Lock Stabilizer

gmarthur

gmarthur

Joined
Mar 5, 2007
Messages
638
I tried searching but it would just not work so sorry if this has been brought up.

Anyways on to my question. I'm going to be picking up a frame lock and noticed the stabilizer button on the Strider's and ZT 300's. I can see how this would help prevent over travel of the lockbar and was wondering if there was any news of an updated Sebbie that would be using this or something similar. I've read where the clip helps in this regard but I'd think the Hinderer setup would be much more effective.

Appreciate any info or thoughts on this.
 
Lock stabilizers are only needed on lesser knives. If the blade tang-to-lockbar angle is correct you should never need a lock stabilizer.
 
Well, here are a couple of pictures of locks on my Sebenza and a "lesser knife". :-)

knivessebenzasmflocks00yo7.jpg


knivessebenzasmflocks00lg0.jpg


knivessebenzasmflocks01iv4.jpg

Hosted by ImageShack

The lock bar on my Large Classic Sebenza seems to take a little more effort to move to the side. Also, the movement seems to firm up alot when pushed a little more than needed.

Rich
 
My guess is that it probably it's most useful attribute is a great marketing feature. I think lock stabilizers are a good idea, but, for 99% of use I don't think they needed. How many sebs have been damaged by over travel?
 
Rich357 said:
Well, here are a couple of pictures of locks on my Sebenza and a "lesser knife". :-)

knivessebenzasmflocks00yo7.jpg


knivessebenzasmflocks00lg0.jpg


knivessebenzasmflocks01iv4.jpg

Hosted by ImageShack

The lock bar on my Large Classic Sebenza seems to take a little more effort to move to the side. Also, the movement seems to firm up alot when pushed a little more than needed.

Rich
Click to expand...

Lesser knife, Still laughing my face off. A custom MS Damascus; man that is my holy grail!
 
If you have ever handled and used a sebenza, you would know that there's not a need for a stabilizer.

Brett

gmarthur said:
I tried searching but it would just not work so sorry if this has been brought up.

Anyways on to my question. I'm going to be picking up a frame lock and noticed the stabilizer button on the Strider's and ZT 300's. I can see how this would help prevent over travel of the lockbar and was wondering if there was any news of an updated Sebbie that would be using this or something similar. I've read where the clip helps in this regard but I'd think the Hinderer setup would be much more effective.

Appreciate any info or thoughts on this.
Click to expand...
 
The strider may not be a lesser knife, but look at the relief cut? It's DEEP and makes the framelock more easily moved. Check out STR's post in relation to this issue. The Sebbie has some of the shallowest relief cuts and that's why it's so stable.

IMHO

Brett
 
bdws1975 said:
The strider may not be a lesser knife, but look at the relief cut? It's DEEP and makes the framelock more easily moved. Check out STR's post in relation to this issue. The Sebbie has some of the shallowest relief cuts and that's why it's so stable.

IMHO

Brett
Click to expand...

That is precisely what I noticed. What good is a thicker frame, if the relief cut is so deep? And I'll concur that the Seb has no need for such a contrivance.
 
Thanks for everyone's thoughts. I knew there had to be a reason the seb didn't use such a system. I was not aware of the difference in the relief cutouts. No one here has a problem with over travel - I guess that says enough about the need for the stabilizer.

Thanks again,
Greg
 
Attention to detail doesn't necessarily equate to effective design. More parts do not necessarily add up to a better whole.

As much as I'd like to, I've never handled one of Hinderer's knives, and I've always been a little curious about that stabilizer. Like the Striders, the XM-18 has a very deep spring relief. There's also a good deal of stress concentration there - particularly on the Strider. Look at how the Reeve design handles that problem. :)

Anyway... been carrying Reeves for a good many years now. I only own three of them (one of each size) but all three lock up perfectly. That's three for three on the first try.

The Reeve designs rely heavily on very tight fit and finish, particularly at the lock and pivot. For what they are and what they cost, they are fantastically well-executed knives. Really great products. They don't need any more parts, because the parts that are there fit together very, very well. That's not something you get from looking at a picture, but you come to understand it after living with the knife for a while.

The only problem I've ever had with my Sebenzas and Umfaan is that they function so well, I'm afraid to buy other folders. Knowing that it's possible to produce a framelock that works this well, it just simply is not acceptable to me to have *any* blade play or lock hesitation of any sort. Period.
 
On SMF's the Ti scale cutout is ~1mm thick but at it's narrowest its 18mm wide. If it were much thicker the lock would be very stiff to unlock.
 
With the sebenzas, it seems like it can bend over a period of two parts, making less tension at each particular spot. Especially since the relief cuts are curved like that, the tension gets spread out within each cut. That is a great design.
 
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