linseed oil

boerboel84

boerboel84

Joined
Aug 10, 2010
Messages
160
helo everybody.

i boght linseed oil for my handle today but it is not the boiled type.
whats the differense between boiled and not boiled?

thanks
 
Boiled linseed oil (BLO) will "dry" quicker than plain linseed oil. BLO sold in the USA these days is generally not boiled but has solvents and heavy metals (typically cobalt) added as drying agents. These toxic additives are usually listed on the product's MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) even if they don't appear on the product container label. Linseed oil without these additives can be found for woodworking (it's essentially flax seed oil, which can also be used), however the drying time is longer and more applications may be needed.
 
have somebody used liberon finishing oil? the lady in the store sead it was mutch chinese wood oil in it?
 
You can also look into Orange oil, I use it often when making furniture to help enrich the color. Some woods it will darken quite a bit and give a nice good saturated color, others it will just make them glow.

I have to say I love what it did with the saatisal when used just as my linseed oil finished drying. The only unfortunate part of it is that the selection of wood I got was too dark (it was almost black) to have enough color to bring out, but the little bits of color that are there glow really well. My knife now has a very dark red pigment with little hints of yellow-orange, almost like a burnt American Red Cedar.
 
ftiw, I've been getting nice results with walnut oil, I think it runs ~$12 or 13 for a pint of Mahoney's at Woodcraft (got my last for under $10 on sale, flyers aren't just free fodder for the wood stove). It's food safe if that matters to you, and soaks into hardwoods pretty well, brings out the grain and hardens into a nice satiny luster. Mahoney's is filtered and won't go rancid on you (one problem with some unboiled natural oils), not sure how the stuff sold for consumption (makes a nice vinaigrette) would do over the long haul as a wood treatment. It also mixes well with bee's wax if you want a harder finish.
 
I actually prefer regular linseed oil, you can micromanage the finish easier. Tung Oil and Birchwood Casey Gunstock Wax are also good alternatives.
 
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