Lock Types - Pros & Cons

G

Glenn056

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Nov 26, 2015
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Hey everyone! Lets start another technical-ish thread, this time on lock types. Now now, yes for extremely heavy duty stuff, one ought to leave that to the fixed blades (not that some folders couldn't handle it 😉), but lets just talk about our experiences with the respective lock types.

Here's my personal experiences and opinions:

Framelock:
Not the strongest out there, titanium or not, but a well done one is more than strong enough for normal use. Slipping is a probability if sufficient force is applied on the spine or if one chops on stuff (😱) due to shock. Twisting cuts on tougher material MIGHT also cause the hand to accidentally pull the lock bar off to disengage it. Although it has a wider surface of tang engagement than usual linerlocks, as they say, "it is only as strong as it's weakest point", which is the lockbar cutout, and in destruction tests it is usually where bending and deformation happens. Although some people say that the hand grip increases the strength of it and prevents it from slipping, I've seen some tests where the lockbar would just easily push the hands away and slip so....
Even though it isn't the strongest nor the most "user friendly" out there, I can't help to like it for some reason. There's something cool about Ti framelocks that i can't explain.

Triad Lock:
Toughest lock out there, possibility nearing the strength of a fixed blade, at least as much as a folder could be, solid as a frickin rock, 0% chance of slipping.
However, people new to it maybe have a hard time warming up to it due to a stronger back spring as compared to normal backlocks which they use their thumb tip to disengage rather than the thumb joint and thus might be painful. Personally i feel it is decently easy to open and close one handed without issues (not the safest I'll admit but once used to it its alright). The king in terms of strength.

Linerlock:
Technically similar to a framelock although might be thinner. However i think that a well done liner lock as perform just as good as well done framelock (cutouts of a framelock usually is around the same thickness as a linerlock or even thinner at times😮). Functions the same as a framelock and is strong enough for usual cutting tasks.
However, linerlocks from different manufacturers have vastly differing strength. Some are really well done (CRKT Drifter for eg) or some are really weak (Buck Vantage for eg)

Axislock:
A very strong lock aswell, second to the triad lock. Very smooth and one of the best for ease of use. However might develop play over time and doesn't really feel very solid for some reason (just my personal opinion)

Ramsafe lock:
Invented by Andrew Demko for the CS Pocket Bushman, it is also very strong and i doubt it could slip. However it is very stiff and usually have to use 2 hands to operate. Ive used it for throwing amd battoning just for testing purposes and no play was developed.

Ringlock:
Also present in another Cold Steel product ,the Kudu, and i have tried destruction test on it (again just for testing it's limits) and found it to be surprisingly strong. It held up no problem to throwing and battoning, and I did spine whacks on it for probably dozens of times as hard as i could before it slipped, but was still functional afterwards. However I've never experienced tradional ringlock Okapi knives so wouldn't be able to comment on them.

So yeah those are most experiences/thoughts on some locks ive had. I haven't have any experiences with others like the SLS, Bolt lock, compression, Ball bearing etc but would love to hear your opinions or regarding those I've mentioned. Feel free to share your thoughts!
(And no, no slip joints please!😁)


Sent from the BatComputer
 
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Not that I like one and dislike the other, I feel framelock has less chance to slip than linerlock because of the hand pressure on the lockside scale. Damn are we beating the spince whacking dead horse again?
 
What no compression lock mention?
Another strong lock, easier to use one handed than a triad lock. Only downside is it gets placed right where the web of your hand is which can be a bit of a pain for some users.


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I don't spine-whack or stuff like that so axis lock, liner lock, or button lock (William Henry) are fine for my uses.

I have owned framelocks but my hand can press the lock bar in, and I don't care for the concept of a presentation side and lock side: I prefer both sides to look the same.

So I'm weird, shoot me.
 
T.K.C. said:
Personally, I WILL take a frame lock over everything else.
Click to expand...

Agreed.

More than strong enough do the simple job of keeping a knife open in case you make a mistake.

Simplicity. That's what I like, when done right (see CRK) it's just a simple way to lock, and especially unlock a knife with one hand.

