Lennox diemaster 2 bandsaw blades questions

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Dixieblade57

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Jun 20, 2007
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From information picked up on this forum, the Lennox diemaster 2 bandsaw blades are among the best if not the best you can buy!
My Dewalt Portaband saw uses a 3' 8 7/8" length blade. Of the several sites I have checked I do not see specifications for that length when I try to order the Lennox diemaster 2 blades! There charts start at 4' length!:confused: Surely they can't be a custom order for that length!!



Where is the best place to buy the Lennox diemaster 2 bandsaw blades that will fit my saw?

What specifications of teeth count do I need to consider when ordering them for cutting blade steel?

Can you provide me a link to there site?

Note: The last ones I bought came from ENCO they were Starret brand, 3' 8 7/8",
1/2x.020x14, 14reg.
Everyone of them had the tale tale, bump bump at the weld. None of them were as good as the blade that came with the saw and the last one lasted about 3 minutes cutting a piece of mild steel.:eek: It started the bump bump from the very first minute I put it on and then it began to strip teeth and in a few seconds it stripped every tooth from the blade!:mad:

I don't mind paying more for quality and those I got from ENCO were not quality. I checked this morning and they don't even carry the Lennox brand!
 
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I'll find the info in a minute and post it for you. Stacy directed me to a website a while back that sells the Lennox blades and they are indeed really good. This site also will custom make them whatever size you need. They are quite a bit pricier than what you get at ENCO, but very worth it. Stacy told me to buy two blades because I'd probably ruin the first one fairly quickly with the learning curve going from an angle grinder to a band saw, but after many months of use I still have the second blade in backup ready to go, the first is still cutting away on tool steel, powdered steel, G-10, carbon fiber, kydex, etc.

Edit: Here is the link to the site, TOOLcenter.com: http://www.toolcenter.com/BANDSAW_BLADES.html
 
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Thanks Johnnymac I don't mind paying for a good blade. Those that I got from ENCO turned out to be junk and had I know what they were I would have never even messed with them. Again thanks!
 
When it comes to ordering the right blades the ordering chart asks about width, thickness ,and TPI.

The chart has them in:
1/4" up to 1/2" width
.020 up to .035 thickness
10 up to 24 teeth with standardtooth , vari-tooth and hook teeth
I think I remember it said that you wanted at least 14 tpi, however I don't know what is the best width, thickness, and don't know which tooth works better, ( standard, vari-tooth, or hook teeth)!

What is your recommendation on width, thickness and tpi and type of tooth, for blade steel from 1/8" up to 1/4"?
 
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Some tips on bandsaw blades and use.
Break them in...or you will break them! -
1)Give them a chance to work..........Start by running them at half speed and feed the stock very slowly. Do this for the first 20 blades). Go to 3/4 speed for the next 10 blades, then run at full speed.
2) Don't run them too fast...... Full speed is not as fast as the saw will run. It is as fast as it needs to be for the stock being cut.. For 1/4" mild steel, 200-300 FPM is fine, for air hardening steels ,tool steels, and stainless - 80-100 FPM is not a bad idea. If you only run at one speed ( like most folks do) run at slow speed- 80/100 FPM.
3) Don't overfeed the blade...... Feed at a rate of about 10-12 inches per minute for most blade stock. Be patient, it takes time for the blade to cut. Pushing harder won't help. I know that if you push harder, it cuts faster, but a lower pressure is going to make the blade last longer. Too slow is a problem, but much less a problem than too fast/hard. The saw should make nice chips when cutting right. With a little experience, you can feel when the feed rate and blade speed are right.
4) Set up your saw right if you want it to cut right......Set blade tension, guide arms and rollers,tables, etc. up for what you are cutting. The #1 problem with most horizontal/vertical band saws is that they are set up to cut 2" to 7" thick steel, not thin sheet stock.If there is more space above the table than 1" , the upper guide arm is too far away ( and the blade will try and cut in a curve ). If you have the skills, lengthen the upper guide arm so it only is about 1" above the stock. If you aren't up to re-building the arm, just stack two pieces of 2X12 and a sheet of 1/16" mild steel on the existing table to bring it close to the upper guide. This will also make a rock solid table.Allow a 1/4" wide slot around the blade through the 2X12s or the chips will jam up.The new steel table top can have a close fitting slot.
5) Curves are great on girlfriends, but bad on bandsaws. ...Trying to cut anything but a very mild curve will greatly decrease the life and accuracy of your blade. Cut straight and grind in the curves.
6) NEVER cut with a new blade in the slot that the old blade broke on. It will ruin the new blade in seconds .The blade will go, "BUMP,BUMP, BUMP", and the teeth will start flying off the blade. When you put on a new blade, slow down the speed, and make a new cut.
7) If at all possible, add a coolant flow system to your saw, or get a coolant flood saw if the opportunity arises. They will cut faster, straighter, and give much longer blade life.They are usually much better built,too.

Here is a great troubleshooting chart:
http://www.bandsawblade.com/chart.htm#chart
 
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I just placed on order for a milwaukee deep cut 6232-6N portable bandsaw and was looking for information on these blades. Without having the saw here I'm not sure which blade size to order. Anyone with information on this saw that can give me the correct size and options to order?

-Michael
 
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