Liner lock blues - any suggestions?

B

ballenagris

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Jan 24, 2006
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I've just bought a Lone Wolf Harse T2 tanto. I like the handle, the CPMS30V blade, but the liner lock slips. I was practicing with it this morning, and the liner lock started slipping. This knife is way sharp, and I don't want to cut myself, so I called the internet knife store, but it turns out that since I've sharpened it, they can't swap it out, because it's used :barf: . Okay, I'm a newbie, and there is a learning curve. I want to get a better knife with a more secure manner of locking the blade. Strider and Extreme Ratio are two knives I'm looking at, but does anyone have any suggestions on other comparable knives that are worth looking at? A price range of 250-600 dollars is what I'm thinking of. A custom blade is a good idea, but I need some input to consider. So, everyone has an opinion, and I'm asking the denizens of this list to give me some suggestions. You know, a high end tactical folder that can actually be used, and be trusted.:thumbup:
 
I'm going to send it back for warranty repair, but I want to get a knife that has a better locking system.
 
CRK Sebenza, Strider SNG's, Darrell Ralph, Combat Elite, Spyderco D'Allara 2, Buck/Mayo TNT, and R.Hinderer knives. I am a huge fan of framelocks. I also very much like the Benchmade Axis lock, as well as the Spyderco D'Allara 2's ball bearing lock.
 
The T2 is a top quality knife with a top quality lock. You got a defect.

A lot of people are down on liner locks, but when done right, they are very strong, high-quality locks.

Not buying anymore liner locks just because you got one defect would be folly.

Liner locks get so much bad "press" because so many cheapo knives use them, and do them wrong.

Granted, they are probably not the most stable lock, nor the easiest to do right. Getting a liner lock perfect is tough as the angle of the tang has to be just so.

If you want something better, the framelock has a lot of advantages. It offers more contact area to the tang (usually), and when held in a tight grip will tend to lock tighter rather than unlock. The Axis lock (and similar locks) are great too. The Axis lock is very easy to open and close with one hand, and can be closed without your fingers being in the way of the blade at any point.

But don't quit the liner lock just yet. Try a non-defect T2. Try the SERE 2000. Try a titanium liner lock Emerson. These knives all use liner locks, but they are highly respected knives and offer a very strong lock.

Just as you got a defect liner lock, there are also defect lockbacks (someone posted a thread about a defect lockback ER MPC on this forum a day or two ago). Defect Axis locks. Defect framelocks. Defect Compression locks etc...
 
I agree with Hair!! I would send it back for repair or replacement. PS: YOu shouldn't start 2 threads on the same subject,
 
No kidding, when I went to post it, the screenfroze for a while, and I thought I'd lost the post, so I hit the button again. OOOPS, my bad.
 
I replied in the thread that was lost in the dust,LOL!!!
 
There's nothing wrong with a good 'ol fashion lock-back, like the Spyderco Chinook or Manix, or the Cabela's Alaskan Guide Buck 110.

And you will never need to use a screwdriver to pry loose a locked-up frame-lock or liner-lock.

The Axis-lock is awesome too!

Good luck,
Allen.
 
I will agree with Hair about the liner locks. I will also add that Benchmade makdes THE best liner locks in the business in my opinion. With that said I have a problem with my 910 disengaging when I squeeze it real tight like I would if I were about to be in a fight.

So even the best liner locks can fail depending on the size of the persons hands and their grip.

I'm a 240lb guy and I'm 6'2" and I have large hands. The 910 I have may not fail for a guy who is 175lb and has average hands. The thing is you never can tell.

After experiencing this with my own 910 that was brand new in the box I've decided to learn from it. I will never buy another liner lock.

Frame locks can be better because as you squeeze you mash the frame deeper onto the tang. They can be iffy at times too depending on the grip.

Lockbacks with the Boye Dent, Axis locks, Compressions locks, Ball Locks, Arc Locks, etc are all fine in my book. The liner stinks.

This is all my opinion but I have formed it through real experience. I'm glad I learned. :)
 
Joe, I'm a service plumber. I have heavily muscled arms and forearms from the work that I do, so, yeah, I'm surely squeezing the grip. Speaking of which, I have a BM 910 also, but I don't consider it to be a good knife for a feces storm, because, if it's wet, minimal grip. Repeat after me, minimal grip:barf:. Started looking around seriously last night, and came up with a promising canidate by R J Martin - Avenger spearpoint CPMS30V - I'm trying to find out what type of framelock is used on the blade, I emailed a query and we'll see. It seems that a lot of folks are making knives that aren't really suited to be called tactical, IMO. The Lone Wolf T2 has a great blade, and a great handle, but once a piece of equipment fails, I don't need the distraction of a future failure.
 
No way to repair slipping liner lock?

Hi, all,
From what I've read on this post, it appears there's no hope for a liner lock once it's started slipping. Say it ain't so! I have THREE liner locks that all started slipping at the same time, as if choreographed. Weird.
Is there no fixing such a knife? I've tried bending the tang stop or locking mechanism with a small screwdriver, but have had no luck. Seems to me the blade itself needs to be forced down lower in the frame, in order to make the thing work as before. But how does one do that?
Of course, the knives in question are bottom-of-the-line Frost tacticals: the mighty Silver Talon. They all worked great when new, then suddenly all three started slipping--even though they were purchased 2 years apart. Again, very strange.
Maybe I ought to just chuck the junk and buy something decent, eh?
How about the Tri-AD locking system on Cold Steel's Espada series? Any opinions?
Thanks in advance,

All best,
NovelsRus
 
I'm going to send it back for warranty repair, but I want to get a knife that has a better locking system.
Click to expand...

As several others have replied, there is nothing wrong with a proper liner lock. For example, the one on the Spyderco Military is widely regarded as one of the most dependable locks ever. I think you were unlucky and the manufacturer (who have a good reputation) will surely fix it for you. I had the same issue with an older Böker and that company also fixed it quickly.

It is true that you press a framelock inwards when using the knife hard, which adds to the security. On the other hand they are usually less smooth to open than a liner lock. I am also not convinced that a framelock is intrinsically sturdier than a decent liner lock. I THINK (not talking from personal experience) that the area that will give under extreme load is not the part touching the blade, but the thinner milled section of the locking bar. Tension is highest there, and there the lockbar is typically not thicker than a heavy use liner lock. Lock specialists, feel free to prove me wrong if needed!
 
One thing I have found out about sliping linerlocks is that the locking liner usually does not have enough bend in it and is not strong/stiff enough hold against the pressure. Now this is not always the cause, but is one that I have found.

I agree with Hair about a qualty linerlock being as safe as otherlocks, and that ll's got a bad rap from all the cheaply done ones. This is one of the easiest locks to manufacture, but harder to manufacture correctly, well not harder,but requires more QC.
 
I have a couple of liner locks from David Mosier that feel as strong as any frame lock I have, If done right the are secure.
 
i would get yours fixed.

nothing at all wrong with a well fitted, well designed and executed liner lock, some of the finest custom combat folders on the planet are liner locks.

if ya must have something else, look at frame locks, compression locks (spyderco) or BM's axis,
 
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