Liner Lock Replacement

RevDevil

RevDevil

Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
44,314
So I have this CQC8 Horseman and the liner lock is starting to travel over to the right a little too far for my comfort, around the 75% area. Can I send the knife in and pay to have a new liner lock put in?
I am unfamiliar with the warranty so I just want to ask those that know.
Thanks!:)
 
In my experience Emerson just adjusts the old lock but my knife was a discontinued model back when I mailed one in to them. It never hurts to ask though.

STR
 
RevDevil said:
So I have this CQC8 Horseman and the liner lock is starting to travel over to the right a little too far for my comfort, around the 75% area. Can I send the knife in and pay to have a new liner lock put in?
I am unfamiliar with the warranty so I just want to ask those that know.
Thanks!:)
Click to expand...

You many find they won't do it and they won't do it under warranty as 75% lock up is still with in spec. Once the
lock hits +90% I would start to have concerns but even then if there is no play then it's still a sound lock up.

You never know though, they may just humour you and do it any way.
 
haze is correct, 75% is in spec & i have had a LL which went all the way over and still locked up fine, i'm sure EKI would adjust it for ya, as far as under warranty, i still would say yes they probably would at least adjust it for ya, or replace the LL if it requires it under warranty, if all it needs is adjustment i wouldnt pay for a new LL myself.
 
stevenkelby said:
How do they adjust a LL?
Click to expand...

The most common way is usually to peen the lock bar just behind the lock face.
You can put a fatter stop pin in but that causes other problems you have to fix as well.

:):thumbup:
 
Haze said:
The most common way is usually to peen the lock bar just behind the lock face.
You can put a fatter stop pin in but that causes other problems you have to fix as well.

:):thumbup:
Click to expand...

Thanks, I never would have figured that out :) Just smash it to make it stick out further, simple!
 
stevenkelby said:
Thanks, I never would have figured that out :) Just smash it to make it stick out further, simple!
Click to expand...

Not really. It has to be in the correct spot on the lock or you could really screw it up worse and you have to know how much the lock can take before it cracks from a whack far too hard or you can ruin it altogether by cracking or shattering the lock face. It is easy to take it too far and thats the difference between a lay person doing it and someone that is an experienced person having done it before and equipped with the right tools to do it. Emerson has that. A qualified cutler should do the adjustment.

STR
 
STR said:
Not really. It has to be in the correct spot on the lock or you could really screw it up worse and you have to know how much the lock can take before it cracks from a whack far too hard or you can ruin it altogether by cracking or shattering the lock face. It is easy to take it too far and thats the difference between a lay person doing it and someone that is an experienced person having done it before and equipped with the right tools to do it. Emerson has that. A qualified cutler should do the adjustment.

STR
Click to expand...

Indeed :thumbup:
 
Just start beating it with a sledge hammer! Just kidding ;-p

I would be okay with 75 percent myself :)
 
STR said:
Not really. It has to be in the correct spot on the lock or you could really screw it up worse and you have to know how much the lock can take before it cracks from a whack far too hard or you can ruin it altogether by cracking or shattering the lock face. It is easy to take it too far and thats the difference between a lay person doing it and someone that is an experienced person having done it before and equipped with the right tools to do it. Emerson has that. A qualified cutler should do the adjustment.

STR
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, I didn't mean I would try it myself though :)

I meant the method is simple, if not the execution ;)
 
If guys say 75% is good, then it's cool with me. So another question- are the liners titanium as some have said or just hardended stainless?
 
RevDevil said:
If guys say 75% is good, then it's cool with me. So another question- are the liners titanium as some have said or just hardended stainless?
Click to expand...

The lock side is titanium and the non-lock side liner is stainless steel (on all models now ?). The "vintage" :p EKIs were Ti on both sides.
 
i think all are SS/ti now, but ya never know LOL, they went back and forth for a while, i know that.
 
Another question - my CQC8 bit me last week as I was pulling it out of my pocket. I found the detent is not what it used to be. First time I noticed it. The pivot is tight, but not enough to rip my pants off when I take the knife out (thankfully lol). So how does one go about replacing the detent ball if one were so inclined?
 
RevDevil said:
Another question - my CQC8 bit me last week as I was pulling it out of my pocket. I found the detent is not what it used to be. First time I noticed it. The pivot is tight, but not enough to rip my pants off when I take the knife out (thankfully lol). So how does one go about replacing the detent ball if one were so inclined?
Click to expand...

The new 300 series stainless side that contains the detent does not have the same memory that the old ti ones had. As a result it is easy for the new (2007 and after) models with stainless liners for the non lock side to need reset. I've had guys report to me that they noticed the detent didn't seem to grab anymore after the first time they took their knife apart to clean it. What I think happens, and I say this because it happened with my own, is that when and if you take the non lock side liner off and set it down flat on a table you can can actually push on it hard enough doing that to reset the tension of the detent tab. So, in my opinion its a good idea when you clean your 2007 or later EKI knives to check that tab for proper tension by noting before disassembly how it feels, and noting how it looks before setting it down so that you can adjust it back to the same before re-assembling the folder.

I use a small screw driver to push the tab in just a bit. It may not be the best way to do it but its worked for me and I can only say do so with caution and control so you don't push it in too far or get carried away and tweak it good. It doesn't take much to make it move at all on these new stainless models.

STR
 
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