It doesn't add more parts to a knife, again, see "simplicity"
 
I would contend that the Axis lock, when done right, wears in with time and is one of the more play-resistant locks. I say when done right, since I've owned a few Axis models that did it wrong - funky geometries amidst the interfaces, though these have been few and far between. Sometimes also, the larger the Axis folder, the thicker the blade and liners, etc., seems like the more play becomes prevalent.

Grips, for instance. You don't hear a lot about them developing play over years of use. Just my .02. I just really have a lot of confidence in this lock based on use since its inception in '99 with BM.

Prof.
 
Id argue a balisong lock is stronger than a triad lock (if the bali is properly built)

It is also the simplest to make, there are no springs required. That's one of the reasons the Filipinos adopted it so quickly from the Spaniards. It is also a very old design dating back to the early 1700s I believe. Its just a time proven tool IMO.
 
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I have been rethinking locks lately. I have come to really appreciate the mid-back back-lock.

I thought I didn't like back locks because they aren't fast to use and some, as you said (CS) take extra force to operate. I thought I really like the compression lock the best but have come to realize there is that cutout in the wrong place for me and the trivial but slightly annoying "slap/pinch" that I get while using it.

As far as a Triad being foolproof they are strong and durable but consider that dirt, gravel, lint etc can still foul it . . .

After I got my first Endura 4 recently . . . I was looking at it like "hell . . . another freakin back lock" but the knife is so great and the grip near the blade pivot is so clean without divots and metal flaps and asymmetrical surfaces that cause the handle to teeter in use during fine cutting . . .

mid back locks may be my favorite; then maybe the FRAME lock. Liner locks being serviceable and decent to use when done well but a drag when they fail to unlock or have play when they break in/wear out some times all in the same six months.

The Axis is pretty darned good for erogos in use one handed operation is sketchy dependent on handle size and particular construction details of the handle (full back spacer verses minimal standoff spacers). The bulkier the better. Two handed operation I think they are my favorite for ease of use and fun/cool factor.

I am learning to release a mid-back back-lock and drop the blade down with a bit of wrist movement (if it is needed at all) and that is worth having so that I can have the handle shape best for me which is long, narrow vertically and fatish cross wise. Think Cold Steel Ti Lite (just for shape) rather than Spyderco K2 . . . as I said I really like the Endura handle . . . could be even fatter cross wise; more like the CS Ti Lite.

These days I look at handle shape first and lock secondarily.

The CS back locks defy the blade drop when using one handed; I have to press the back of the blade against my leg or something for consistent results closing them on some even after modding the lock. I put up with the Triad Locks because some of their knife designs I like very much.
For my use, pretty tame work and cooking/utility use, I would still buy them even if they were slip joints including the big Hold Out. The hold out shape contradicts my handle preference but there it is. I like a little contrast too.

The Ti Lock of Grant and Gavin Hawk I give high marks for Steam Punk coolness but for me personally I probably won't go there because of food and gunk getting grabbed by the lock bar/spring.

Finally the simplest and most secure lock of all . . . and I speak of the Opinel in general and NOT the twist lock in particular . . . well the wood to steel pivot anyway . . . want a folder to possess the strength of a fixed blade ? Just open your Opinel and add water. A drop or two of water is all it takes and that sucker will swell up SOLID.

Of course there is what to do with it once you are finished . . .
that's a problem
Kind of a folding knife on Viagra if you ask me.
 
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I prefer a Tri-ad or Axis. Just sick of dealing with lock rock, lock slip, tang and lock geometry being hit and miss, steel insert this or that titanium wearing down, lock travel. I'm done with it, give me a Tri-ad lock any day of the week and i can forget about any issues ever.
 
I trust the Triad the most, but now almost exclusively carry a compression lock folder, whether the Yo2, PM2, or other. It is simpe, strong, easy to use, FUN to use, easy to clean, reliable, and the most natural lock for me at least. My collection has slowly dwindled to mostly comp lock folder, with quite a few Triads that don't get carried. I also really like Demko's new scorpion lock, and it has been getting some carry time as of late.
 
EricV said:
What no compression lock mention?
Another strong lock, easier to use one handed than a triad lock. Only downside is it gets placed right where the web of your hand is which can be a bit of a pain for some users.


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Click to expand...

Probably because most of Glenn's knives and Kool-Aid are supplied by Cold Steel.

Not that there's a problem with that. Just a matter of taste.
 
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