Leather sheath class WIP!

Taz

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 28, 1999
Messages
2,611
I got a scholarship from a local Blacksmith Guild to take a leather knife sheath class this past weekend! I had tried in the past, but the sheaths were pretty horrible.

Step one:
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Trace the knife and then mark and trace another line around the blade, 1/8" away from the blade. This will be the inside of the welt. Then trace another line 1/4"-3/8" away from that for the outside of the welt.

Step 2:

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Figure out how far up the handle you want the sheath to go and draw it out with marker. This is a simple pouch style sheath.

Step 3:

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Fold the paper at the spine of the knife and trace around it to get the pattern shape for the sheath. I ended up bumping the sheath out near the guard for more clearance:

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Step 4:
Time to cut leather! We figured out where the fold over belt loop would be located and added it to the pattern before cutting out the leather. We used a regular utility razor knife, but I did order a round knife to try for my own attempts.

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In the background of the above pic, you can see a piece of leather. We practiced using stamps, clay modeling tools, craftaid transfers, etc to provide texture to the sheaths. I ended up choosing a wood grain pattern for my sheath.

Step 4:

We used the stitch groove tool to mark our groove line to punch for the holes. Since my outer edge of the sheath was a bit wonky, my line is wonky (and runs off the edge). Hopefully more practice and a round knife will give me cleaner edges to work off of! Or I may cut, fold and shape before grooving in the future to avoid this.
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Step 6:

Using the craftaid template and a burnisher tool, I transferred the wood grain pattern to the damp leather and then used a swivel knife and modeling tools to trace the lines and a texture stamp in the knot areas:
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Step 7:

We traced the welt onto damp leather with a modeling tool and then cut it out. Rubber cement to one side of the sheath and then shaped and trimmed the fold over belt loop:
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Step 8:

Skive the belt loop a bit to thin the end down, then get out the punches and start punching holes! I used the 5 pin punch for the top and bottom of the square and then the 4 pin punch for the sides, keeping one of the punches in to hold everything in place as I went.
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Step 9:

Sew the loop closed! This needs to be done before sewing the remainder of the sheath. We did a 2 needle saddle stitch and did several holes with one end of the thread, then did the double instead of trying to do both needles at once to avoid tangle ups.

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Here is the loop sewn down and starting the punch the holes for the sheath stitching. I was working from the back due to the belt loop and the line got wonky, so I had to fix a lot with the Awl to get the stitches back in the groove.


Part 2 coming soon!
 
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If you are using pin prick stitching punches, GET THIS TOOL!! It really sucks punching through 3 thick pieces of leather and then trying to remove the punch. This tool makes it SOOO much easier and helps you not pull apart the leather layers! I bought one after the first day of class and struggling to remove the punch and it arrived the next morning before I went to class. We passed it around and the instructor ordered a bunch, some for her and enough to stock her 10 leather working kits! She has nice Weaver punches, but complained about removing them. She tried it once with her Weaver punch and pulled out the phone and ordered them.

We went over drilling the stitch holes versus punching them. It comes down to preference. Stitching irons we used punched diamond holes, which are smaller, but kinda self heal a bit and close up, giving a better seal to the stitching. Drilled holes remove more leather, so it's easier and faster to stitch the leather, especially using both needles through the hole, but may leave more gaps for moisture to enter. I tried drilling after using one of the spike stitch wheels to locate the holes and it was much less straight than with the punches. Others drill and make beautiful sheaths and leather goods! Drill bit size matters, too!

Step 10:
Back and front of the sheath fully stitched up:
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You can see where I went off on the curve and got out of the groove on the 2nd pic above. I saw something where they made a holder to hold the sheath off of the belt loop so it's easier to punch the holes from the front side so that side looks cleaner, so I will probably make up a jig for that with some thick wood with a leather cover on it.

Step 11:

Clean up the profile of the sheath using skiving tools and sandpaper and a burnisher:
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It was kinda fun using the hand tools! I know I can use my 2x72 with the VFD, but doing this sheath all by hand is kinda nice and relaxing. Something I can do inside the house when it's cold or hot out is nice!

