Loctite Sumo Glue???

KnifeHead

KnifeHead

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 5, 2006
Messages
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I took a shot and tried this glue in a camp blade I have been working on for a while. I didn't have any epoxy or other traditional gap filling adhesive and had Loctite Sumo on hand. http://www.sumoglue.com/

It is a polyurethane glue and foams up a bit, which worked great to fill in any gaps inside the handle. I had previously soaked and clamped the leather pieces, glued them with a quality wood working glue and allowed plenty of time to dry. I now have the ruff shape of the handle and, from what I can tell, it looks like the glue worked great. It sure tightened up well and there aren't any gaps.

I'm keeping this knife and will watch how the handle holds up and will report back, good or bad.

BTW, the blade is forged from an old English file, OAL 13", plumb brown bluing on blade and mild steel fittings. Convex ground....crazy sharp wood chopper. I'll post more pics when I finish the handle.

campblade6.jpg


campblade7.jpg


campblade8.jpg
 
David Wesner said:
sweeeet ! :) Nice lookin blade :thumbup:
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Hey...thanks:) It takes me a while to get anything finished, since I do this for fun in my spare time. I pounded this one out when it was still warm outside and I am just now getting back to putting it together.

One other point about the glue though, I wouldn't rely on this for gap filling primarily. The pieces on this handle fit really tight when I assembled it. All flexibility had been worked out of the leather pieces and they are literally as hard as wood. I don't necessarily recommend using this glue, instead of epoxy for a handle like this, especially this early into it. Time will tell so it's best to go with a sure thing. So far, I'm happy with it.
 
Just a word of caution on any urethane based glue (gorilla, sumo, elmers all bond, etc) that foams from moisture. There is no structural strength of any kind in the part that foams up and it is not compressed significantly. You can pick the foam away with just your finger nail. It is not designed to be gap filling other than to a few thousands of an inch. The part that sticks insanely well is what cures as a solid. If this glues foams just a bit and is contained/compressed, it will have *some* structural strength, but again, nothing like if it was cured as 'solid' - what ever 'solid' means.
 
tmickley said:
Just a word of caution on any urethane based glue (gorilla, sumo, elmers all bond, etc) that foams from moisture. There is no structural strength of any kind in the part that foams up and it is not compressed significantly. You can pick the foam away with just your finger nail. It is not designed to be gap filling other than to a few thousands of an inch. The part that sticks insanely well is what cures as a solid. If this glues foams just a bit and is contained/compressed, it will have *some* structural strength, but again, nothing like if it was cured as 'solid' - what ever 'solid' means.
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You're right and thanks for the info. The foamy part isnt even as strong as a packing peanut, so it's gap filling qualities are useless. But, as an adhesive, sticking "insanely well" is pretty daggone sticky.:D I scrubbed my hands with cleaner till I almost bled and still couldn't get the grime/glue off. DANG sticky stuff. :grumpy:
 
This was my first attempt at leather spacer handles. Here's what I learned:

1. I like this type of handle. It takes a bit more time but the end result is good. It makes a very durable handle for this type of knife....a beater.

2. Next time, I will glue up the entire handle and bolt thru it to hold it together and pre-shape it totally before putting it on the tang. I scuffed up my plumb brown metal fittings in front and back while shaping the handle. I knew that was going to happen. Impatient :rolleyes:

3. Get the best glue for the job. I knew epoxy would be better for the job but I was impatient(again...still...whatever) and just used what I had. Although this is nice and tight now, it may give up and then what? I will have to hire someone to kick my butt and tell me I was a goof for not using the right glue(email me for applications :) ) When I heal from my buttkicking, I will put on a new handle.

Anyway, here's the knife. Balance point on this is right at the choil and I was hoping for a bit more weight out front. All in all, was a good learning experience and I like my knife.

campblade9.jpg
 
Kerry Hampton said:
...... Although this is nice and tight now, it may give up and then what? I will have to hire someone to kick my butt and tell me I was a goof for not using the right glue(email me for applications :) )
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I wouldn't worry that you'll have to hire someone. "They" will be lined up for free.........;)

Sure is a neat knife.
 
urethane glue is awesome glue, it just has to be used in the right conditions. I will use it with out hesitation if I can. I would not use it on a hidden tang myself. You don't have to bolt all the way to the back if you just use a couple stubby little pins in your tang. They will give you a solid mechanical lock with your epoxy so strong you couldn't pull it apart if you tried.
 
I have even used it to make a piece of micarta or two. Turned out much nicer then I thought that it would. It is more difficult then epoxy in a lot of way for making micarta but so far I have been happy with how it holds up to abuse and chemicals do not seem to touch the stuff.
 
Ok,,,if you were in the same situation again with the leather, and wanted to use a good glue that can be found in most places, what would you use?

I have some Sumo glue myselfe and was thinking about using it to glue the whitetail deer antler on the very end of the tang. (No pins)

The ability of the glue to grow a bit I was thinking could help me fill the little voids inside the antler????perhaps?

Or what should I use?
The drilled out antler is bigger than the steel tang. I had to drill out all the soft core but now I need something that will not just stick, but also swell up a bit to fill in all the voids that might be in there unseen.

Suggestions?
 
I like that chopper A LOT... did you have problems in grinding such a reverse curved blade?
Do you mind if I forge myself one like that?

PS: if Sumo glue is what I think it is, thereis very little chance your knife will come apart. Ever.
 
You should show that off over in Wilderness & Survival Skills. Those guys would love that knife.
 
Alarion said:
I like that chopper A LOT... did you have problems in grinding such a reverse curved blade?
Do you mind if I forge myself one like that?

PS: if Sumo glue is what I think it is, thereis very little chance your knife will come apart. Ever.
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I dont think it will come apart, but if it does I think I can fix it. :D

As far as grinding is concerned, I did it all on a slack belt. Was my first attempt at that btw and I was very happy with the results. I just eyeballed it...no scribe lines to follow. I was SHOCKED at how sharp an edge this convex grind became. When I tested it by chopping on a piece of poplar and a little arm shaving, the edge remained. I did that about three times and I was shocked again. Probably dumb luck since this was my first forged blade.

God willing, I have enough time to screw something up next time but this one came out better than I expected.
 
Allan Molstad said:
So if not Sumo glue, what would you suggest?

and whats a good glue for antler?
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30 minunte Epoxy. That's one of the benefits of this particular thread. I went thru that whole thing to ask about, then share with people what glue to NOT RELY ONfor gap filling. Read the thread now. There will be a test at 2pm EST. :D
 
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