Lock up decrease..

Joined
May 16, 2006
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My small sebbie with a damascus blade has a lockup of about 75 %. I would like to have it at 25%. I tried other methods and the best I think is to increase the diameter if the blade stop very slightly. I know as I built it up a bit with JB weld and it works. It is temporary and want to know if anybody else tried it using a slightly larger diameter blade stop. I prefer to do this myself and not send to CRK. Any suggestions??
 
If its at 75% you still have a good bit to go in that blade, I wouldnt start tweeking it just yet.
A fatter stop pin will do the trick though, there is one or two other options but a bigger stop pin is probably the safest one.

I persoanly like my lock to sit at about 50-75%, but were all different :):thumbup:
 
I believe a bigger stop pin will increase the angle between the two surfaces. In other words it would decrease the amount of contact area.
 
My suggestion is leave it alone because 25% lockup is not any kind of advantage. Nor is %75 bad.

Have you disassembled and cleaned it? That usually resets the lockup at least some.
 
I'll second the ' disassemble/reassemble ' thing. I've found that I'll get anywhere between 25 and 75% lock-up upon reassembly. If I don't like what I get I try again.
 
I would leave it alone. There is nothing wrong with your knife and 75% is within CRK specifications.
 
I'll second the ' disassemble/reassemble ' thing. I've found that I'll get anywhere between 25 and 75% lock-up upon reassembly. If I don't like what I get I try again.

Thanks, I did try that and it is still the same. It is just me, but I prefer no more than 50% lockup.
 
Bend it out a little by hand, if you must. Be gentle.

JB weld on the stop pin of a Seb would be like... blasphemy!
 
Bending the lockbar out in order to decrease the lock up engagement point would be the last thing you would want to do. Not only would this introduce play into the lock, but it would also compromise the lock up and make the knife very unsafe.
 
Your 75% lock engagement is normal. Mine's locked up at 60-75% (resets at 60% after cleaning) for the past 5 years.

Bending the lockbar, increasing the stop pin, or otherwise altering the stop pin are going to compromise lockup in some way, shape, or form as mentioned above, and that came straight from Chris himself on the phone with me years ago. I trusted him, and after six years+ of edc, my small Seb still locks up in the same place, and solidly as ever. As Chris explained to me back then, "lock bar wear" as we knife geeks theorize, is not as big a problem as we think.

Just my .02.

Professor.
 
JB weld, bend it out, you are joking, right? You do know that the round spacer is really elliptical and can be rotated to change the lock-up engagement.
wilson
 
Personally I like mine at 75% and typically they stay there a very long time.
Sleeving the exisiting stop may be possible but you'd have to contact knife kits (Daryl) and ask him to make one to fit it exactly for you and he'd have to know the size hole to put in it so it slid right over your existing pin.

He could do this out of stainless. Then once you get it you'd have to adjust it to the right thickness so its going to fit without keeping the blade pivot from proper tension. After this the blade itself would need a slight adjustment to keep it from losing the detent action or having the point stick up when closed or you may even have to trim off some of the blade so it doesn't bump the new stop diameter in rotation. Its a lot of touchy work. It can be done but its always tricky.

STR
 
Think about it though... Even though the stop sleeve could be increased in diameter to essentially make the blade tang ramp more prominent, it would be a fine, fine adjustment. Think of the blade tang ramp where it meets the lockbar face as a perfect line. The slightest bit of interruption one way or the other is going to compromise that perfect line.

You really cannot compensate effectively for worn-out titanium, but again, it rarely happens. I think I may have only once if at all heard of anyone's Sebenza's lockbar that ended up smacking the opposite side due to long-term wear and the blade's lockup being compromised as a result.

Honestly, I think the thing to do is for someone (knifemakers, here's a hint) to fuse either more ti to ti, if possible, or affix steel to ti (preferably without screws) to "reset" the lockbar face, as it were. You could revive any framelock if that were possible.

:)

Professor.
 
Thank you, all ! Thanks, STR ! Yes I feel there is a lot to do and I think I will just use it as it is. If you think 75% is fine, 75% it is. Yes, I do know that CRK thinks 75% is normal.
 
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