Lawn mower "blades"

C

Cattaraugus225

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Aug 5, 2022
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It may be the oddest request on this forum, but am trying to find out if anyone has had experience with any really good brands? I have some "lawn" but most of what I cut in in an area with lots of trees, which means roots pop up in different places every time I mow and I find them by cutting them. I use a 48"/24 hp, 3 blade lawn tractor and cut maybe three to four acres at a whack. The blades I use wear out very quickly, perhaps every four passes through the "rough." The tips of the blades wear out, leaving uncut strip with every pass. Perhaps I need a set of unobtanium blades, but they don't list them on Amazon. I know that I "need" a bush hog, but I ain't shelling out for a tractor. Good blades anyone?
 
It's probably not the oddest request (this is the internet...), but it's a pretty long ways outside the usual things that we dispense knowledge(opinions) on.

42Blades/Baryonyx Knife & Tool is the first person I can think of who might even be qualified to speak on the subject.

I think the difference is going to be in things that aren't hardly ever listed on the packaging: steel grade, and finished Rockwell hardness.

You could maybe try some of the more reputable lawnmower blade manufacturers, and see if they'll actually tell you what SAE/AISI number they use, instead of just "the finest quality steel, hand-selected for the finest-quality blades!" Or some such hogwash. Ideally, you want S2 or S7, but 5160 is pretty tough, too.

My guess is that most grass reapers are using "10XX" steel, something like a 1040 with a lot of "tough", and not that much "hard". The tip speed is what generates most of the cutting action, and metallurgy is mostly just about keeping them from exploding when they hit a rock.
 
I have made several blades from mower blades and many of them do not hold up. But I have a 54 in cub cadet or had and I purchased Oregon blades for them. They are just shy of a 1/4" thick and they have made some of the toughest knives I have ever made without a doubt. I have a little drop point hunter I made about 5 or 6 years ago and I have used it for everything from a can opener to slicing tomatoes and it holds a edge very well. I have had a few other mystery blades that was off a commercial mower that held up too. But those Oregon was the best blades I ever used. I have a bowie I made from another of its blades that I have chopped down small trees with and abused and the same thing. So I really do think it depends on the blade and manufacture.

I looked them up on the web to see if it told the grade steel.. It states they are made of boron steel. I was not sure what that is but I looked it up and it is added to high carbon steel to make more hardenable and add wear resistant. Wiki states that it is used in tool steels and it Boron is added to the shackles of padlocks to make them more cut resistant. For real they made some awesome blades. I still have another 3 blades I intend on making a few more blades out of.
 
I have heard that boron is added to forklift forks to make them less brittle and bend before breaking. I would expect that you don't want lawnmower blades breaking too.
 
Have you tried asking this guy?

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I would go for the Spyderco Magnacut version, I think it cuts better than the S30V version they did a few years ago. Plus it's more corrosion resistant which is always a concern on a $350 lawnmower blade.
I sharpened mine to a 15 degree edge with a 20 degree microbevel. Finished it off with a stropped edge (of course)!
It was a sprint run, so good luck finding one. Maybe wait for the 15V version they'll probably do later this year.



Sypderco Mower Blade.png
 
Macchina said:
I would go for the Spyderco Magnacut version, I think it cuts better than the S30V version they did a few years ago. Plus it's more corrosion resistant which is always a concern on a $350 lawnmower blade.
I sharpened mine to a 15 degree edge with a 20 degree microbevel. Finished it off with a stropped edge (of course)!
It was a sprint run, so good luck finding one. Maybe wait for the 15V version they'll probably do later this year.



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Click to expand...
I have Cold Steel version in CPM-3V with DLC coating. It also comes with secure-ex sheath that dulls it.
 
There could be a few factors causing this. Is it sandy soil?, and what style blade are you using -some lift to mulch but can wear fast. Try to miss some of the roots and stumps
You can google for the best blades available.
 
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Get yourself a set of heavy duty mulching blades. I got a set for my JD zero turn, and they go a long time between sharpenings. The blades are a lot thicker and heavier than the OEM blades.
Do you sharpen your own blades? When resharpening, try using less of an angle, say instead of 30° try 40°. The edge will last longer and be less prone to being rounded off.
 
Peter Hartwig said:
There could be a few factors causing this. Is it sandy soil?, and what style blade are you using -some lift to mulch but can wear fast. Try to miss some of the roots and stumps
You can google for the best blades available.
Click to expand...
yep and depends on the grass type too. the bahia grass and seed stalks eats blade sharpness quickly, compared to st. augustine, zoysia or bermuda. I'm taking florida grasses....dont know other types that don't grow here......
 
This sounds like a good idea for a project farm video! Anyone know that dude? His stuff is great.
 
Peter Hartwig said:
There could be a few factors causing this. Is it sandy soil?, and what style blade are you using -some lift to mulch but can wear fast. Try to miss some of the roots and stumps
You can google for the best blades available.
Click to expand...
Hi, I don't know what you mean. Did you quote the wrong post?
 
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