Lee Valley Honing Guide

Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
360
If the spine were touching the strop, how could the strop ever touch the edge? The angle needs to be at least as obtuse as the edge and perhaps a little more so. That way, it is actually working the burr. Otherwise, you are just smoothing out the shoulder, which won't do anything for your edge.
 
No I mean the spine touching the strop in addition to the edge touching it, this is what I've seen being touted as the correct way. This is of course assuming that the leather will be pliable and conform to the blade producing a convex edge.
 
I use the strop all the time, and it does a wonderful job. I have no experience with the edge guide, but it looks like a pain in the butt. I also use the lee valley honing compound (green bar). I apply it a little differently than most people. I shave slivers into a little plastic cup, add alcohol to dissolve wax, then finger paint a light coating over the whole strop, let dry, and viola, a nice even abrasive coating on strop.
 
drsharpening.com has a good stropping tutorial. but yes that is the jist of it, trail it along with the edge touching the strop with light pressure (very light)
 
ghost squire said:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32456&cat=1,43072

Has anybody used this product? I have been looking for a honing guide to use with waterstones and this looks pretty good.

Also I always thought you had to strop a blade with the spine touching the strop as well as the edge, how would this: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32999&cat=1,43072
work? Do you simply trail the edge of the blade at the desired angle?

I think you may be thinking of a straight razor, where there IS a relationship between the (hollowground) edge, and the spine.

I have the same strop. Pick your angle and trail away. Good stuff. I use HandAmerican grits with it.

Rob
 
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