Lockbar to far over fix

colubrid

colubrid

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
5,125
I have a Large regular Sebenza where the lockbar is 98% over and has lockstick. Any tricks besides the shifting of the grip slabs in opposite positions to move the lockbar to an earlier position besides this grip-slab-shuffle-trick (which does not work after a few openings and closings anyway)?

The lockstick is what is really bothering me because it means the carborization of the lockbar has worn off.

Is there a way that CRK can make a lockbar move back further to a normal lockup by replacing the stop pin to a larger size?

I was told by Anne Reeves that if the lockbar moves all the way over and touches the grip of the handle it will not move as it has no place to go. BUt I have a good sense that the blade will start to have back and forth lockrock when it gets to that point because it cannot move any further over. Which should not be too much longer due to the fact the lockstick is wearing away at the metal quick in the last 3 weeks.

So:
#1 can I send it in for cerborization

#2 Has anyone had CRK fix late lockup and how do they do this? Replace the stop pin with a larger one? Or some other method?
 
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You can try to rotate the stop pin a little. Maybe in has worn from opening? My stop pin shows a little wear on the finish but i don't know it it really has a mechanical impact.
 
try rotating the stop pin. If it bas developed a flat spot, that could be a problem
 
Why would they not repair this? That does not seem reasonable.


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marcus52AR said:
It sounds like @ 98 percent the best thing would be to send it in. Crk will fix you up.
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marcus52AR said:
It sounds like @ 98 percent the best thing would be to send it in. Crk will fix you up.
Click to expand...

I did send it in to CRK! They told me they could not fix a blade that falls over all the way. I got it back a couple weeks ago.

After I received the knife back I asked Anne Reeves at the Blade show about receiving my Sebenza back in the mail with this answer and she said that a lockbar that is even 100% and touches the other side will not effect performance in any way. She said that the blade won't wobble or move. I told her I thought I read on Blade forums that a lockbar that is 100% (or 98%-99% in this case) is something they warranty and repair by replacing a different size stop pin and she just shook her head as if to say what I read on the internet is nonsense or not true . . SO, I am asking the question here to see and find out if this warranty repair has ever occurred to anyone and if indeed that CRK does not and never has repaired a lockbar that moves over a certain degree???

Also after I received the knife back from CRK my lock sticks. I don't know what they did but it did not do this before. So I thought this means the carbonization wore off when they attempted to adjust the lockbar. Which they didn't.
 
archieblue said:
Why would they not repair this? That does not seem reasonable.


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That is what I thought so I spoke to Anne at the blade show booth about it and she said a lockbar that touches will not cause the blade to wobble. Thus there is no need to fix it.

So I guess all this internet stuff is fallacy and people just assumed this about CRK Sebenzas or that a Sebenza will not have blade wobble if the lockbar moves all the way over.

So has anyone here ever sent in a Sebenza that touched the other side and had it fixed by CRK? Or is this all just internet assumption?

Personally I just hate the feeling of having to push the lockbar over that far with my thumb .
 
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Did you get Strider's fix for lock rock mixed up with CRK's? The bigger stop pin is a Strider fix for lockrock and overtravel.
 
I have never had the problem that you're describing nor have I ever had a CRK that was even close to it. Conceptually however , I agree with you that blade wobble is potentially in your future. Did Anne Reeve say that they would fix it if your knife did develop blade wobble in the future?
 
OilMan said:
Did you get Strider's fix for lock rock mixed up with CRK's? The bigger stop pin is a Strider fix for lockrock and overtravel.
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Maybe I did get that idea from Strider.

In any case, CRK does not fix or warranty a lockbar from moving over. Something I think we all "assumed". ANother thing I think we all assumed is that a lockbar moved until it touches effects lockrock. So I guess it is not an issue with Sebenzas.

I recall seeing a for sale ad a few years ago from Lisatanica where she was selling a H Sebenza and the lockbar was already almost all the way over. Maybe the original design was meant to be like this and later they made the lockbars not so far over as the standard 80%.


I found the video. Look at the 5 minute mark:

[video=youtube;GJTq7IjSUQE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJTq7IjSUQE[/video]
 
on_the_edge said:
I have never had the problem that you're describing nor have I ever had a CRK that was even close to it. Conceptually however , I agree with you that blade wobble is potentially in your future. Did Anne Reeves say that they would fix it if your knife did develop blade wobble in the future?
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She said it would not. She asked me how this can happen? I said I don't know. So I guess they don't.

