Hi Razor Edge.
Apologies for the late reply, I am in the process of unpacking following moving.
I am going to work in mm for my own aspect, but will try and convert back to inches.
In short, I only found one piece of advice from a maker I contacted. I mention that last.
Basic principles to your design:
Lock length: 2.152" - 54.6608 mm (Mine is normally similar length to around 60mm)
Lock relief: .045" - 1.143 mm (Once again similar to mine)
Lock relief size: ? (Unknown - What is the size of the cutout? I have experimented from 8mm - 12 mm, multiple cutouts with 2mm ballnose spread out over 7mm - 12mm. I currently like a 12mm ball nose as when I shape the Ti it forms a tear drop
This is not important for this discussion but can effect your lock tension of coarse and the amount of pressure on the lock bar0
Washers: .020" - 0.508 mm (I think this is might be a bit thick if it is per side. That is my total space on both sides of the blade. I tend to aim for 0.2mm or 0.00787402" per side)
Blade thickness: 0.156"
In Bob.T's book he discusses that a radius lock face can be done and he uses a 2" radius wheel. He does not discuss offset on that blade so based off of my modeling a blade that is on the center line gives you a 8.5 degree lock face. But you would have a "undercut" or "pocket" in the lock face. Not a bad thing to have but can lead to later lockup (note I am of the opinion, the later the safer) as the radius as far more gradual vs a tighter radius or flat lock face. A flat lock face one can grind on a disc, I have and had repeatable results as does another South African maker, but I have transitioned to radius lock faces due to extra accuracy that I can achieve, and I have the equipment to be able to do it so why not?
I ran an experiment and went down to 6 degrees with this "pocket" and it results in a very safe lockup, though I should have aimed for 8.5 degrees I wanted to go low as possible and see what happens.
Angles that give issues are less than 5 degrees would result in stick, more than 10 degrees would result in slipping. I have made the mistake of going above 10 degrees, I did not do my modeling correct and need to resolve that issue once I am set up again.
Bob T further discusses using a core drill bit. 0.156 blade would require a 1" cutter with a offset of 5 thousands of an inch to create the correct angle and "pocket" for the lock to seat in. Found it and sent it to you via instagram while typing this.
So the last piece of advice I got from a local maker, that is a friend of Bob T, told me, your lock grinding wheel needs to be smaller in diameter than the length of your lock.