Step 12: Color and finishing!

I used Eco Flo Antique Gel in Briar Brown on my sheath. Goop it on a clean rag, wipe on, buff off. Messy, but simple! Then they got a coat of Sealer, Mink oil and Saddle Butter after the previous steps were dry.

Pic after the dye:
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I let it sit on longer so it would darken more to contrast with the handle, but antique dyes usually keep the recessed/tooled areas darker and the outer layer lighter. Mine is dark all around because I let it sit longer, ie a couple of minutes. You gotta be fast with applying and wiping off!

And after the sealer, mink oil and Saddle Butter:
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Is it perfect? No way! But it came out way better than my other attempts and I have a better idea of how to do this process! Kydex is still way faster to do, but it's nice to be able to offer leather sheaths soon as an option! I will probably do them plain or with the wood grain texture, but I can't locate that particular craft aid, so I will have to free hand it. I have some stamps I can do as well, but I will be doing a lot more practice coming up!

I tried a 2nd sheath last night, but I had 10oz leather at home from my strops. 10oz sucks to punch through; the stitching punches barely poked through the far side! I had to wet it to get it to bend for the belt loop and folding the pouch over. I got it done (except for dye and finish steps) and cleaned up the profile on the belt sander, but I need to cut the leather cleaner originally and do better with cutting the fold over loop, too. I did find some veg tanned pre dyed leather so I wouldn't have to worry about the dye steps, but I want to practice more first to get some patterns established, work out the process steps (dye before or after assembly, shape before or after stitch grooving, drill vs punch, etc!). Still have a way to go, but it's nice to get the process started!

I am going to try to get pictures of the other sheaths from the class; there were 2 younger kids taking the class and they did some awesome sheaths! The other guy did a horizontal seax sheath with straps, but it wasn't done when I left! They used the antiquing gel and got a nice contrast!
 
Looking good! One thing I recommend is bringing your welt up to the top at the throat of the sheath.
 
Funny story about that! My guard is kinda wide and beefy, so when we did the test fit, we found that the welt all the way up prevented the knife from fitting into the sheath, so we remove the upper portion so it wouldn't interfere with the guard. We tried to bump out the sheath body enough to make it fit, but it was still tight. So if I have a chonky guard, I need to allow extra space/width there so the guard fits into the sheath, or trim the guard back further.
 
You did good - and I really LIKE the wood grain finish on the leather. Looks like it's a lot easier than trying basket weave also.
 
Did this one tonight in 7oz leather:

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Wood grain came out OK (it's all done with clay modeling tools), stitching and welt burnishing went really well. Belt loop is more even than the last ones, but not quite there yet.

The dye I used didn't do much, so I will go back to the Eco Flo Antique gel.
 
Nice job...The more you make the better you'll get....👍👍👍.....

Just the stitching alone in the last picture is much better.....👌

Keep up the good work.......!!!!!!!!!!! Your awesome blades definitely deserve a leather sheath!!!!!!!!
 
Thanks! I went to Tandy Leather yesterday and got the antique dye gels that work fast, so I will re dye it tonight when I get home. I may try to add more texture, too.

I got some Water Buffalo hide from Tandy that said it was Veg Tan. Very soft and supple, even though it was 8-10oz. Made up 2 sheaths from it, was reading the website description and saw it was Chrome Tanned and then Veg Tanned, so I need to get something to line it so it doesn't corrode blades. Sucks because it has a great color and texture to it and now I gotta add another step to the process to line it with Pigskin or something.

I am getting better with patterning the knife, cutting the leather and welt, finishing and stitching, so I am making progress!
 
You are really progressing.

A couple points that may help:
- a lot of guys don't stitch groove the backside of the sheath as it can be difficult to hit the line when you punch your holes.
- a stitch groove around the throat of the sheath (no stitching) may add a nice finishing touch
 
Yeah, I may start doing that and not groove the backside. I did one where I tooled and dyed the leather before punching/stitching and it made the leather a bit softer feeling, so the threads may pull tighter and not need the groove on the back to look clean.

I've seen the borders at the top and other areas and they do look nice!
 
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