Lion steel with sleipner steel

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Nov 25, 2012
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Are these good hard use folders? I work in pipefitting, and I'm trying to find a good, inexpensive folder that can take a beating to alternate carry with my Hinderer in S35VN steel. I do a lot of cutting old insulation, cardboard boxes, tape, zip ties, rubber hose, and other tubing. The blade will frequently come into contact with copper, brass, pvc and even steel. So far I'm thinking of picking up a Spyderco Gayle Bradley in M4 steel.
 
If you're wanting a beater with good steel get a full size Ritter Grip w/ M390. I do hvac service work and use one from time to time without worry.
 
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Are these good hard use folders? I work in pipefitting, and I'm trying to find a good, inexpensive folder that can take a beating to alternate carry with my Hinderer in S35VN steel. I do a lot of cutting old insulation, cardboard boxes, tape, zip ties, rubber hose, and other tubing. The blade will frequently come into contact with copper, brass, pvc and even steel. So far I'm thinking of picking up a Spyderco Gayle Bradley in M4 steel.

Couple things:

1. Contact with metal is never good. No blade steel likes to have its fine edge smacked into other hard surfaces. Avoid it if you don't like chipping and rolling.

2. Are you saying that your hinderer isnt tough enough to handle the tasks? If so, then Im not sure what you could buy that would be more capable. Those knives are made tough as hell, so they SHOULD be able to handle everything you need them to do. But again, you shouldn't expect the edge to come into contact with other hard surfaces and be completely unscathed. However, as long as you don't abuse it, I would think the hinderer would be plenty tough enough.

3. But if you're hell bent on getting another less expensive folder to beat on, I would take a look at the BM Contego. Big, beefy, badass, and with M4 steel. I have one, and it's a damn fine knife for the money. Got it used for 70 bucks! It can sure take a beating
 
Couple things:

1. Contact with metal is never good. No blade steel likes to have its fine edge smacked into other hard surfaces. Avoid it if you don't like chipping and rolling.

2. Are you saying that your hinderer isnt tough enough to handle the tasks? If so, then Im not sure what you could buy that would be more capable. Those knives are made tough as hell, so they SHOULD be able to handle everything you need them to do. But again, you shouldn't expect the edge to come into contact with other hard surfaces and be completely unscathed. However, as long as you don't abuse it, I would think the hinderer would be plenty tough enough.

3. But if you're hell bent on getting another less expensive folder to beat on, I would take a look at the BM Contego. Big, beefy, badass, and with M4 steel. I have one, and it's a damn fine knife for the money. Got it used for 70 bucks! It can sure take a beating
Not at all, my Hinderers have done excellent on the job. I'd prefer something less expensive with comparable overall toughness and edge holding ability. I never purposely hit my knife on other metals, but it happens. I'm seriously considering the Gayle Bradley with its M4 steel right now...
 
Utility knife. What you are describing is a little beyond hard use and goes into abuse.
 
My milspec hest with sleipner would have rust spotting on the blade after a few days of pocket carry and minimal use. Constantly had to oil it and scrub off the spots.
 
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From all the reviews regarding Sleipner steel, rust seems to be a major problem...
[video=youtube;-WtN0BIDZas]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WtN0BIDZas[/video]
 
Lionsteels are good hard use folders, those made for it anyway. They make the DPx HEST line of which I have a few. One of them is Sleipner. It's great stuff. I think it's a little harder than a lot of my steels too, It might come in around 60-61. Haven't had a problem with it and edge retention has been great. I'd rate it at least a click above D-2 in that category. Never experienced any chipping in hard outdoor use, even at extremely low temps. Rumor is it's a bit subject to staining but I look at that like the rumor that D-2 rusts so easily.

Obviously you take care of your knives anyway. It's a good steel and I think will be fine for what you want.
 
the only drawback with the gayle bradley is that it looks too good to beat on. me my beater is a old buck 110 havent been able to kill it in 40 years its not perfect, a bit of lock play blade has been sharpened 100s of times, but she still works and it only takes a few passes on the stones to get her as sharp as needed for work. it also has a handle that you can push apon all day long.i like a pocket knife that rides slim in the pocket as much as anyone and its been sometime sense i have used a knife for hours on end so i can get away with a slimer grip but for real work i want something more hand filling. just my 2 cents
 
Well staining is very subjective as it heavily depends on where you live.
Living in a tropical country will make you reevaluate you steel choices.
 
Can you use a fixed blade? This is exactly what several Mora and Hultafors models were designed for. They're industrial tools made to be abused then thrown away. Though that's not what we do in the US:) In particular, the Hultafors GK blade is 1/8" thick, 3.5" long SK5 steel (as best I can tell anyway). It's hardened on the higher end (Rc 60 IIRC) and is tough as nails. I did some research and found a place in England which sold me 10 for $10 each shipped. It was literally made for what you're doing, plus any prying and chiseling you wish to do. There are SS options as well. Just a suggestion, as it might work for you.
 
Lionsteels are good hard use folders, those made for it anyway. They make the DPx HEST line of which I have a few. One of them is Sleipner. It's great stuff. I think it's a little harder than a lot of my steels too, It might come in around 60-61. Haven't had a problem with it and edge retention has been great. I'd rate it at least a click above D-2 in that category. Never experienced any chipping in hard outdoor use, even at extremely low temps. Rumor is it's a bit subject to staining but I look at that like the rumor that D-2 rusts so easily.

Obviously you take care of your knives anyway. It's a good steel and I think will be fine for what you want.

I like Sleipner as a super-D2 but it is prone to staining in humid climates even with care. I'm close to the Pacifc Ocean and the SR-2 was exposed to humidity, water, sweat and dust.

What actually happened is that the blade is now stained as in patination. The black spots are the tiny old pits and the discolorations are the stains/patinations. The pits are only on one side (lock side) and from lower front to tip. The stains will not go away with Flitz.

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3rd for Gayle Bradley. Best hard use folder in existence imo. Definitely the best I've ever used at least...by far
 
I like Sleipner. Easy to sharpen and holds an edge like D2 but tougher. As RamZar said though, this tool steel is definitely not stainless. I used my Hi Jinx to cut through some lasagna and finished with an apple I "sliced" up. I rinsed the blade about 5 minutes after using it and it already started to develop a slight patina. I debated forcing a patina but decided to simply keep this steel away from anything acidic. I just love the finish on this blade too much to mess with it.

I'm not sure how much a patina would protect Sleipner from rusting but I'm sure it would help to a certain degree.
 
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