- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 12,955
I get many contacts about my frame lock conversions and from folks initially very interested in it after seeing pictures of ones I have done for others but then they hear the price and even with my attempt to remain one of the lesser expensive options available for people they decide otherwise due to the cost. Never hurts to ask I always say. One of the main concerns and reasons behind contacting me in the first place is usually regarding lock security and reliability. Very seldom is a strong lock mentioned as why they need it as a frame lock or want it that way.
In the industry you will hear and read many makers say that frame locks are better because of the fact that you can get your fingers to actually come into contact with the lock preventing travel to release the lock. I've found this to be true also.
For those that are asking for a quote for a frame lock conversion upgrade simply for the relibility concerns of their liner lock there is an alternative method but it can be argued to be a liability on one hand and something good on the other. Ernie Emerson thinks this is a liability but Bob Terzuola uses this same feature on some of his tactical liner locks among other makers. Personally I feel the liner lock is a liability to begin with regardless of this modification but most folks already know my thoughts on liner locks.
Now first and foremost I need to say, read the warranty of your particular knife. BenchMade and other companies void the warranty once a knife they made is taken apart so if this is an issue for you don't go there. This modification will certainly void your warranty too.
If you want to make your liner lock more secure I'd recommend a frame lock conversion but if that is not an option to help secure the lock up better from sliding off the lock during high pressure maneuvers you can opt to try this modification. What happens is that it opens the lock to the index much the way you can do with any bare side frame lock. But truthfully I don't much care for it but I have done it to members knives if the locks were made of a frame lock thickness and not too thin like on this folder pictured. I warned the owner of this knife against this modification but he opted to go for it anyway.
First picture is a factory CQC14 by Emerson Knives Inc. Second is a CQC14 conversion to a frame lock I did in .160 thickness titanium beside this factory model with the .050 liner lock and G10 scale blocking the lock from the index finger as is typical of all liner locks with the exception of a few done by some very good makers like Bob Terzuola and Chris Reeves. If you look at the Mnandi by Reeve you can see the top of the lock is exposed much like a frame lock is.
The frame lock conversion can run anywhere from $185 to $250 depending on the knife and the thickness of the titanium among other things like additional options, the size of the folder in question and handle material on the non lock side.
Or the quick fix like shown here for the minimum shop fee of $30 from me if I will even do it for you since it depends on the knife. You can also do this at home with a little ingenuity but again I warn you. Read the warranty.
Third picture is showing once the liner and lock have been removed. Using a thin lead pencil you mark where your outline of the lock is so you don't cut out an area or sand out an area you don't want to. Be sure to mark with the pencil on the smooth surface on the inside as getting pencil marks out of that grooving can be impossible without bead blasting.
Once marked you can either cut this with a scroll saw, or as I did with my KMG grinder, use a small wheel attatchment to simply sand it down. G10 machines wonderfully well. Turn on your exhaust fans and wear a respirator though no matter how you do it. Then after its cut out, trim with a fine sanding drum on a 1/2" dremmel attatchment or by hand and put it back on after hand rubbing the finish. Total time about 20 minutes.
The fourth picture shows the end result. Yours can be less deep, slightly deeper or longer and of course final bevel and trim is up to you. I did this one for the customer as ordered. I recommended allowing me to take more G10 down to allow both the index and the middle and ring fingers to get on the lock too because I feel that is better than just the one finger but he wanted this and only this.
The last picture shows the same shot as the first only after the modification to expose the lock for physical contact with the index finger.
Sorry if the fist shot is washed out. I hit the wrong filter and saved it too late. It should show what you need to see though.
STR
In the industry you will hear and read many makers say that frame locks are better because of the fact that you can get your fingers to actually come into contact with the lock preventing travel to release the lock. I've found this to be true also.
For those that are asking for a quote for a frame lock conversion upgrade simply for the relibility concerns of their liner lock there is an alternative method but it can be argued to be a liability on one hand and something good on the other. Ernie Emerson thinks this is a liability but Bob Terzuola uses this same feature on some of his tactical liner locks among other makers. Personally I feel the liner lock is a liability to begin with regardless of this modification but most folks already know my thoughts on liner locks.
Now first and foremost I need to say, read the warranty of your particular knife. BenchMade and other companies void the warranty once a knife they made is taken apart so if this is an issue for you don't go there. This modification will certainly void your warranty too.
If you want to make your liner lock more secure I'd recommend a frame lock conversion but if that is not an option to help secure the lock up better from sliding off the lock during high pressure maneuvers you can opt to try this modification. What happens is that it opens the lock to the index much the way you can do with any bare side frame lock. But truthfully I don't much care for it but I have done it to members knives if the locks were made of a frame lock thickness and not too thin like on this folder pictured. I warned the owner of this knife against this modification but he opted to go for it anyway.
First picture is a factory CQC14 by Emerson Knives Inc. Second is a CQC14 conversion to a frame lock I did in .160 thickness titanium beside this factory model with the .050 liner lock and G10 scale blocking the lock from the index finger as is typical of all liner locks with the exception of a few done by some very good makers like Bob Terzuola and Chris Reeves. If you look at the Mnandi by Reeve you can see the top of the lock is exposed much like a frame lock is.
The frame lock conversion can run anywhere from $185 to $250 depending on the knife and the thickness of the titanium among other things like additional options, the size of the folder in question and handle material on the non lock side.
Or the quick fix like shown here for the minimum shop fee of $30 from me if I will even do it for you since it depends on the knife. You can also do this at home with a little ingenuity but again I warn you. Read the warranty.
Third picture is showing once the liner and lock have been removed. Using a thin lead pencil you mark where your outline of the lock is so you don't cut out an area or sand out an area you don't want to. Be sure to mark with the pencil on the smooth surface on the inside as getting pencil marks out of that grooving can be impossible without bead blasting.
Once marked you can either cut this with a scroll saw, or as I did with my KMG grinder, use a small wheel attatchment to simply sand it down. G10 machines wonderfully well. Turn on your exhaust fans and wear a respirator though no matter how you do it. Then after its cut out, trim with a fine sanding drum on a 1/2" dremmel attatchment or by hand and put it back on after hand rubbing the finish. Total time about 20 minutes.
The fourth picture shows the end result. Yours can be less deep, slightly deeper or longer and of course final bevel and trim is up to you. I did this one for the customer as ordered. I recommended allowing me to take more G10 down to allow both the index and the middle and ring fingers to get on the lock too because I feel that is better than just the one finger but he wanted this and only this.
The last picture shows the same shot as the first only after the modification to expose the lock for physical contact with the index finger.
Sorry if the fist shot is washed out. I hit the wrong filter and saved it too late. It should show what you need to see though.
STR