Leather strops

While just about any thin vegetable-tanned leather would work well, horse butt was long considered optimal though the latest 'best' is kangaroo.
 
If the strop is to be used with compound, it literally makes no difference as to the type of leather. In fact, the 'premium' horsehide strops are generally meant to be used bare, with no compound. All of the benefit of horsehide is forfeited, if it's covered with compound.

Used with compound, all that matters is that the strop material is smooth and/or uniform across it's surface, and holds the compound well. This means any other material, like fabric (denim, canvas, linen) or paper or wood, can work just as well, and even better in many circumstances. The biggest potential downside to any leather is it's inherent compressibility and/or softness, which can tend to round off the apex if not used with good technique (lightest pressure, conservatively low angle). Hard-backed strops of thinner fabric, and wood by itself, are much less compressible, and therefore will yield a crisper apex with a greater tolerance for somewhat heavier pressure.


David
 
Last edited:
I agree 100% with David. With compounds all you really need is a firm, flat surface. Some like buffed surfaces or the flesh side of leather as it seems to hold pastes better but still needs to be flat so you get the most contact. Thin leather on a hard surface is great and some even use pastes directly on wood. Horsehide is typically rather firm so It would give it some advantage over softer leathers in that aspect but I still prefer rigidly supported paddle strops over hanging strops for abrasive use whether with knives or razors.

Sent from my LGMS769 using Tapatalk
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
If the strop is to be used with compound, it literally makes no difference as to the type of leather. In fact, the 'premium' horsehide strops are generally meant to be used bare, with no compound. All of the benefit of horsehide is forfeited, if it's covered with compound.

Used with compound, all that matters is that the strop material is smooth and/or uniform across it's surface, and holds the compound well. This means any other material, like fabric (denim, canvas, linen) or paper or wood, can work just as well, and even better in many circumstances. The biggest potential downside to any leather is it's inherent compressibility and/or softness, which can tend to round off the apex if not used with good technique (lightest pressure, conservatively low angle). Hard-backed strops of thinner fabric, and wood by itself, are much less compressible, and therefore will yield a crisper apex with a greater tolerance for somewhat heavier pressure.

David
Click to expand...


What he said....

Stitchawl
 
Benchmade357mag said:
How thick should the leather be
Click to expand...

The question should be 'how thick,' but 'how firm.'
When using leather as a substrate, it needs to be firm enough not to compress under the weight of the blade and the pressure exerted on it during the stropping process. Personally, I want the leather to be so firm that it will not dent under the pressure of a finger nail! The thinnest leather can still be too soft to use as a good strop, while very thick leather, if properly treated, can be perfect.

As said before, if you are using compounds, there is absolutely NO REASON AT ALL to use leather as a substrate.
If you are using the leather bare, then properly cased vegetable-tanned leather is the way to go; shell horsehide for the best, shoulder or back cowhide second. There are all sorts of 'exotic' leathers that are being touted as 'best,' but the reality is that the difference between all of them amount to a couple of extra stropping strokes as best... For example, if it takes you 15 strokes on a high quality horsehide strop, it might take 18 strokes on a well made cowhide strop. Horsehide doesn't strop 'better,' it strops faster. (Assuming, of course, that both are properly cased and prepared. Just taking a piece of leather and gluing to a board is NOT properly making a 'good' strop. It's just making a strop...)

(EDIT: If you are 'stropping' the same blade for 20 minutes, you should have stayed on your stones longer. Stropping is the 'finishing touch' to the sharpening process, and shouldn't take more than 15-30 seconds. Touch-ups are even faster.)

Stitchawl
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top