I might do better as all the other parts of my work get better but for now I was thinking of signing my work prior to HT with a simple R stamped in. Is this a bad idea because it can introduce a stress? I'm wide open to critique and suggestions.
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Letter stamping at the ricasso
- Thread starter GRapp
- Start date
Stamped before HT should be better - I would think any stresses put by stamping would be mostly removed by HT?
Using only an "R" for the maker's mark? Do you wish folks who might see the knife later and liking the knife to be able to find you to order a new knife?
Using only an "R" for the maker's mark? Do you wish folks who might see the knife later and liking the knife to be able to find you to order a new knife?
Ken I don't make knives for sale, that's for the professionals. I'm making them for satisfaction. The stamped R will be just so my kids & grandkids (one day) know where they came from.
I think I worded my question wrong. I was wholly planning to stamp before HT when it's soft. What I wanted to know was will the stamp cause undue stress in general. Engraving and etching are much less invasive and surely less stressful, but I don't want to get into those. From the few responses so far, it seems fine to stamp, then HT.
I think I worded my question wrong. I was wholly planning to stamp before HT when it's soft. What I wanted to know was will the stamp cause undue stress in general. Engraving and etching are much less invasive and surely less stressful, but I don't want to get into those. From the few responses so far, it seems fine to stamp, then HT.
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You can find engraving shops that do laser engraving.
It's easy to pay for one at a time as you go, no big $ input up front.
Looks 100% pro
ea42
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I doubt that would harm the blade at all. There are literally millions of production knives out there produced over the last hundred or so years with stamped blades (many with multiple lines of wording). I don't recall seeing any with blades snapped off due to the stamp. Usually it's the tips that are gone due to some ridiculous prying attempt.
Eric
Eric
bikerector
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It will be fine. Plenty of makers do that. Just don't make it obscenely big.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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I would do as you said - stamp the ricasso pre-HT and finish the blade as normal after HT. Stamp deeply, as you will be sanding/grinding away some of te surface in post HT work.
If the steel is annealed, there should be no risk for stamping a single letter.
Making (or buying) a stamping holder is a wise choice. It is a stand with a guide/holder that is positioned above a heavy base plate on the bottom. The blade is set on the base plate and positioned under the stamp which is in the guide. Once all is in place right and you are holding the blade firmly to prevent "bounce" strike the stamp ONE TIME with a 2# maul. A little practice on some scrap and you will find the correct amount of force to use.
Other folks convert a 1-ton or 2-ton arbor press into a stamping press. This works fine for knives once you practice a bit. A two-ton or bigger press may be able to make the impression buy itself, but most folks use a hammer to apply the extra jolt of power.
Some better arbor presses come with the end having a hole and set screw for the tooling or lettering. If that is what you get, you may need to cut off your stamps and grind the ends to fit.
I made one from a cheap HF press with just a round shaft. I drilled a 1" deep hole in the end of the arbor shaft to fit my 1/4" letter/number stamps (.355" diameter hole). I drilled and tapped a set screw for the hole. Stick the stamp in the hole, apply some down pressure on a piece of scrap with the pressure lever, and tighten the set screw to hold it there. (You want the top of the stamp bottomed out solid in the hole).
Pull down on the ram to apply strong pressure on the stamp against the blade and give the top of the arbor a whack with a hammer. It does not take as much hammer force as using a stamping jig above, as the press is already applying a good amount of force. Again, experiment to get the right combination.
If the steel is annealed, there should be no risk for stamping a single letter.
Making (or buying) a stamping holder is a wise choice. It is a stand with a guide/holder that is positioned above a heavy base plate on the bottom. The blade is set on the base plate and positioned under the stamp which is in the guide. Once all is in place right and you are holding the blade firmly to prevent "bounce" strike the stamp ONE TIME with a 2# maul. A little practice on some scrap and you will find the correct amount of force to use.
Other folks convert a 1-ton or 2-ton arbor press into a stamping press. This works fine for knives once you practice a bit. A two-ton or bigger press may be able to make the impression buy itself, but most folks use a hammer to apply the extra jolt of power.
Some better arbor presses come with the end having a hole and set screw for the tooling or lettering. If that is what you get, you may need to cut off your stamps and grind the ends to fit.
I made one from a cheap HF press with just a round shaft. I drilled a 1" deep hole in the end of the arbor shaft to fit my 1/4" letter/number stamps (.355" diameter hole). I drilled and tapped a set screw for the hole. Stick the stamp in the hole, apply some down pressure on a piece of scrap with the pressure lever, and tighten the set screw to hold it there. (You want the top of the stamp bottomed out solid in the hole).
Pull down on the ram to apply strong pressure on the stamp against the blade and give the top of the arbor a whack with a hammer. It does not take as much hammer force as using a stamping jig above, as the press is already applying a good amount of force. Again, experiment to get the right combination.
stabman
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For sure.
For the three knives I made that I stamped, was glad I'd taken the time to stamp extra deep.
It can take a lot of sanding to get the finish you want, and remove any warping from heat-treat that was unable to be removed immediately afterward.
On the reverse sides are the names of the people I made the knives for, but figured I wouldn't show those as I never asked if they were okay with it.
i use a harbor freight arbor press - i hang a heavy sandbag on the handle once its in position to prevent bounce - smack it with sledge hammer (definitely before hardening)
done hundreds like this works great ! i also have a 1/2" thick steel plate to place the blade on instead of the factory table that is part of the press
done hundreds like this works great ! i also have a 1/2" thick steel plate to place the blade on instead of the factory table that is part of the press
Alex Topfer
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Because i'm weird and want a hand signed feel I use a chisel, above the heel of the knife and i do it before heat treat. Never had any problems (other than terrible handwriting 
)
)I hadn't even considered using a press. My Dake arbor is 2 ton. It doesn't have a tooling slot in the ram. Maybe I'll order and extra R and cut it to a much shorter length and use without a tool holder. Maybe I'll just use a hammer. Thanks for the insight.