Liners/Spacers - Your thoughts on function and Materials

B

barretc

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Sep 14, 2011
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Ok, I am very new to making anything related to a knife. I have mostly been modifying what I own. But I wanted to start with a few re-handle projects as well as maybe a few assembled knives out of blade blanks + materials.

What I never see much of any theory or concept behind handle Liners or spacers? Can some of you shed light on your thoughts? While I have seen some reference to thin Micarta or G10 liners, most of what I see at knife supply places are vulcanized fiber.

So, what do you consider important to know about liners/spacers in handle construction? All form? Any particular material for particular function?

Personally, I am thinking of just ordering an array of samples and try them out for myself, but its always intersting to hear individual makers opinions and thoughts.

Thanks
B
 
The way I see it, liners and spacers are knife "bling." You don't really need them for a functional handle but they can really dress one up and make it look nice. As far as type goes, the vulcanized fiber has been around for a long time but now I will only use micarta, G-10, recon stone etc. because I have been advised by several makers more knowledgeable than myself that the vulcanized fiber will breakdown over time.

Kevin
 
"Vulcanized fiber" flat-out sucks (literally). I refuse to use it or even have it in my shop, because it shrinks/swells with every change in the weather and has caused me far more trouble than it's worth. One knife with vulcanized fiber liners that comes back because the fit is horrible, and needs to be re-sanded or rebuilt, can set you back a days' or weeks' wages.

Some makers claim fibrous spacers/liners are just fine... I can only assume those knives are kept in a humidor and never used.

G10 doesn't shrink or swell. Period.
 
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I've had my share of vulcanized fiber shrink and swell both----- but not any more than some very high
priced organic handle materials in almost every category except shell. Blood, water, and entrails are pretty
much a way of life for the knives I use in addittion to all the "normal" knife things. For that matter a fair
amount of man made stuff seems to shrink and swell.
Ken.
 
I've been wondering about another aspect of the question of liners, that of thickness. I've always thought thin was aesthetically more pleasing than thick, but am starting to question that premise.

Jon McCargar (jonnymac44) often uses liners so thick they're almost thicker than the scales. His recent "I love to photograph orange G-10" thread in the Custom forum is a case in point. I've been trying to understand why it those thick liners work so well. There is subtle balance in thickness proportions of the scales, liners and tang ratios that pull it together. Color selection--balance, compliment and contrast--must be a factor. Texture, crisp fit and lines obviously play a role too.

Another study might be another recent very cool knife in the Custom forum, Ben Tendick's (BenR.T.) "Caramel Apple Swayback". I absolutely love the knife, but the liners don't quite come together in the same way for me. I can't put my finger on it though. The scales, liners and tang thickness ratios are slightly different. The scales don't taper and thin out at the edges as much. The color compliment/contrast value is different too.

There are soooo many other examples of thickness and color selections. Thin red and/or black liners seem to be fairly traditional, if that's the right word. Loveless comes to mind.

As is usually the case when it comes to style and aesthetics, it is a personal issue, yet there do often seem to be common values shared across a collective consciousness too.
 
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Vulcanized fiber has been used for many years. It will swell/shrink.
It will absorb super glue, and the glue will stabilize it.
 
Phil Dwyer said:
I've been wondering about another aspect of the question of liners, that of thickness. I've always thought thin was aesthetically more pleasing than thick, but am starting to question that premise.

Jon McCargar (jonnymac44) often uses liners so thick they're almost thicker than the scales. His recent "I love to photograph orange G-10" thread in the Custom forum is a case in point. I've been trying to understand why it those thick liners work so well. There is subtle balance in thickness proportions of the scales, liners and tang ratios that pull it together. Color selection--balance, compliment and contrast--must be a factor. Texture, crisp fit and lines obviously play a role too.

Another study might be another recent very cool knife in the Custom forum, Ben Tendick's (BenR.T.) "Caramel Apple Swayback". I absolutely love the knife, but the liners don't quite come together in the same way for me. I can't put my finger on it though. The scales, liners and tang thickness ratios are slightly different. The scales don't taper and thin out at the edges as much. The color compliment/contrast value is different too.

There are soooo many other examples of thickness and color selections. Thin red and/or black liners seem to be fairly traditional, if that's the right word. Loveless comes to mind.

As is usually the case when it comes to style and aesthetics, it is a personal issue, yet there do often seem to be common values shared across a collective consciousness too.
Click to expand...

Phil, glad you like the look I'm going for. Without sounding too technical, the balance of the thickness of liner material I use is no accident. I spend a lot of time sizing things up and experimenting to get the "right" look. I agree with you that thin black and red liners are very traditional, which is why I've tried to do something different than that whenever possible. Not because thin red or black liners don't look great, just because I want my knives to have their own look and be unmistakeably mine.

As far as the OP's question goes, I will agree with others....do not waste your time or money on vulcanized/fiber liner material. Stick to G-10 and micarta and you will not have any issues as long as you use your epoxy properly.
 
No vulcanized fiber spacer for me, either. If I put liners on a knife, I use thin G10.
 
You betcha. Check out Dave Kelly's stuff...

Here are a couple shots of one his amazing knives, Work-in-Progress-Sambar-Stag-Utility...

orig.jpg


orig.jpg
 
hi all.
i will preface this to say i am no knifemaker. but, i have a couple blades i will be putting handles on. i like the looks of liners myself. and i have a question similar to OP and that is, "Is there any downside to having spacers/liners?"

as i think about it...just logically speaking, in general the more parts...the more potential "breaking points" (so to speak). i.e. different materials will react to conditions differently ... so with more materials, there would be more risk of the fit diminishing. so, if there are two contact points per side (handle to liner, liner to metal)....is that a real concern? or should i just stop thinking so much?

many of the knifemakers i see currently (makers whose work i respect and admire) use spacers/liners....so again, logic would tell me that if they aren't worried about it, then i shouldn't be either.

but, as i said...i've been wondering and i happened to stumble across this thread...so figured i would ask.

thanks.
 
Liners.......all shapes, sizes, and colors! I've made very few knives without them. The possibilities are endless.

To the OP, have fun with it!:thumbup:

HandleMaterial016.jpg
 
Might be a silly question but whats the best way to add the spacer? Do you glue it to the scale and when thats set glue it to the knife or just do it all at once when assembling the handle?
 
Bordo said:
Might be a silly question but whats the best way to add the spacer? Do you glue it to the scale and when thats set glue it to the knife or just do it all at once when assembling the handle?
Click to expand...

In my experience, it's much easier to glue twice. You will make a hot mess of your knife project trying to do it all at once. First, get your liners glued up to your handle slabs, making them one piece. Then you can attach them to your tang like they are one piece. Much easier, in my opinion.
 
jonnymac44 said:
In my experience, it's much easier to glue twice.
Click to expand...

I agree. Also, on a full-tang bolsterless knife, you have to glue-up the scales and liners first anyway, so you can shape/sand the fronts before final assembly.
 
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