Learning slip joints

[BMknives21]

I made my first slip joint I noticed excessive rubbing on the tang to the liners I do not have a mill to make reliefs. Are washers a decent option?

 

[Bill DeShivs]

It's to be expected. I wouldn't use washers, myself.

 

[Hengelo_77]

I use washers and have the spring thicker than the blade.
I use 0.1mm bronze washers

 

[AVigil]

Do you have a surface grinder? You will need to decrease the blade thickness to allow for the washers

I saw a maker who would grind the blade thickness down on both sides to where the mark would be but not the tang behind the mark where the pivot is. This allowed for no rubs on the makers mark.

 

[BMknives21]

Do you have a surface grinder? You will need to decrease the blade thickness to allow for the washers

I saw a maker who would grind the blade thickness down on both sides to where the mark would be but not the tang behind the mark where the pivot is. This allowed for no rubs on the makers mark.

I watched a video of this today. I think this would be my best option without a surface grinder

 

[Drew Riley]

You might just want to use the brass liners. They'll still rub, but it won't be as noticeable.

 

[Hengelo_77]

I've relived bronze liners with a cut of disk in a dremel and hid the toolmarks by texturing the whole liner.

 

[BMknives21]

You might just want to use the brass liners. They'll still rub, but it won't be as noticeable.

Yes I agree until I get better I rather a softer liner like brass. I been following your tutorial from a couple years ago!

 

[BMknives21]

I've relived bronze liners with a cut of disk in a dremel and hid the toolmarks by texturing the whole liner.

I thought about using a dremel also I need to restock my dremel attachments

 

[ashwinearl]

This might be the video AVigil is referring to

https://www.facebook.com/groups/979133805438860/permalink/6611704892181695

Dwight Walker is the maker.

I believe you have a few choices 1) accept the scratches; 2) brass liners to somewhat mitigate scratches; 3) approach like the above or similar to imperceptibly grind the tang where it clears the liner, but is mostly unnoticeable to the user; 4) use bronze washers. I use 0.008" bronze washers I got from another maker. this requires precise thinning of the blade tang to be 0.016" thinner than the spring; 5) using a mill to relieve the liners

 

[Signalprick]

Personally I'd use washers until you can mill relieve. If you don't have a surface grinder then look to buy precision ground steel until you can get one. You can buy yourself a piece of tempered glass to surface finish your tang and spring to final thicknesses. I like to use sticky backed Rynowet paper on my surface plate. Even just starting out if your going to make custom slip joints with the hopes of getting people's attention to eventually buy from you then I'd find those labor intensive work arounds to keep improving your fit and finish until you can afford better tooling. No one wants a custom with a scratched up tang direct from the maker.