I totally agree with Paul and suggest the following suppliers in particular and in no particular order - they all have their differences and advantages but all are TOP quality leather:
1) Wickett & Craig Leather - order direct from the factory and according to Paul they offer the best vat dyed leathers. The only "downside" is they do not offer or at least not very often smaller sizes such as shoulders which can be more cost effective for newer/smaller makers. They have a website.
2) RJF Leather - My current favorite in standard undyed russet and Roger sells shoulders. For me since I make only period leather this is old style vat tanned leather which is the closest thing to the leather pre-1900 and that's a selling point for my market
3) Herman Oak Leather - A favorite amongst many makers of all type of leather gear. The only downside is if you order direct you have to order 10 piece lots, but there are several dealers who offer it such as Oregon Leatherworks, Montana Leatherworks, and Springfiled leather - the latter also will also cut pieces for thise wishing to try it or do not or cannot invest in a larger size (but the price goes up per foot to include the labor cost)
Others will have their favorites as well, but these are the three I have mostly used in the last 51 years of crafting leather...
As for old used leather there can be some uses such as inlays or for making patterns, etc., but for the actual construction it behooves one to use the best new leather available not only for quality but for safety's sake.......