linen mircata and ats-34 camp knife

C

canbkr

Joined
Jun 13, 2005
Messages
589
Just finished another one,wouldn't mind everyone's oppinnion as i'm probably going to make a few of these

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I like the blade shape for general utility use. Handle looks comfortable. The one thing I would change is the where your grind starts you have a large groove between blade edge and chiol. I aviod knives with this because it always gets caught up in matierial being cut, such as meat, hides, and some vegetation.
 
Jason Richmond said:
I like the blade shape for general utility use. Handle looks comfortable. The one thing I would change is the where your grind starts you have a large groove between blade edge and chiol. I aviod knives with this because it always gets caught up in matierial being cut, such as meat, hides, and some vegetation.
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thanks for the reply:) .i'll be making a few without the notch in the blade and also going with other handle materials and finishes
 
I think it will work just fine. If a knife is going to have a choil, my preference is for one that is a finger notch, so that you can choke up on the blade.
 
Keith Montgomery said:
I think it will work just fine. If a knife is going to have a choil, my preference is for one that is a finger notch, so that you can choke up on the blade.
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thanks:) .
 
I've seen that notch in the blade (next to the choil) before & wondered why it was put there. Does it have a function or is it just cosmetic?
 
Mick57 said:
I've seen that notch in the blade (next to the choil) before & wondered why it was put there. Does it have a function or is it just cosmetic?
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the notch is purely cosmetic and really has no function other than a marker for where the edge ends when grinding out the blade as i use no jigs etc. when i make my knives i either scribe out the grind line on the blade or cut a notch to indicate the end of the grind as i did with this knife.On some knives (ussually dive knives) i've sharpened the notch to use as a cord cutter
 
Just an excellent utility/camp/hunter set-up, with a very useful blade profile and a versatile, ergonomic handle shape, nice blade-to-handle ratio. I'm assuming about a 5" blade and 4.5" handle? I'd eliminate the choil for the same reasons offered above.

Questions: What's the blade thickness? Tapered tang? Distal taper on blade? Any thought of perhaps going to a little tougher steel, such as D2? Nothing wrong with ATS34 for most tasks, I'd just like to see such a nice package topped off with a steel that would take it beyond typical "production" parameters/expectations.

Projected price range?

Nice knife!
 
WILL YORK said:
Just an excellent utility/camp/hunter set-up, with a very useful blade profile and a versatile, ergonomic handle shape, nice blade-to-handle ratio. I'm assuming about a 5" blade and 4.5" handle? I'd eliminate the choil for the same reasons offered above.

Questions: What's the blade thickness? Tapered tang? Distal taper on blade? Any thought of perhaps going to a little tougher steel, such as D2? Nothing wrong with ATS34 for most tasks, I'd just like to see such a nice package topped off with a steel that would take it beyond typical "production" parameters/expectations.

Projected price range?

Nice knife![/QUOTE

The blade is 5" with a 4 1/2" handle (figured the size is perfect,not to big or small) blade thickness is 3/16" and no taper on the tang.Not quite sure as to what you mean by distal taper although i think your refering to the way it's ground,blade is flat ground from the spline to the edge.I'm going to be using other steels such as 154cm,D-2,A-2,possibly dentric cobalt etc. As for price range,as shown would probably around $175 Canadian funds (give or take) and would be priced accordingly depending on materials used
I hope i answered all the questions to your satisfaction and really appreciatte the interest in my work and the compliment:)
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The "notch" is put there to save the corner edge of the whetstone from being rounded off. When the edge grind gradually tapers to full thickness at the rear without the notch the taper rounds off the edge of a stone and you end up with the rear of the blade being dull and becomes deeper there than the rest of the blade as the blade is sharpened many times.All my blades have them, if they don't I add them.

I have never shoved a blade into anything deep enough to catch on a "notch" and if I did I would get a bigger knife.
 
I thought that notch was for opening bottles (if your teeth were too sore).

Great knife!
 
At $175 Canadian (about $160 US?), looks like a real winner. I like the flat grind. In my understanding, a distal taper means the blade thickness is tapered all the way from the plunge grind out to the point.

wlynn said:
The "notch" is put there to save the corner edge of the whetstone from being rounded off...

I have never shoved a blade into anything deep enough to catch on a "notch" and if I did I would get a bigger knife.
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Thanks for that, wlynn. I'd never heard of the whetstone explanation, but I can see how that would happen. I typically touch edges up on a steel or ceramic rod and only re-grind edges when the primary grind needs altering after a lot of use, so wearing out whetstones is not a great concern for me.

The notch catching in material IS a problem for me, however. If you're cutting rope, the rope will naturally slide to the rear and hang there. If you're cutting through hide, or cutting strips of canvas, or even cutting up a cardboard box, same problem. And if you're boning out large pieces of meat, such as the hams of a deer or even the backstraps of an elk, same problem. Letting the blade cut smoothly all the way back to the hilt, to me, makes for a much easier cutting stroke in all of these cases than having to consciously stop the cutting stroke short of the notch every time to avoid a hang-up.

Will
 
WILL YORK said:
At $175 Canadian (about $160 US?), looks like a real winner. I like the flat grind. In my understanding, a distal taper means the blade thickness is tapered all the way from the plunge grind out to the point.

according to the definition you gave for a distal grind,that pretty much describes the way i ground this blade.Thanks again:)
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Very nice design. Send me a PM when you get one out of D2. Green micarta is fine. Thanks bro!
 
definatly let you know when i have a few out of D-2 made up.working on another ATS-34 one right now.should have d-2 some time in the next few days to start on a few more
 
Very nice blade!

Where did you get the material for the handle, I have been looking for Linen and Canvas Micarta in Olive drab.

S/F,
CEYA!
 
ceya one said:
Very nice blade!

Where did you get the material for the handle, I have been looking for Linen and Canvas Micarta in Olive drab.

S/F,
CEYA!
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I purchased the handle material from Jeff Diotte at Downie Knife Supply, www.stainlessdamascus.com . I know he has a few colours in stock right now,but not sure which ones(he's a great person to deal with).The handle material on this knife is black linen mircata,after bead blasting it it kinda looks green in colour and gives an excellent grip whether wet or dry.
 
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