Learning to grind

[scotsmanspride]

Well very new to knifemaking. I have modified knives, handled blanks and think i am at the point of doing some stock removal work. Now i have been looking at buying something like 1095 to start with. However with current steel prices, would it be a smart bet to start off with a regular home depot type welding barstock to learn how to get angles and such? Or is this a waste. I dont want to actually do something, take my time and have it turn out decent enough for HT but cant because it is crap steel? Also FWIW i would consider myself a craftsperson who knows how to take my time with things. I made kilts as a living for several years and do alot of leatherwork now so i have learned patience.

Also i am working on a craftsman 2x42 with a drill press a dremel. I am very into convex, convex scandi and traditional scandi. What would be an easy first grind... And would it be best to start out with something small like a PSK knife or something like a bushcraft knife?

 

[lonepine]

After I decided I wanted to learn to make knives I spent the first summer filing away on haredware store mild steel, practicing. I don't recommend this because you will want to keep your first knife. Odds are it will turn out ugly, but there is a long and enduring tradition of ugly first knives. One big reason I used the hardware store steel was because I didn't know what sort of steel I could/should use, nor where I could get it. It's my understanding that hardware store steel is usually 1018 steel containing only .18% carbon.

If you plan to send your blade out for heat treating you can use whatever steel your heat treater can deal with. If you will be doing your own heat treating then the recommendation is typically 1080 steel. Read the stick at the beginning about Working the Three Steel Types. It will help.

Get some decent steel and make your ugly first knife. You will think it's wonderful and there can be no debate that it will be the best knife you ever made.

I always recommend starting with a small and simple design for a first knife. There is a better chance for success if you can concentrate on the basics rather than the distractions of gut hooks, serrations, and other features.

- LonePine
Alias Paul Meske, Wisconsin

 

[Darrin Sanders]

By all means buy steel that will make a usable knife. While your grinds may not be perfect at first they will still make good user knives if heat treated properly. If you are gonna heat treat yourself I suggest you get 1084, 1080, or 1075 because the hear treat is much more forgiving on these steels. If you are gonna send out for heat treat it really doesn't matter. But either way I STRONGLY suggest you buy only steel that has been fully annealed and has had the scale ground off. The few extra dollars spent for annealed and ground stock will save time and money in the long run. Hope this helps and welcome to the wonderful world of knifemaking.

 

[AcridSaint]

When I want to learn how to grind something I grind it on 10xx steel first. I don't feel bad if I scrap it and I can heat treat it if it turns out OK.

 

[Justin King]

If you buy from the right supplier, 1084 won't cost you much more than what they sell at Home Depot, which is horribly overpriced for junk steel.

If you are having trouble with the grinds and catch it early, you can usually save it with a file and some elbow grease. Once you have a fairly wide bevel going, you can feel the surface against the belt and it is easier. I always flatten my grinds by hand on sandpaper anyway, just can't get them quite clean enough on the grinder.

Probably the best tip is to use good quality belts, ceramic if possible. Norton Blaze and 3m 967's are top of the heap IMO.

 

[scotsmanspride]

If you buy from the right supplier, 1084 won't cost you much more than what they sell at Home Depot, which is horribly overpriced for junk steel.

If you are having trouble with the grinds and catch it early, you can usually save it with a file and some elbow grease. Once you have a fairly wide bevel going, you can feel the surface against the belt and it is easier. I always flatten my grinds by hand on sandpaper anyway, just can't get them quite clean enough on the grinder.

Probably the best tip is to use good quality belts, ceramic if possible. Norton Blaze and 3m 967's are top of the heap IMO.

Just noticed your location. Do you ever have time if people are in the area with beer to maybe show off grinding techniques?

 

[Mitchell Knives]

The last time I checked, 1095 was cheaper than the mild steel at Lowes.

Use real steel, and you can always heat treat it if you come up with a design you like.

 

[Justin King]

Just noticed your location. Do you ever have time if people are in the area with beer to maybe show off grinding techniques?

I could if you caught me at the right time, but the next few weeks are going to be shot. I am about to start packing up my house and workshop to move, not sure when the shop will be operational again.
Whereabouts are you at?

 

[scotsmanspride]

I could if you caught me at the right time, but the next few weeks are going to be shot. I am about to start packing up my house and workshop to move, not sure when the shop will be operational again.
Whereabouts are you at?

Down in queen creek. Just east of phoenix.

 

[Miles Undercut]

Get a good variety of belts, and a lot of them, a real respirator with replaceable filters. Put a can of water with a dab of detergent in it directly under the wheel to catch the dust. Wear safety glasses. Keep your hair and fingers from getting caught twixt the wheel and the belt and the table if you have one in front of the belt. Get a surface plate (Enco often has free shipping deals) and height gauge for marking both sides of the blade symmetrically. I'd start looking for a bigger grinder, 2" x 72" if you can. Pore over all the posts here and on Britishblades. Read Terzuola's great book on making tactical folders. If you get the Loveless book, get a first edition-- the latest is worthless because the pictures are muddy and all but illegible. Look carefully at Gil Hibben's website for step-by-step pictures of his approach, Ed Caffrey's for his. It's an endless process, at least it has been for me. I've read it takes five years to get on top of hollow grinding-- but then I have also seen pictures of nifty blades that makers say was their first....

 

[jawilder]

Also i am working on a craftsman 2x42 - What would be an easy first grind...

Craftsman 2x42 won't do a hollow grind... well, it will on the right side but there is not enough room on the left side. You can do a convex or flat grind. Take all guards off of the grinder including the one on the top idler wheel (cut if off) and you will have more options to grind.