lockbar questions

[Dr sharp]

I was wondering if the tang on the blade where the lockbar hits ever wears out? Also is the tang supposed to be lubed? It just seems like that tang sees alot of load, with the lockbar riding across it, but people say the lock lasts forever.

 

[trane fan]

I've never heard of the tang wearing out and I know of no reason to lube it.

 

[Geode]

I definitely wouldn't lube the tang because the friction between the lockbar and the tang are an important part of the lock-up. The only thing I might consider a *small* amount of grease on is the detente.

IIRC, it would be the end of the Titanium lockbar that would wear before the blade tang. I believe CRK actually tempers or heat treats the end of the lockbar for increased wear resistance. In any event, if the lock-up becomes compromised through normal usage, this seems like a covered warranty item.

 

[DJ _Wolf]

Leave that, and start oiling the blade. Put oil on the areas where the washers go, and inside the pivot area. Also put some oil on the tang where the lock bar normally engages.

From the Chris Reeve website.

http://www.chrisreeve.com/sebenzaclean.htm

 

[JoHnYKwSt]

Dr Sharp,

I wouldnt worry about it wearing out in the manner that the bar moves over and hits the opposite scale and causing vertical blade play. But I might worry about the lock becoming very sticky, due to the hardened lock face wearing--the the hardened area is very thin. This being said, I have opened and closed my sebenza more times in the past 5 years than any normal human being should over the course of their lifetime. I open and close it religiously. My lockbar has moved *VERY* little, if any and I doubt it will be moving anymore. The lock sometimes sticks a little but usually the stickiness is almost nonexistant. In my opinion, the first thing that would probably wear out is the ceramic ball bearing. Maybe mine will wear out in another 5 years...

 

[FK]

I do use a small amount of CRK grease on the face of the lockbar and the mating area on the blade. It makes a new Sebenza smoother to unlock and does not have any effect the lock-up slipping. The new knives are somewhat sticky and need a little help breaking in.

After a few weeks of open/close cycles, I will dissasemble and clean the bronze washers and all moving pivot parts,,,, apply a light coating of CRK grease,,,,,the Sebenza will now be very smooth and stay that way unless gunked up with whatever.

CRK does heat treat the very end on the titanium locking bar for wear resistance,,,,,I also have one small Sebenza that has been cycled many thousands of times with no movement on the locking bar engagement. I do not "flick" my knives and cannot coment on the wear and relative movement resulting.

Regards,
FK

 

[TedV]

DJ_Wolf is right. That's the same text as in my initial thread.

This was part of Anne Reeve 's comment on my initial thread about dis-assembly.

Concerning lubricants – we absolutely recommend our Fluorinated Grease. This is not because we want to sell more of it but because it fits best with our tolerances. Other types are either to thin and they dissipate too readily or they are too thick and offer too much resistance.

When lubricating the blade, in addition to both sides of the surface of the blade around the pivot hole, also sparingly put lube inside the hole and on the flat of the blade against which the locking bar seats when the knife is open.

There is no need to put lube between the washers and the handle, nor is it necessary to do any super special polishing of the washers. Just make sure they are clean (rub them flat on a piece of paper towel to remove existing lube and any dirt that may be sticking to them) – you don’t want to get into a situation where you have altered the thickness of the washer because you are going to get problems with side play.

Ted

 

[trane fan]

Well, I stand corrected as to the question of whether or not to lube.