Little rust spots on my blades

Mississippi Rifleman

Mississippi Rifleman

Joined
Oct 10, 1999
Messages
309
I know, I know, don't say it. What is the best way to get rid of them? They are very small. Like the head of a pin or smaller.

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Ben Lee
AOL IM: MSURifleman
 
Hey Ben!
You can try 000 fine steel wool, or you can go to Wal-Mart and pick up some 2000 grit finishing sandpaper in the Automotive section.
Rub with the grain of the steel and it will zip the rust right off without leaving a mark.


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I cut it, and I cut it, and it's STILL too short!


 
Hopefully that will work. The problem is that your blade sounds like stainless, and stainless rusts by corroding into tiny pits, in which a galvanic cell (temporarily) exists. This means that the rust on stainless will penetrate deeper more quickly than the common and familiar red rust blanket on mild steel, which is largely a surface phenomenon.

If it sands off, fine; if you just get smaller pits after considerable sanding, you may as well stop, cleanse and dry the blade, then apply a rust protective. The pits will remind you to keep applying the protective.
smile.gif


I know that this is the pits (groan), but it is stainLESS, not stainPROOF. Or you could stop goofing around and go to Talonite (r).

Walt
 
I feel sandpapers, and steel wools should be a last resort. They're going to scuff up the blade and make it look awful.

Try removing them by chemical means. Try using a mild polish like Brasso, or Novus. It has worked for me without leaving any marks or scars on the blade.

Flitz will work too but it is a bit more abrasive. It will give the blade a real nice sheen but may scrub off stamped logos.

Other mild solutions are household calcium/lime/rust removers. Available at hardware stores.

If it is medium rust, try diluting some automobile rust remover and rubbing it gently with a soft cloth. Careful, since this stuff is corrosive so it can stain your blade if you use it full strength.

Heavy rust: get the sandpaper, and steel wool out!

 
You can also try a rust eraser. It looks like a pencil eraser but has an abrasive embeded within. I have used it and it works well on carbon steel.

The part number is UC-135A Sharpmaster Multi Purpose Erasers, available from United Cutlery.

 
Actually, I took a little rust off of some 440-C blades with a pencil eraser. I forgot who suggested doing that, but I tip my hat to him/her. Worked perfectly.

Howie
 
He has pits the size of the HEAD of a pin. This, if a correct description, is NOT going to go away with any polish. There is certainly no harm in trying, but if it is pitted, the Flitz, etc. is NOT going to work.

IS the blade indeed stainless??

Walt
 
The suggestion of the ink eraser is a good one. I prefer Nevr-Dull or some other mild polishing agent before I resort to steel wool. When I had tiny scratches in the clear face plate on my motorcycle helmet, I used tooth paste and a soft, wet rag.--OKG
 
Neverdull is the best hands down.

and it is non-toxic. so damn easy

If that doesn't work get a buffing wheel adn some compound. you can mirror polish your own blades.
 
This is a sore spot with me.
I have KNCA knives that go back to 1980. They're all under glass and they all have stainless blades. I opened the cases a few days ago, and there it was. Small pits, "fish eye", other little flaws. I was mad, mad at myself for not taking them out once in a while and rubbing the blades with a "Tuf-Cloth". I'm still trying to decide which is the best way to proceed. Suggestions would be welcomed.

Will
 
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