Leather Dye Cure Time

[ChrisY]

I'm fairly new to sheath making and have noticed that when I wear a newly made sheath on my belt that the dye stains my pants even after several days. Is there a way to prevent or minimize this? My sheaths are made such that the rough side is against my pants. Surprisingly the stain seems to come out in the wash.

 

[rayban]

If you could seal the dye with a finish, it may not do that..problem is, it's difficult to seal the rough side.
I've used a few coats of resoline and it seems to work, let each coat dry well before applying the other.

 

[Sagewood]

Are you using Black dye? Black is notorious for rubbing off. Typically when I dye, I will airbrush or dab the dye onto the leather, flex the leather a little bit to open the pores so the dye penetrates, and then wipe off the surface with cheese cloth(that white mesh looking fabric).

Other than Black, I have never had a problem with any other colors with dye rubbing off.

 

[leatherman]

Goose is right on the money with that one, black is the worst. That powdery residue must be removed before you seal the sheath. Its a pain to get it all, it seems to come right back. If the application is too heavy, the dye will continue to migrate out for some time.

A good cure for this is to use Pro Oil Dye, or Vinegaroon. Pro Oil dye penetrates deeper and doesn't get that powdery stuff as bad.

 

[Sagewood]

A good cure for this is to use Pro Oil Dye, or Vinegaroon. Pro Oil dye penetrates deeper and doesn't get that powdery stuff as bad.

That is what I am working on right now. I've got a mason jar of vinegar and steel wool sitting in the basement. I am looking foward to seeing how well it works. I am curious as to how well it would work for an edge dye. I use the same dye for the edge as on the sheath, but while burnishing sometimes the color doesn't stay as well in certain areas. I would imagine that wouldn't happen with vinegaroon, but we will see.

 

[leatherman]

Vinegaroon is a fickle substance, sometimes black, sometimes blue, and occasionally purple, and always stinky . I wish I had more time to experiment, but speed is of the essence these days with the economy the way it is. There is so much I want to do in this craft but no time to experiment. I am going to make time soon though.

I have the same problem with oil dye and edges, it never goes in fully black no matter how many apps I use. Secret: use that "USMC black" its got something in it that is very and I mean VERY solid. I only use it on my edges because I really dislike super shiny leather. USMC black to me looks like patent leather once cured. Same reason I avoid Super Sheene and most other acrylic based finishes. I like wax.

USMC black and gum trag over that and your see through edges will be no more.

 

[John A. Larsen]

Charlie Ochs (Ox Forge) in his video, says if you want to dye a sheath black, first dye it blue. Works for him as his black sheaths look good, and I did not have any problems with the dye coming off on my trousers. Sorry, I do not know what brand dye he uses. John

 

[leatherman]

I've heard that blue trick before and keep forgetting to get some! Thanks for the reminder!

 

[Wild Rose]

Vinegaroon is a fickle substance, sometimes black, sometimes blue, and occasionally purple, and always stinky

If it's any thing but black it's generally an easy fix:
1) apply a coat or two of tannins - a strong black tea mix will work either immediately before or after application of the vinegar black
2) after the blacking is applied use a baking soda dip - this will set the black, Just do not over do it and rinse well with clear water. Too long or too strong a baking soda dip an you will burn the leather which lead to surface crazing and other damage.
3) If stinky then you haven't let it age long enough or used enough iron in the mix. The stinky is the acetic acid which needs to be fully used up with enough iron. Once the mix will no longer dissolve the iron (it will start going rusty an will leave sludge) venting it off will remove any lingering odor. Also once the item, has been "dyed" (technically vinegar black is NOT a dye, but rather a chemical reagent - the color is produced via a reaction between the iron in solution and the tannins in the leather), hang it up in front of a fan, this will eliminate and lingering odor
4) The other option is to use ferric nitrate crystals mixed with distilled water at around a 5 to 1 ratio of water to the crystals. Vinegar black is ferric acetate (iron dissolved in vinegar which contains a 5 % solution of acetic acid), whereas ferric nitrate is iron dissolved in nitric acid. Both were used in the past for coloring leather and both are technically metallic salts once all of the acid content is used up dissolving the iron. Ferric nitrate crystals can be purchased from the Science Company. No odor at all - use exactly like vinegar black.

 

[leatherman]

Good info! Thank you!

I've heard people using steel wool (degreased) how does steel compare with iron in the solution? I can imagine a little different coloration eh?

 

[Rick Lowe]

I've used the degreased steel wool and been happy. Most of the time I use the fines left from grinding knife blades with same good results. Can't tell any difference between 01, 5160, 1084 or 1095 .

Good thought on the tea mix, guess it adds to the tannins and amps the process. Got to remember the soda bath!