Loaded Stones?

Joined
Jun 13, 2007
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Hey guys, I've got a Lansky sharpening system with the standard stones red, blue and green.

After much(!) work I have managed to get a 17° edge on either side of my Spyderco native (s30v). I should point out that most of this was done with a bench diamond hone.

My problem is (and I'm sure it's been addressed, but I can't find an answer) that the Lansky stones are either worn smooth (if that's possible?) or they are really loaded up.

I've tried cleaning them with oil, hot water and finally hot water and soap. Nothing seems to help, and with the "coarse" stone I'm getting a polished edge. I've even tried sanding the stones with coarse paper, but that achieved nothing at all.

Are my stones toast?

Thanks
 
This sounds all too familiar to me. ;)

I had exactly the same issue trying to re-bevel a ZT-0350 in S30V. Managed to dish out two of my standard Lansky hones (I think they're aluminum oxide/corundum), without making much progress at all on the blade's edge. I did have a medium diamond supplementary hone, and finished most of the work with it.

I've always thought the standard hones in Lansky's kits had an issue with loading up and/or glazing over. The effect seems more profound on the coarser hones, for some reason; performance really dropped off quick.

I now rely on a Lansky diamond kit, and have 'retired' the other one (it was the 'Deluxe' 5-stone kit, with Lansky's standard hones). I do still use the Fine/UF ceramics from that kit, which are great finishing hones.

You could get working again with just one coarse/XC diamond hone to supplement your standard kit. The standard hones seem to work well enough in the finishing stages, AFTER using the diamond for the heavy grinding. :)


David
 
I have the same problem with my Lansky 5 stone system. The stones load up, and will not come clean. The coarse one cuts a little, the others do little. I've been overall unimpressed with the Lansky, and have gone back to practicing at sharpening by hand. I don't really like having to depend a "system". Ya never get better at hand sharpening if ya don't practice.
JT
 
This sounds all too familiar to me. ;)

I had exactly the same issue trying to re-bevel a ZT-0350 in S30V. Managed to dish out two of my standard Lansky hones (I think they're aluminum oxide/corundum), without making much progress at all on the blade's edge. I did have a medium diamond supplementary hone, and finished most of the work with it.

I've always thought the standard hones in Lansky's kits had an issue with loading up and/or glazing over. The effect seems more profound on the coarser hones, for some reason; performance really dropped off quick.

I now rely on a Lansky diamond kit, and have 'retired' the other one (it was the 'Deluxe' 5-stone kit, with Lansky's standard hones). I do still use the Fine/UF ceramics from that kit, which are great finishing hones.

You could get working again with just one coarse/XC diamond hone to supplement your standard kit. The standard hones seem to work well enough in the finishing stages, AFTER using the diamond for the heavy grinding. :)


David

Same here, and I did exactly that. I broke my clamp after having dropped it. So i bought a new one along with an extra coarse diamond for re grinding, and the fine diamond for sharpening. I have a 1000 grit diamond card I use for touching up as well. I find myself not using the other stones from my 5 stone kit. I just stick with the diamond now even for soft steels. Its just so much quicker with better results.
 
Argh... the thing is is that I'm right in the middle of this job.

I kid you not, when I look at the edge after using the coarse stone I can literally see a perfect mirrored finish. Stupid.

Glazed, that's exactly the right term. They have a shiny spot in the middle that cannot be broken. I tried using the edge of the coarse stone on the flat of the medium grit stone and it did nothing but damage the coarse stone.

Well I've had this kit for many years... I guess it's time for an EPA. :(
 
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