Leeks Speedsafe

Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
149
I have owned and EDC'd my partially serrated Kershaw Blackout for quite some time, and absolutely love the knife. The Speedsafe assisted open was a real plus as I have some tendon damage in my right hand (right handed) so it makes deploying the knife sooo much easier than a non assisted folder.

I recently wanted to add a non serrated folder to my collection, and thought the Leek would make a perfect choice. So, today the mailman arrives and my plain jane staight edge leek arrives. Looks great and seems to fit the bill perfectly. Then I tried the assisted open, only to have the blade stop at a 45 degree angle and not fully extend/deploy like the Blackout does. It is also stiffer to engage the speedsafe than the Blackout

Is this expected? Or is this in need of some fixing/wearing in? If this is as expected, I am more than a little disappointed.
 
I have owned and EDC'd my partially serrated Kershaw Blackout for quite some time, and absolutely love the knife. The Speedsafe assisted open was a real plus as I have some tendon damage in my right hand (right handed) so it makes deploying the knife sooo much easier than a non assisted folder.

I recently wanted to add a non serrated folder to my collection, and thought the Leek would make a perfect choice. So, today the mailman arrives and my plain jane staight edge leek arrives. Looks great and seems to fit the bill perfectly. Then I tried the assisted open, only to have the blade stop at a 45 degree angle and not fully extend/deploy like the Blackout does. It is also stiffer to engage the speedsafe than the Blackout

Is this expected? Or is this in need of some fixing/wearing in? If this is as expected, I am more than a little disappointed.

Sometimes they need worked a little. I'll sit on the couch and open and close it 50 or 100 times. If that doesn't work try some pivot adjustment. If that doesn't work, get in touch with Kershaw customer support. They will send you a new torsion bar if you want to fix it yourself. You could also just send it back and they will take care of it.

http://www.kershawknives.com/contactus.php?brand=kershaw

Change the "Subject" line to "Warranty" and you'll see the parts listed
 
Yeah they need a little break-in period, and possibly a pivot-adjustment. Another guy had a similar problem, and he just needed to break it in.
 
OK, thanks. I have no issues sitting on the couch opening and closing 50 to 100 times, I just have to deal with my wife giving me the "what's he up to now?" look. ;):D
 
OK, thanks. I have no issues sitting on the couch opening and closing 50 to 100 times, I just have to deal with my wife giving me the "what's he up to now?" look. ;):D

You can't ever stop with just one Leek...she may just have to get used to it. :)
 
What I did with my leek, yet don't recommend it if you don't plan on cleaning your knife a few times a month--I put olive oil in my pivot. It is so freakishly fast that I can't see the blade coming from the handle. It whips out with authority :D
 
olive oil?!?!? :eek:

I would adjust the pivot after disassembling, cleaning and lubricating. If you're not afraid to take it apart, that is. just need some torx drivers and patience. although, please - if you take it apart, make sure and take it apart while it's open so it doesn't spring open.

most Kershaws seem to ship with some graphite-y dry lubricant of some sort, which i guess helps wear in the washers, but it's not very slick. I just use 3-in-1 oil after cleaning my internals, and it still allows the washers to wear (which is what seems to make Kershaws get smoother with age) but seems much smoother.

after you loc-tite and reassemble (don't strip any screws!), adjust the pivot screw to find the sweet-spot. Also, i forgot to mention - after a while, a little grease of some sort in the slot where the torsion bar moves, keeps the knife from rattling and the action smooth.

-James
 
Olive or mineral oil work very well, especially if you use the knife in the kitchen. Food friendly and all that stuff!

Now get the knife out in 30 degree temps and those lubes will start to thicken. For my knives that don't see kitchen work, I use a synthetic oil or something like Hoppes #9.
 
I use graphite powder lubricant for locks. $2 at Wally Word in the automotive section. Originally I used it for high RPM bearings in three phase brushless motors (RC planes).

You wont find a "slicker" lubricant, its not wet, so it doesnt attract or trap pocket fuzz, and you dont get greasy fingers.

Just dont get it on your clothes, it will never come out.
 
Olive oil works like a Dream, no boost! I put that in my tanto groove after buffing the contact areas and all I have to do is tap the flipper for it to open. Perfectly centered and zero blade wobble too! :D :eek:
 
Well, after about 5 mins of working it, it seems definately smoother. Still could be a bit smoother, but I guess it will loosen more with use and time. Might take it apart in a week or so if I think it could benefit from a once over. Thanks for the feedback.
 
I just got mine last week, and was also concerned at how it didn't open all the way on its own, but after 100+ cycles it is now every bit as smooth and sure as all of my other Ken Onion speedsafe knives. Just keep working with it for the next few days and it should loosen right up.
 
I had problems with my Leek CB opening slowly. After giving it a month of break-in, it was no better so I sent it back to the factory. Came back promptly, but not much better. After another month of break-in, I decided to have a look inside today. Everything went well until I found that I couldn't unscrew the pivot screw. The screw is stuck in the bushing nut which is round and no way to grab on to it :mad:
Any suggestions on how to get the pivot screw out? Hate to send it back to the factory again, especially since they didn't fix the problem the first time.
 
Double stick tape or rubber behind the clip. Just roll it up to where it fits between the screws. Screw the clip down tight and remove the pivot. Reinstall the pivot the same way. Hot water or a soldering iron will also break the loctite seal if you need to go that route, but, you will still need to do the tape trick.
 
Another method I've found that works well...fold a dish towel several times and place the blade edge down on it. Holding the knife by the handle, apply some downward pressure, like you were vertically push cutting into the towel (thus the reason for several folds). With pressure applied, turn the pivot screw.

This method applies enough torque to the pivot that it "locks" in place. The pivot screw is easily removed!
 
Another method I've found that works well...fold a dish towel several times and place the blade edge down on it. Holding the knife by the handle, apply some downward pressure, like you were vertically push cutting into the towel (thus the reason for several folds). With pressure applied, turn the pivot screw.

This method applies enough torque to the pivot that it "locks" in place. The pivot screw is easily removed!

I do something very similar to this and it has worked every time. You can also just lay the knife flat over the end of the table and put some downward pressure on the blade and them turn the pivot screw.
 
I do something very similar to this and it has worked every time. You can also just lay the knife flat over the end of the table and put some downward pressure on the blade and them turn the pivot screw.

Thanks Morrow - worked just as you said.:)
 
Some Leeks have pocket clips that sit on the folder such that you can actually add drag to the blade by gripping the folder good. What seems to happen is that as you grip the pressure pushes the clip down to lean a bit more on the lock which causes the lock to lean on the blade just enough to slow it down in rotation. This seems more prevalent in tip up on the ones I've seen that do this and it seems to me to be what happens when I notice my own blade stopping short.

It can also be a tell tale sign that one or more of the clip mount screws is loose. FYI.

STR
 
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