Learning to sharpen

[WVDAVE]

I've been doing a lot of reading about sharpening and this will be my first venture into sharpening so I need somethings cleared up. What is the better angle 20 degrees or 15 degrees? I want to learn how to freehand what's a good stone to start with (Arkansas, diamond, etc.)? I notice a lot of you guys recommend the Sharpmaker, is this the direction I should go? Are there any books worth getting on the subject?

 

[Vivi]

I've been doing a lot of reading about sharpening and this will be my first venture into sharpening so I need somethings cleared up.

What is the better angle 20 degrees or 15 degrees?

The better angle depends on certain things, most specifically the steel type, whether or not you use a microbevel, and most importantly what you intend to use the knife for. For an EDC knife of quality steel, there are very few things that would require a 20 degree per side edge. That type of edge is more appropriate for axes and other hard use tools. For things like cutting cardboard, rope, paper, tape and food, I think 10 degrees per side is more suitable, but 15 degrees per side is good if you're rough on your knives.

I want to learn how to freehand what's a good stone to start with (Arkansas, diamond, etc.)? I notice a lot of you guys recommend the Sharpmaker, is this the direction I should go? Are there any books worth getting on the subject?

The sharpmaker is an excellent daily use sharpening system. It's more for keeping an established edge sharp. You can learn freehand sharpening with the system, but I think a traditional stone is better. The sharpmaker excels at touching up edges and keeping them sharp day to day, not forming edges.

If you want something to form an edge on a seriously dull knife or a knife with an edge that's too thick, I would suggest a DMT diamond stone. A DMT fine wil give you a nice, polished edge finish that can slice and push cut well. The coarser grits will allow you to shape the edge quicker, but it's easier to make mistakes. Finer grits will give you better edges, but aren't really necessary for beginners. I prefer the DMT because they require next to no maintenance (Wipe with a damp rag when it's gets dirty looking) and last forever.

 

[Jason B.]

Diamond stones or waterstones if you want to freehand, diamond is simple DMT but with waterstones there are a big selection of makers and prices. There are many systems that can get a knife sharp for you but theirs nothing like freehand.







Vivi, good to see ya around again.

 

[WVDAVE]

Thanks Guys

 

[GRIM 62]

I would go with diamond stones.You can get by with extra course and fine grits,also try the longer stones,say 11".Diamonds remove metal faster,which makes the job easier.I would also get a Sharpmaker for polishing the edge.You should also invest in a good strop and polishing compound for removing the burr.Plus the strop helps give you that wicked sharp edge.A good place to buy strops is JRE Industries.

 

[rwiggins]

I agree, the bevel depends on the knife and what you will be using it for. I don't really measure degrees. I put on an edge, test it, and if it does what I want I am good to go. - I just did some rough measuring and my edges vary between 15 and 20 degrees, depending on their intended use.

I also agree about the diamond stones. I have DMT Duo Sharps, the 8" ones from Extra course to Extra fine. I chose 8" because they are wider than the 11" stones, but you may want the length. I have no trouble sharpening 10 1/2" Bowies on them. My course Duo Sharp is the regular model and the fine Duo Sharp is the Plus model. Works like a charm.

I'll be getting the Extra Extra course and Extra Extra fine eventually, just to complete my collection. Just focus on the basics and get a shaving sharp edge on a course stone and everything else will fall into place. Just remember to take it a little easier on the diamond stones as they remove material quickly.

Also, you might want to learn to strop. It comes pretty easy when you learn to freehand. Lately I've been using Herb's Yellowstone compound on the rough side of a leather strop. The compound is dry and powdery and holds better on the rough side. Once you get it worked in and have used it for a while, it begins to look like a smooth grey stone and really hones the edge nicely leaving a bright, shiny finish.