Learning Curves: KME vs Wicked Edge

[BD_01]

Hi folks,

I’m pretty sure there is a precision guided system in my future. I’ve spent some time with a buddy’s EPA and it’s not for me, so it’ll be a WE or KME.

Does anyone have input on which system will be easier/faster to master? And perhaps why that is?

Thanks in advance!

 

[CasePeanut]

I had the same question recently. I ended up with a KME because of cost. I'm pretty happy with the decision. No doubt that the Wicked Edge is a better overall system, but I had a hard time justifying the additional cost.

I will say that the KME (or maybe its me) has a hard time with consistent angles on blades around 9 inches or longer. There are some tricks and hacks but it is a little fiddly. Depending on the knife, it may be pretty tricky to go lower than 11-12 DPS. I haven't tried a WE on these types of knives.

I am still using a combination of the sharpmaker and bench stones for kitchen cutlery and touchups. The KME is great for reprofiling, folders and mirror polishing

 

[Bladegunner]

I tried most guided systems including the Russian one and ended up with the WE. I have heard there were some issues with the clamp on the previous versions. The newest one which I have is awesome very easy and perfectly vertical blades. I wish the diamond plates were a bit longer and there were aftermarket diamonds available.

 

[bonzodog]

I had a w/e but couldn’t get on with it,now have a KME great piece of kit imho.

 

[aleforme]

I have a WE 130. Not cheap by any means but the clamp makes clamping just about any blade shape crazy east.

I've had the WE 130 for a few months now and I love it. Took about 2 or 3 cheap knives to get the hang of it but once you get the feel for it, it's super easy. The thing I really like the most is having two stones and working each side at the same time. You're also able to lock everything down with zero play/wobble in the base, clamp or knife.

I have the 100/200, 400/600 and 800/1000 grit diamond stones and just bought the 1500 Diamond, Micro Ceramic stones and some strops. Haven't used them yet though. The WE Diamonds are very good. It took a few knives to break them in but they are coming along nicely. Very high quality.

If you can swing the expense, I highly recommend the WE.

 

[cbwx34]

Hi folks,

...so it’ll be a WE or KME.

Does anyone have input on which system will be easier/faster to master? And perhaps why that is?

Thanks in advance!

Based on your criteria I'd say KME for a couple of reasons... it's a more "natural" sharpening position (if that makes sense), and it's easier to see what you're doing.

That's my vote.

 

[BD_01]

Thanks everyone!

I would love to hear more input from the croud. This part of the forum is always informative and helpful.

If I go WE, it’ll be the 130. I’m an all or nothing type.
Expense is a consideration of course, but not the primary one.
Most of my sharpening will be with blades 4” and smaller.
I don’t see myself going below 15 dps.

I haden’t thought about the position/motion of the KME being more natural, as said by cbwx34 , but that makes sense.

aleforme , your input about locking things down with no wobble is also food for thought; a VERY good thought.

bonzodog , what was your conflict with the WE?

 

[FuelBoat]

I have the Field and Sport Pro for about a year and half. Very pleased with it, using it on my kitchen knives and my folders. I picked up a few knives at Goodwill to practice on and to break in the stones. I have the scissor attachment which I have used a few times. Get a good angle gauge and a microscope to help with your sharpening. Have also done my yard pruners with it. For what I wanted to do I felt it was the best choice for me. I looked at the WE, KME and Sharpmaker at the Blade Show in Atlanta a couple of years ago, it was good to see them in real life. I had 3 knives of the same model and each company sharpened one for me.

 

[JD Spydo]

I've been taking a very serious look at these advanced sharpening systems like the "Edge Pro", "Wicked Edge", "KME", Hapstone ect, ect. But I've yet to determine which one or if even any of them can take on blades with curves. I own several Hawkbills, Spyderco's Reverse S blades, Recurves and very unusual designs like Spyderco's Captain model for instance. So I guess my question is this and I believe it sort of correlates with this thread>> Which system would do me the best with all these curved blades I have in my arsenal? So far I've been doing most of my sharpening on these curved blades with manual type sharpening tools. One tool which has worked for me is Spyderco's 701 Profile kit.

But of all these advanced sharpening systems I've wondered which one of them could accommodate blades with a lot of curve in them?

 

[PeterS84]

I've been taking a very serious look at these advanced sharpening systems like the "Edge Pro", "Wicked Edge", "KME", Hapstone ect, ect. But I've yet to determine which one or if even any of them can take on blades with curves. I own several Hawkbills, Spyderco's Reverse S blades, Recurves and very unusual designs like Spyderco's Captain model for instance. So I guess my question is this and I believe it sort of correlates with this thread>> Which system would do me the best with all these curved blades I have in my arsenal? So far I've been doing most of my sharpening on these curved blades with manual type sharpening tools. One tool which has worked for me is Spyderco's 701 Profile kit.

But of all these advanced sharpening systems I've wondered which one of them could accommodate blades with a lot of curve in them?

Personally I'd be looking very seriously at the Edge Pro based on what you've said. The EP offers 1/2 stones for dealing with recurves; if your knives aren't high vanadium alloys, the AlOx stones that EP offers will do the job quite well I imagine.

 

[aleforme]

Thanks everyone!

I would love to hear more input from the croud. This part of the forum is always informative and helpful.

If I go WE, it’ll be the 130. I’m an all or nothing type.
Expense is a consideration of course, but not the primary one.
Most of my sharpening will be with blades 4” and smaller.
I don’t see myself going below 15 dps.

I haden’t thought about the position/motion of the KME being more natural, as said by cbwx34 , but that makes sense.

aleforme , your input about locking things down with no wobble is also food for thought; a VERY good thought.

bonzodog , what was your conflict with the WE?

The 130's clamp/vise is incredibly easy to use. The new cam design will lock down on full flat grinds with ease. Takes seconds. I haven't used the KME or EP but my understanding is some adjustment and tweaks are needed to get a full flat grind or knives with no flats to sit right? Not 100% sure though.

 

[BD_01]

I’ve heard that about the 130’s clamp, which is probably my strongest incentive to buy it.
The stability issues of the WE are a strong positive, but I don’t have the bench space to leave something set up for long periods...so I’m trying to mentally balance that against the easier setup and storage of the KME (at least as I see it).

Can anyone tell me if the KME clamp is self centering or how it works with full flat grinds like the PM2?

 

[cbwx34]

I’ve heard that about the 130’s clamp, which is probably my strongest incentive to buy it.
The stability issues of the WE are a strong positive, but I don’t have the bench space to leave something set up for long periods...so I’m trying to mentally balance that against the easier setup and storage of the KME (at least as I see it).

Can anyone tell me if the KME clamp is self centering or how it works with full flat grinds like the PM2?

The KME clamp is self-centering... you do have to fiddle with it a bit though on some knives. Haven't used the new WE version... but from videos, looks pretty easy to use.

W.E. also makes a "Field and Sport Pro" version of the WE 130... if setup and storage is an issue for you, might take a look at that.

 

[CasePeanut]

KME is self centering. Good tips in the manual about grabbing the blade and the clamp at the same time to automatically self center.

Works fine with FFG. There is some fiddling, but you have to do that with any clamping system, right? Especially if you want to be picky and use an angle cube for precise measurements.