Lockbar Stickiness

Joined
Oct 27, 2008
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I have a couple knives that have pretty sticky framelocks, and honestly this is a pretty big pet peeve of mine.

I know it doesn't affect the function of the knife, but I've always loved my knives really smooth in actuation and closing, that's just my opinion.

The only two remedies I've seen mentioned are a. graphite (pencil on the blade tang/lockbar) and b. breaking it in. What if the problem persists afterwards? I've heard something about titanium being more sticky towards steel than steel on steel contact, and I can probably attest to this having never had a stick stainless steel framelock or liner lock but multiple sticky framelocks.

Any suggestions?

Thanks for the help.
 
You're on the right track. Pencil the tang, break it in, and I've heard Sharpie on the tang works too. Look on the bright side; your lock isn't likely to fail on you! I've got a Mini Cyclone Ti/ZDP in my pocket now. It's pretty much been there since April 2007. It took about 6 months to break in properly, and the lock travel today is still the same as it was in 2008.
 
Sharpie on the tang has worked the best for me in the past.

Another remedy would be purchasing a Sebenza!
 
I'm a Sharpie man myself. Just let it dry before you start opening and closing.
 
I have a pair of sebenzas and they're great, but my SNG, Bradley Alias II and Spyderco Leafstorm are being difficult lol
 
How sticky is it? A little bit of stickiness is actually preferable for me. If its really sticky try breaking it down and putting it back together and use a pencil or sharpie on the lockbar.
 
You're on the right track. Pencil the tang, break it in, and I've heard Sharpie on the tang works too. Look on the bright side; your lock isn't likely to fail on you! I've got a Mini Cyclone Ti/ZDP in my pocket now. It's pretty much been there since April 2007. It took about 6 months to break in properly, and the lock travel today is still the same as it was in 2008.

I have a couple of framelocks and a couple of linerlocks that suffered from the same problem. They finally found their happy place after about a year of using them, and they work smoothly and properly now. And like SPXT said, once they found their sweet spot, they stayed there, and they lock up nicely.

A little pencil dust and some good use ought to do the trick.

Robert
 
I have a pair of sebenzas and they're great, but my SNG, Bradley Alias II and Spyderco Leafstorm are being difficult lol

The Alias I I got also had a really sticky lockbar. I mean it was like wedged in there and there was nothing I could do to smooth it out. If it really bothers you send it back because breaking it in isnt really an option for me. Why cause premature wear just to break it in?
 
The Sharpie trick worked for me too. There is a little breaking in period for new knives. Also, if there is oil on the tang the lock will tend to stick. I learned it the hard way and once greased a brand new knife of mine.
 
I've tried both the pencil & sharpie trick & have to admit, I think the sharpie method is the best. It seems to last longer than pencil lead. You do have to let it dry 1st, but that's not really an issue as it doesn't take long for it to dry.
 
Stickness is a BIG gripe of mine also on Ti knives.
Some I have were stickey and some were smooth from the box.
1. On Striders(the worst)I take them apart and buff the contact surfaces with a scotchbrite wheel. Led, Sharpie does no good!
2. Sebenzas are pretty easy. led pencil works with some "break in" time.
3. Kershaw, Spyderco, Buck are snooth from the box.
 
Excess clearance between pivot dia. and hole in blade and shallow (large) radius on blade tang contribute to lock bar getting wedged in. Now it's sticky.
 
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