So I guess that a lockbar on a ebenza that is moved all the way over just does a proper job it was designed for and stays that way.

They know more about their design than anyone. It just bothers me personally because the lockbar has to be pushed over with the thumb.. and for peace of mind.
 
This may be a case where to fix it they would need to replace your lockside. Since they don't make the parts for the Regular anymore, there is a problem in doing that. Overall I don't think they like to repair late lockups, just because someone likes an earlier lockup, with no actual problem to the knife(such as blade play).
I have had a knife in with them before, that needed the lockbar re-heat treated. If I didn't get it the lockbar would wear out.
Just some thoughts.
 
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This is what was in the FAQ's(un-official)
I was wondering if any Sebenzas have been returned for blade play due to wear
between the area of the blade tang and the surface of the liner that makes contact
with the blade? If so, would it be possible to purchase a lock side scale from you?

This is not something we have experienced because of "wear" - it can happen for some other reasons - after market modifications or screws not being tight or dirt in the lock or similar things.
We would not send out a lock side scale (or blade or other knife parts!) - we would ask that the knife be returned to us so that we can put right whatever it is that is not correct.(There may well be a charge for the repair, however and we would be in touch with the customer about it.) Part of what you get when you buy a Chris Reeve Knife is "service". It is important to us that the knives work the way they were intended and we will gladly work on any knife that needs it.

- Anne Reeve, 10/09/98

Just to clarify a point here, the pivot pin on the Sebenza is not asymetrical and is also not the part that you are thinking of in terms of rotation! The stop sleeve, against which the blade rests when the knife is open, can be rotated it necessary to get just a tiny bit of take-up.
If you go to our website at www.chrisreeve.com you will see detailed diagrams showing the relationship between the blade and pivot, the stop sleeve and the lock.

Lateral movement in the blade is not acceptable in a Sebenza. If there is play, there is something wrong and the best thing to do would be to send it to us so we can put it right.

- Chris and Anne Reeve, 10/09/98


•My problem is that the lock travels and hits the opposing liner when a firm grip is applied. I disassembled it and cleaned it thoroughly but the problem persists.

There is nothing to fix!! The lock will move over toward the back of the front handle slab if you press hard on it. After all, it is a spring that has a natural position and can move further if pushed. The spec position for the lock is to cover 75% of the blade. If it falls naturally further than that, we will adjust it.
A difference between the Sebenza and other liner locks is that you can get in behind the lock of a Sebenza and push it over. With the others, you can only push from the top of the liner which is a less effective movement.

We know that a lot of owners of Sebenzas like to adjust the lock and the pivot etc. but we DO discourage this. When we ship the knives, they work the way they are intended and modifications usually end up with something not working right!
 
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Personally your looking for a fix to a problem that hasn't happened yet , if the lock develops play I'm confident they will fix it .

Until then use it . If the lock is sticking try a little sharpie or pencil on it .

You could send it to a 3rd part to get re carbidized but you'd probably lose your warranty .CRK claims their locks don't wear , I don't know how I feel about that statement but I'm confident if your knife ever fid develop play it would be fixed .
 
I have a 1996 user small Regular that did go all the way over and then developed slight lock-rock. CRK replaced the stop pin, which solved the problem. I recall reading posts here some years back about knives that had the lock-side scale replaced - that's sort of hard to imagine needing to happen but apparently it has. I don't know what to tell you about your conversation with Ms. Reeve.
 
It's only a cosmetic problem unless it causes up and down blade play, which they will repair

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Bob45 said:
It's only a cosmetic problem unless it causes up and down blade play, which they will repair

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Exactly. And there is no up and down play.

Also, I thought they just replace the stop pin to a larger size once the lockbar travels over a certain degree... At least that is what I thought they do with a 98-99% lockup fix. Like many ohers I was wrong and ill informed. I assumed that and I think a lot of others here have as well. So I am glad I shared this and got it all cleared up.

In other words, there is no problem unless there is up and down play.
 
Just watched that video.....

I had to think about my response, but I don't think that would bother me at all as long as there was no compromise to safety, and there was no up/down play.

I expect every Ti frame lock to wear, and if used enough, for long enough, to continue to get closer to 100%
I am not sure all knives will make it all the way across, but I imagine many eventually will.
I mean, it might take some knives 100K openings, but I imagine they will all get there....
 
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