Leather liner for leather sheath, to cover belt loop rivet

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Dec 12, 2019
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Hello,
I’ve been modding an Esee PR4 stock leather sheath, so it works a little better for me. I severed and cut down the top of the belt loop, and riveted it to the back of the sheath to make it fit my belt. It is a pouch style sheath, so the knife is retained via friction between the sheath and the micarta slabs, so now the micarta rubs against the brass rivet on the inside of the sheath. I was thinking I could line the inside of the sheath where the rivet is, so as to avoid scuffing/wearing down the micarta handle. My thought is to glue a strip of thin/soft leather across the sheath (from fold to welt, aka spine to blade), covering the rivet.

I don’t want to line the whole inside of the sheath (top to bottom), as the sheath is already stitched and I don’t feel like unstitching it. In fact, this whole project revolves around me not wanting to unstitch the sheath. I understand this is not the best choice for the best outcomes, but it’s what I’m doing.

My questions are:
1. What kind and thickness of leather do you recommend for lining? Deerskin? Veg tan? The sheath is I believe 7 or 8 ounce veg tan.
2. Is gluing a lining into the sheath recommended/durable? I could feasibly stitch a line across the top of the sheath, but nothing more without unstitching the whole thing, which as I said, I don’t want to do.
3. Bonus question - I’ve also wondered how much I actually need to worry about a brass rivet scuffing up polished canvas micarta. Micarta is pretty tough stuff, and brass is fairly soft, but I haven’t been able to determine if micarta is so much tougher than brass that brass couldn’t damage it or wear it down with continued/repeated rubbing when sheathing and unsheathing the knife.

Thank you for taking the time to entertain answers for such specific questions.

Best,
TG
 
Brass is definitely harder than Micarta and it can damage it over time.
I will glue in small pieces of thinner veg tan leather to cover snaps and rivets all the time and it works quite well. A couple of recommendations; skive (thin) the edges as much as possible so they do not catch and extend the edges a bit beyond the rivet to ensure you are gluing leather to leather and not just leather to metal. Good contact cement properly applied will last a long time without stitching in this type of application. Leather in the 2 to 4 ounce range (1/32" to 1/16") will work fine. Any thicker just adds bulk without real benefit.
Hope this helps.
Randy
 
Maybe it's too late, but there are some very flat chicago screws that you can use, which - when tightened a bit, will sink into the leather enough that you don't have to worry about them rubbing the scales.

The other option I'd consider is putting a drop of slower curing epoxy (with a toothpick, for instance) on each rivet. If you hold the sheath right, the epoxy will flatten in the beginning of the cure, stick very well to leather, and then the scale will be on top of smooth epoxy.

Just my 2 cents.
 
Maybe it's too late, but there are some very flat chicago screws that you can use, which - when tightened a bit, will sink into the leather enough that you don't have to worry about them rubbing the scales.

The other option I'd consider is putting a drop of slower curing epoxy (with a toothpick, for instance) on each rivet. If you hold the sheath right, the epoxy will flatten in the beginning of the cure, stick very well to leather, and then the scale will be on top of smooth epoxy.

Just my 2 cents.
Not too late at all. I’m always open to hearing good ideas. Don’t know why I hadn’t considered Chicago screws earlier - thank you for that and the epoxy tip!
 
Brass is definitely harder than Micarta and it can damage it over time.
I will glue in small pieces of thinner veg tan leather to cover snaps and rivets all the time and it works quite well. A couple of recommendations; skive (thin) the edges as much as possible so they do not catch and extend the edges a bit beyond the rivet to ensure you are gluing leather to leather and not just leather to metal. Good contact cement properly applied will last a long time without stitching in this type of application. Leather in the 2 to 4 ounce range (1/32" to 1/16") will work fine. Any thicker just adds bulk without real benefit.
Hope this helps.
Randy
Randy, I’m curious - for the skived piece of liner, before gluing it in place, do you dye/finish/seal it? I’ve been using sno seal and then resolene as a finisher. I don’t honestly care much if the lining piece is dyed, but it strikes me it would be good for it to be weather protected. But I don’t want to compromise its flexibility. Any input there? Thanks again.
 
Resolene would not hurt as long as you don't get it in the area to be glued. It will compromise the glue bond some. Personally, I don't tend to apply seals or finish to the inside of holsters or sheaths. The exception is that I do apply a light coat of oil to the inside of lined ones. This has worked well for me for a lot of years with no complaints from customers. I know others do put a finish on the inside and I certainly am not suggesting it is a bad idea.
Randy
 
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