Liner..thick enough?

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Nternal

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I have seen some really large,thick bladed folding knives but with a liner that at least on paper seems thin. For a really thick blade like say 2/16" -3/16" would a 1/16" liner be good? I'm talking about for heavy duty or tactical use.
 
Yes, it is fine, for liners or even as a liner lock.

What sort of "tactical" use do you imagine having?
 
CWL said:
Yes, it is fine, for liners or even as a liner lock.

What sort of "tactical" use do you imagine having?
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Yeah actually I meant as a lock I should have specified. Well I guess my question would be would it survive a hard stab or maybe even batoning through wood. I know that a tri-ad or backlock would survive it but a standard liner lock I'm not sure.
 
Nternal said:
Yeah actually I meant as a lock I should have specified. Well I guess my question would be would it survive a hard stab or maybe even batoning through wood. I know that a tri-ad or backlock would survive it but a standard liner lock I'm not sure.
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Look at Emerson's line of tactical folders.

I have had a lot of liner locks over the years , some of them I would not trust for hard chores , including penetrating anything too tough.

My Emerson's fit the bill nicely , I have total confidence in them. It is much more in the engineering of the overall knife than thickness of the liner. IMO.

Tostig
 
For heavy duty tactical stabbing, a 1/8 inch thick linerlock is the bare minimum. I prefer 5/32.

Another thing...you can baton with a slipjoint if your technique is correct, but for heavy duty tactical batonning, you'll want that 5/32.

Or...call me crazy...you can get one of these newfangled "fixed" blades that are coming out lately.
 
marcinek said:
For heavy duty tactical stabbing, a 1/8 inch thick linerlock is the bare minimum. I prefer 5/32.

Another thing...you can baton with a slipjoint if your technique is correct, but for heavy duty tactical batonning, you'll want that 5/32.

Or...call me crazy...you can get one of these newfangled "fixed" blades that are coming out lately.
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Hahahahahaha :thumbup:
 
marcinek said:
For heavy duty tactical stabbing, a 1/8 inch thick linerlock is the bare minimum. I prefer 5/32.

Another thing...you can baton with a slipjoint if your technique is correct, but for heavy duty tactical batonning, you'll want that 5/32.

Or...call me crazy...you can get one of these newfangled "fixed" blades that are coming out lately.
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I love sarcasm. :thumbup:
 
marcinek said:
I hate it! :D

It just seems to me if you performing a task that makes you worry about your folder's lock failing (whatever kind of lock that is)...then that task demands a fixed blade.
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That is true but if the folder in question suggests it's a "tactical" hard use knife than I think it should be able to do certain tasks.I like the funny post but I would rather if we stick with the actual topic. I would like to know if most think it is thick enough not if I should use a fixed blade,etc. I know a fixed blade is always ideal with such things.
 
Just because it's labeled as tactical doesn't mean it's hard use. Tactical these days gets tossed around and bastardized to no end in the knife world. A knife can be tactical because it has a black blade, serrations, and a tanto tip. Let's not forget a skull crusher on the pommel.

I would be less concerned about liner thickness than I would be with lock engineering. Linerlocks vary from maker to maker. Some are really good, others not so much. And what exactly is a hard stab? Car door? I wouldn't stab anything hard with any locking knife short of a balisong with the latch engaged. That is just asking for trouble. All it takes is one mistake and you get cut. One application of torque in the wrong direction and the knife unlocks. Of course I say that because my higher educational background is firmly based in physics.

But, if you want and have to in a pinch, I'd look into the tried and true knives that have been reviewed countless times as hard use.
 
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I'll keep quiet what I think about the words "tactical" and "hard use" and I think that batoning is almost useless in the true outdoors, but I will share the proper technique for batoning lumber with a folding knife.

You don't lock the blade but keep it loose on the pivot when banging on it. This is much easier on the pivot, locks and any other part that may fail.
 
Nternal said:
That is true but if the folder in question suggests it's a "tactical" hard use knife than I think it should be able to do certain tasks.I like the funny post but I would rather if we stick with the actual topic. I would like to know if most think it is thick enough not if I should use a fixed blade,etc. I know a fixed blade is always ideal with such things.
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Well...if the folder "...suggests it's a "tactical" hard use knife..." then its liner should be plenty strong for stabbing. When a knife says "tactical"...it's not just some marketing ploy, you know?!?

But I'd go with a fixed blade knife, rather than a "pre-broken" knife.

What's your batonning method?
 
harkamus said:
I would be less concerned about liner thickness than I would be with lock engineering. Linerlocks vary from maker to maker. Some are really good, others not so much. And what exactly is a hard stab? Car door? I wouldn't stab anything hard with any locking knife short of a balisong with the latch engaged. That is just asking for trouble. All it takes is one mistake and you get cut. One application of torque in the wrong direction and the knife unlocks. Of course I say that because my higher educational background is firmly based in physics.
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And, apparently, common sense! :thumbup:
 
If you want to stab, batton or beat on a folder..
I would say
Lock Back
Compression
Axis...
They all work great for me..
Matt
 
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