Lightwieght backpacking for elk, knives

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Apr 22, 2012
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I will be hunting elk somewhere this September, likely backpacking into a wilderness area with everything I'll need for 7 to 10 days. I always bring a SAK, so I'm looking for lightweight skining/butchering knife.
Bull elk are often muddy from wallowing and cutting through the hide and dried mud dulled my existing knive quickly, I would rather not stop to sharpen up a blade, if better steel would make the difference.
I have thought about bringing two Cold Steel Pendelton light hunters at 2.7 ounces each. Will 4116 stainless hold up?
Thanks, JD
 
I can't say about your pentilton hunter...how about a spyderco delica/endura in ZPD-189? It's supposed to hold a edge very well and is still very lite.
 
4116 is a lower end stainless steel. Not complete crap, but definitely not what I would choose for the task you're describing. No way.
Look into Survive Knives and Bark River, (in that order,) for knives in higher end steels. 9Blades' suggestions would also work, if you're OK with using a folder as your main skinner. I wouldn't be.
 
Get a spyderco Phil Wilson south fork. It'll do everything you need it to do on an elk and not need sharpening. Very light slim profile.
 
This is one case where I would look for something in D2, like one of the Bone Collectors by Benchmade, or one of the fixed blades by Queen. Once you get it sharp, D2 holds an edge for a long time. It isn't S90v, but knives in D2 are less expensibe, unless you go for one by Dozier. Others to consider are by Enzo.
 
Buck Vanguard 192 all the way, mine has gutted and skinned: 2 dozen deer, 1 bear, 3 elk, 2 Mnt. Lions and a couple of wolves

and that was just when i had it!!! it was a gift from my grandfather

its light weight and crazy durable for blade retention
 
Spyderco Southfork, S90V, and Phil Wilson designed...what more can you ask for?
 
A guy I work with gutted and skinned his elk with a Bone collector in D2 last year. It was dull before he was halfway through due to the mud and dirt stuck in the hide. Last year I brought a knife in 10V @64RC.... and a Mora with a sharpening stone just in case.
 
If you have the money available go straight to the source and get a Phil Wilson Southfork or any number of his custom hunting knives with his exceptional heat treat. With materials such as S110V, S90V, K294, M4, etc.... you would be set to process multiple elk before needing to worry about any touching up.

Another thing to consider is technique. When done right your blade shouldn't be coming into contact with the fur side of the hide except to make the small initial incision when gutting and then when severing the front and hind quarter knee joints. My recommendation would be to look at some video's on youtube of the gutless method. I would consider going with a custom fillet knife if you were to go this route instead of a traditional hunting pattern as it will work excellent for doing the skinning and then excel when boning out the meat. The more weight you can leave with the carcass the less weight you have to pack out which is why I prefer to bone my animals out in the field if I have any great distance to cover. If you know what you are doing, get your technique down, you don't need anything special though. I processed two medium size Bison with a Sog Twitch II. It was all I could afford at the time and it worked surprisingly well, the key is to always keep the cutting edge on the flesh side of the hide.

One last recommendation I have is to get a knife with a bright scale material to lessen the chance of leaving the knife behind. Most people I know who have lost a knife in the field while hunting had it occur when they were processing the animal. They finish up, set the knife covered with blood, sinew, etc... down to get themselves cleaned up, start prepping for the pack out and completely forget about their knife. Best of luck in your search and if you can give us an idea of budget we can provide better advice and direction on what might work for you.
 
a family friend that i hunted with used only his Spyderco clipit civilian with a fully serrated edge for gutting, it was pretty impressive

opplanet-spyderco-civilian-black-handle-serrated-blade-fold-knife-c12gs-main.jpg
 
I can't see to much usefulness in the gutting process using the civilian once you were past opening up the abdominal cavity. The serrations would also make it difficult to touch up with a pocket stone in the field quickly.
 
I have to echo what wrounghndt said and go for a custom in 10V. Sharpened with a coarse toothy edge it should cut for a very long time.
 
I've heard a lot of guys are using Havalon knives with replaceable scalpel blades for skinning everything from deer to elk to moose. You'd need a leatherman or such to change the blade out, but you can't beat the weight or sharpness.

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If you've got another blade for breaking and making for fire/wood craft/shelter building, this might be the way to go to keep your weight down.


There are some backpack hunting websites out there (archerytalk, rokslide, etc). You might take a look at those for ideas as well.
 
Be careful about taking advices from knife-nuts here: we all have our favorite knives and steels but not all have actual hunting and skinning experience. I am one of those: without practical expertise, so I will not be of much help. The one thing that I wish to tell you is that the super steels recommended here, like s90v are not only exceptionally good at edge holding, but also are PITA to sharpen when they get dull: so be aware of this and make sure you have got right sharpening tools and skills if you decide to go for it!
 
I've heard a lot of guys are using Havalon knives with replaceable scalpel blades for skinning everything from deer to elk to moose. You'd need a leatherman or such to change the blade out, but you can't beat the weight or sharpness.

If you have to factor in the weight of a leatherman then the weight is not so great. Of course if you're carrying a leatherman already than you may have something.
 
If you have to factor in the weight of a leatherman then the weight is not so great. Of course if you're carrying a leatherman already than you may have something.

True. You might be able to leave the sharpening gear at home though.

You might be able to change the blades easier than that, I'm not sure. I've never tried one of these, but I've seen people swear by them on a couple of different message boards.

I looked at one at Cabelas to see what all the hype was about. It was sturdier than what I'd have thought, but not strong like stout folder or fixed blade obviously.
 
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