parameters, instead of being made and fitted for the particular knife they carry. I am not saying this is a bad thing, because there is a definite market out there for "generic" and Tree Stump Leather is a glowing and successful example of that. Chart your course and go for it!

Paul

 

[groy87]

Those sheaths are technically very good, but you seem to be in a rut for design. It appears they might accommodate "any" knife if the blade length and/or over all length fits certain parameters, instead of being made and fitted for the particular knife they carry. I am not saying this is a bad thing, because there is a definite market out there for "generic" and Tree Stump Leather is a glowing and successful example of that. Chart your course and go for it!

Paul

Thanks for the feedback Paul.

Design wise yes, these sheath are not very unique. In fact the core design if you will is identical for all four. They are fitted for each knife but my aim was to work on improving the the fundamentals: stitching, stamping, lining, dealing with varying handle thicknesses w/ welt design, etc...

There are a lot of intricate designs (many based on sheaths you've made ) I want to try to incorporate while while finding my personal style but as you said "If it isn't perfect then it isn't good enough," and I need to be able to nail the basic before I can make a complex design truly good enough.

Thanks again for all of your input. If you have any additional comments, critiques, or general pointers I'm all ears.

 

[sheathmaker]

Groy, the quality of those sheaths belies your novice standing. They are really very well done, particularly for someone new at the game. Everyone has to crawl before they walk and walk before they run. I appreciate and admire your attitude and to that end if there is anything you think I can help you with, I am here for you. All my contact information is below this post and you should feel free to contact me privately any time for any help you feel I can offer.

Paul

 

[Salolan]

The first thing I saw was the stitch line just below the fold over of the lining. What purpose is it serving? Does the lining stop at that point on the inside or is it one of the extra steps you mentioned?
I'd round of the point of the sheath a little. On user sheaths points like that get smashed and trashed.
The only other thing is the spacing between the edge/stitch line and stitch line/tooling seems to wander a bit. Did you establish the stitch line prior to truing up the edges?
All in all, great job! I still haven't tried the geometric stamps myself. How did you like it?

Chris

 

[groy87]

Gory, the quality of those sheaths belies your novice standing. They are really very well done, particularly for someone new at the game. Everyone has to crawl before they walk and walk before they run......

Paul

Thank you Paul. That truly means a lot. I will definitely take you up on that down the line. As for now practice, practice, practice.

The first thing I saw was the stitch line just below the fold over of the lining. What purpose is it serving? Does the lining stop at that point on the inside or is it one of the extra steps you mentioned?
I'd round of the point of the sheath a little. On user sheaths points like that get smashed and trashed.
The only other thing is the spacing between the edge/stitch line and stitch line/tooling seems to wander a bit. Did you establish the stitch line prior to truing up the edges?
All in all, great job! I still haven't tried the geometric stamps myself. How did you like it?

Chris

Thanks Chris!

The stitch below the fold over of the lining is meant as additional retention to keep the lining attached to the exterior leather. This way the lining will never come loose from the leather, especially around the mouth as time goes on. A little tip I picked up from Paul's DVDs. Its time consuming especially since I stitch everything by hand but it's the little details.

Thanks for the pointer on the tip.

I true up the edges after I glue the sheath together and then establish the stitch line. My error was trying to true up the entire edge of the sheath at once on my belt sander (length of sheath parallel to the belt). The sheath extended past the edge of the platten and a pocket of material got removed. I didn't catch this until after I grooved the stitch line and at that point there was no going back. From now on I will be truing my edges by lightly running the edge of the sheath perpendicular to the belt. This way I can avoid the issue above and minimize the risk of the belt loading up too quickly and burning the leather.

I love the geometric stamps, especially the basket weave. With a little practice you can get a clean interesting look. Plus side is to play around and experiment with making different patterns with the stamps like Paul's arrow head pattern made from a basket weave stamp . I'd recommend grabbing a bunch when they go on sale at Tandy. I believe the next one will be around April.

-Garrett