Leather Grinder Belt

S

seionage

Joined
Oct 3, 2010
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398
I noticed that Trugrit has Leather grinder belts.

What do people use them for? I'm assuming some type of stropping.

What has been your exeriance with them? I imagine they must put a razor edge on a knife, rather quickly.

I would apprecate any feedback or thoughts about them.

Thanks!
 
I have a leather belt for my 1x42 grinder. I use it all the time- here's what for and how.

Usually when I have finished making a knife, the last step is to sharpen the edge. The edge is typically around .030 at this point. I grind the edge at 80 grit until I get a burr. I go to 400 grit for a few passes until I have a much finer burr. Then I go to the leather belt, load it with green chrome, and power strop the edge with that 3-4 passes each side, then 2 sets of alternating passes at a very slightly increased angle. I get a uniformly hair-popping edge every time. It only takes me about 2 min. to go from no edge at all to razor. I love it.

It also works great to touch up chisel edges, leather knives, and xactos sharper than when you bought them.

Just don't leave the belt on the grinder when not in use as they stretch out pretty badly if you do.
 
Thanks! That sounds like an awesome way to sharpen knives, even kitchen knives.

Especially if you can go from dull to razor sharp in under 2min. Plus, for $30 or so, you pay way more than that for any type of sharpening system.
 
One word of caution.....
The belts must be run SLOW.
Put one on an non-variable speed belt sander and it can burn the edge fast. It can also grab the tip and fling a razor sharp knife right out of your hands.....often with really bad results. I lost the heel of my left palm several years back by stropping too fast. I had switched from the 400 grit to the leather belt, but forgot to slow the speed down.
 
I have a 1x30 from Hand American. It is smooth.
 
Let me clarify do you expose the coarse side and load it with the compound? Thanks
 
[QUOTENo, the flesh side (smooth) is what is outward.
][/QUOTE] Thanks Bladesmith.
 
Yeah, I use mine with the flesh side out, it works well. I'm sure Stacy has a good point about the speed- I do however use the one on my 1x42 at 2700ish sfpm, have been using it about six years (the same belt!) and to date have not burned an edge or had it catch anything. I guess your mileage may vary.
 
once you load it with the compound it quickly becomes smooth on any side. I have a wheel for my buff that works great.

Richard
 
Thanks for the link, with postage would be US$60.00.
I can buy a whole shoulder for less than that, MMM wonder what glue they use to splice these:confused:
I can see me getting smacked with a leather belt when the join fails, MMM again may not be a bad thing after all:D
Richard
 
You can get the same type of super stropping action with a felt belt loaded with green compound or almost as good with a cork belt that has been worn down and loaded with green compound. These two are the last of my personal sharpening sequence for almost everything, and they come away polished and sharp and it keeps the convexity very well.

cheaper, too.

they also stretch, so take them off when not in use.

kc
 
My 1x42 has a 1/2 horse motor, which makes it power-wise really the equivalent of a 1hp with a 2in. wide belt. I'll not argue the point too hard, but it does occur to me that speed and contact surface quality rather than horsepower are responsible for probably the majority of snagging accidents- as evidenced by the conventional wisdom pertaining to buffing machines.

If I'd lost the heel of my hand to my buffing belt, I'm sure I would be warning people about them, too.
 
If you want to make one, do it in 9-10 Oz. leather. For the bond, use leather weld and a 1" long scarf joint. Cutting the joint at an angle also helps make it stronger. Clamp the joint on a jig made from wood, to assure all stays straight. Let dry for several days in the jig.
 
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