Liners on a full tang blade

jdm61

jdm61

itinerant metal pounder
Joined
Aug 12, 2005
Messages
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How do you guys shape the vulcanized fiber liners on a full tang knife with no guard up where it meets the ricasso? Do you glue the liner material to the scales and then shape and fully finish the front of the scales?
 
I use Gorilla super glue to glue the liners to the handle material. Clamp it for a firm hold. Once they are set, I clamp both scales together and shape the front on the belt grinder. I attach one side at a time to the tang working with retangle shape scales. Once attached to the tang, I cut the excess off on the bandsaw once the glue is set enough. Then I attach the other side and clamp for 24 hours.
Scott
 
That's how I do it too but would recommend the thin G10 liners from AKS over vulcanized as I have had vulcanized liners shrink. G10 will not.
 
Vulcanized fiber is a horrid knife handle liner. Shrinking and swelling constantly. McMaster-Carr has very thin micarta, and other phenolic liners, and so do AKS. If you've not been bit by vulcanized fiber yet, you will be.
 
What Fiddleback said. Almost anything is better than vulcanized fiber. Why it continues to be sold as "the" liner material is beyond me.

I've been advised to treat the edges of vulc with super glue after finishing but I have enough steps to goof up as it is :o

Anyway, yes make a laminate of your scales and liner material and fully shape and polish the fronts before assembly.
 
Vulcanized liners are plastic "soaked" and epoxy doesn't really bond to plastic. Super glue the liner to the scales then make sure to drill holes through the liner to the scales to assure proper glue-up.

That doesn't answer your question but it should be helpful. :D
 
IT SHRINKS!?!?!? This would have been helpful to know two knives ago. Better late than never. I glued them all together then used a razor knife to trim them.
 
More appropriately, it shifts. It's just not stable. Just about any liner material that I'm using gets glued to the scale.

I've never heard that epoxy doesn't bond to plastic. Lots of epoxies are made for bonding plastics, however, my understanding of vulcanized material is that it is nearly 100% cellulose, minus your colorant. This is why it shifts with humidity.
 
You can read about vulcanized fiber at mcmaster Carr. Search for fish paper. That is the industrial name.
 
I haven't had any issues with the vulcanized fiber material. I've had it on a hunting knife for about 3 years. It's been soaked in blood, wet, in the hot sun, cold temps and humid conditions. I glue the material to the scales all around the edges and grind off any excess. It's works well for me.
Scott
 
I guess the underlying question is why liners at all, other than that they look nice? I am asking these question because, aside from a couple of test knives, I have never made a full tang knife and the test knives had horse stall mat handles and no liners.
 
Loveless referred to his liners as "A little lipstick on a pretty girl." I especially like the contrast provided by a dark liner between polished steel and a light-colored handle such as orange G10 or light wood like maple, or light liners between blued steel and a dark handle. They really show off a nice tapered tang.

I don't think they really serve a structural purpose.

I will sheepishly admit that I've also used them to mask a not-quite-straight/flat tang or scale, too. Sort of like a gasket, they can "smooth out" a ding if you don;t really want to take a few thou off the whole darn thing.
 
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