Lockup question

Joined
Aug 6, 2014
Messages
49
Hey guys i have a question about lockup on liner locks and frame locks. I am wondering where it is most preferred. Early, halfway, or late? My cryo went completely to the other scale & my chill goes past halfway. Just wondering what people think is best?
 
I'm no expert but I'll accept 30-60% on a new one...and it goes from there with wear.

Ideal for new would be 40-50 probably.
 
I prefer 100% of the locking liner on the tang. If the Cryo goes all the way to the other side, something is wrong.
 
I prefer 100% of the locking liner on the tang. If the Cryo goes all the way to the other side, something is wrong.

It's actually 100% on the tang and with it touching the other scale the tang and lock are flush with one another
 
Earlier lockup on brand new knives is sometimes preferred to give you some room for the lock to wear and settle in. Earlier lockup can also translate into greater longevity for the lock, as the lock face will take on some wear during normal usage and continue to push towards the opposite scale. If the lockbar does eventually work its way to the opposite scale and continues to wear, you may develop some vertical blade play.

The lock is just there to help prevent unintentional closing of the knife. If it is serving that purpose, then it really doesn't matter (in my opinion) if it's at 25% or 100%. If it does get to the point where you start experiencing lock rock or vertical play, you can always contact KAI Warranty.
 
Neither extreme is good, obviously your Cryo if the lock is hitting the opposite side scale, that's bad. I've seen others that are so early the lock is not secure. I'd say 30-50% is ideal for a new knife.

A lot of collectors etc. seem to prefer a very early lockup, as a sign of low use/abuse. However, in decades of using liner/frame locks I've never had a quality one wear significantly over time. In other words I've never seen a new knife with say 50% lockup wear to 100%. To do so would be a sign of very poor lock fit/engagement.

It's a slippery slope, these days most designs the whole lock bar face does not contact the blade tang no matter where the lock bar is (doing so typically causes lock stick, which while super secure is a pain and unpopular). Some designs like the CRK ceramic ball lock the ball is not at the edge of the lock bar so while the lock bar might look like it's 80% the actual contact with the blade tang is more at 50%. If you look at the wear on used liner/frame locks you'll see the actual contact area of the lock bar face and the blade tang is very small, both horizontally and vertically.

Lock wear also creates a bigger concern in that these days lock bar tension tends to be very low, it makes them easier to flip. In fact most lock bars if you remove the blade are not bent enough to even contact the other side of the handle and would never go to 100% even if the blade was missing. That means if your lock bar does wear significantly over time it no longer has spring tension on it which encourages lock slip, lock rock, etc.
 
It's a slippery slope, these days most designs the whole lock bar face does not contact the blade tang no matter where the lock bar is (doing so typically causes lock stick, which while super secure is a pain and unpopular). Some designs like the CRK ceramic ball lock the ball is not at the edge of the lock bar so while the lock bar might look like it's 80% the actual contact with the blade tang is more at 50%. If you look at the wear on used liner/frame locks you'll see the actual contact area of the lock bar face and the blade tang is very small, both horizontally and vertically.

Emerson actually describes this on his site. The whole lock face is not supposed to be in contact with the tang. http://emersonknives.com/uncategorized/emerson-knife-anatomy/
 
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