Liner Lock #5 with a Hamon.

[Jason Cutter]

I thought this would be worth trying since so many people have suggested it to me. I still am not fit enough to forge, so I stock removed this from a piece of 1095 scrap. Now I know what to do with those short pieces of steel !

The blade is 3inches of 1095 with a hamon, 0.060inch Ti liners and lock. Blue Twill G10 handles. Those screws are fairly large M3 size bolts because I broke my 2-56 screw tapper making the previous knife, but I thought it suited the "fat" dimensions of the handle.

I guess on future knives, I'd sit the blade higher up into the handle so it doesn't stick so far out when closed. Comments always apprecaited. Jason.

 

[justice]

very nice work Jason!!
the lock blade interface looks super tight!!
have you thaught about anodizing or heat coloring the liners.
if i was going to do it i would go for a purple or violet shade.

by the way nce hammon line you dont get to see many on folders.


....justin

 

[Robert Hankins]

Jason good for U
The design part is sometimes very difficult

 

[Greg Covington]

That is really cool.....I am glad to see an actual forged carbon steel folder blade

 

[kaosu04]

My eyes are not worthy. Beautiful work of art.

 

[Mr.BadExample]

Other than what you said about the blade when closed, that is a really sweet knife. The hamon and blue twill G10 really set it apart.

 

[Chiro75]

Beautiful, but I also see what you mean about how it looks closed. Designing a folder that looks good opened and closed is very difficult. The design is what is keeping me from attempting folding knives right now myself (and the lack of precision tooling, but that's another matter!). Anyway, on the blade, did you structure your clay in such a way that the pivot, lock area of the tang, and the part of the tang that hits the stop pin are all hardened, too? I've thought about that a lot and I assume that those areas need to be as hard as the edge or they will wear out, or is that a non-issue?

 

[Jason Cutter]

Anyway, on the blade, did you structure your clay in such a way that the pivot, lock area of the tang, and the part of the tang that hits the stop pin are all hardened, too? I've thought about that a lot and I assume that those areas need to be as hard as the edge or they will wear out, or is that a non-issue?

The pivot area and the entire tang weren't clay-coated at all. Some of the hamon seems to cross into the tang area. Its very hard to see and I'm not actually sure if it properly hardened or is "half-hardened." When finishing the lockbar contact area, it seemed more wear resistant than the spine of the blade to hand sanding with wet and dry. Thats now a detail to add to my "to-do" list for the next blade with a hamon ! Thanks for pointing that out. Jason.

 

[Burchtree]

Very nice!!! I've been wanting to do a "hamon" folder for a bit but there's been something I've been missing . . . . oh yeah, it's skill!!

 

[Chiro75]

Burch, at least you're just missing the skill. I'm missing the skill AND the tools! Although I found another knifeknerd in my town who has a water-cooled milling machine that he offered to let me use, so that may all change! (Don't hold your breath). I was hoping I'd be the first for a while to do a clay coated folder like that, but Jason beat me to it. :grumpy: Oh well. Now I have something i can copy!