Loctite Xtreme Repair Adhesive

Sando

Sando

Knife Maker
Joined
Jul 4, 2002
Messages
1,148
I've rebuilt the test sample for the next round of Glue Wars, it's curing now.

But, I just have to make a note on this Loctite Xtreme repair stuff. It's a retail, single component adhesive. Nothing special. I included it in the test as a lark - it was just there when I was buying samples.

Well it was the only one that handled the impact tests (it started to come loose but stayed on).

Anyway I made a new test bar and last night I noticed that I goofed up a bit and didn't get 100% coating under the Xtreme sample. So I tried to remove it. I put the sample bar in the vice use used pliers on the dymondwood so I wouldn't disturb the other samples. On the first attempt, the dymond wood chipped! Yes it broke before the glue gave up. It took a firm grip and slow steady, leveraged pull to get it off! It is incredibly impact resistant. It doesn't have the peel strength of epoxy, but it has other qualities epoxy doesn't have.

The stuff remains flexible. I am so incredibly impressed. It seems like the perfect adhesive for natural materials that shift a lot - like ivory or unstabilized woods. It would have to be used in combination with pins or bolts, but it's just what those materials are crying for.

Please spend the $3 and try it yourself. It's handy to have around the house anyway.

BTW the first tube I bought was bad. Looked like white latex. It's supposed to be translucent. Loctite replaced the tube for free.


Steve
 
Steve, I'll try and find some of that. I have 15 samples glued up and curing now that I will start doing something with this weekend after it has a couple days cure time. I also have some materials from Chuck Bybee to do a complete second set of tests to verify the first. TomW also sent me some T-88 which looks promising. I'm hoping the golf shafting epoxy is competitive as it seems to be one of the most economically priced per use.
 
Wow Tracy, you're tests are gonna be way above mine in completeness. I hope you've learn a bit from my mistake.

BTW, between you and me. I'm beginning to wonder about the stuff I used to clean the steel. After washing with Simple Green I used Electroclean. Seemed OK, but I've never used it before. I wonder, just wonder, if it compromised adhesion to steel?

For my re-test I switched back to the brake cleaner I've always used.

Dang there's a lot of parameters. I suppose I should try some tests using the same epoxy with different clearners.

Just FFT,

Steve
 
I wouldn't be so sure. You're tests have been pretty good. I'm going to try to not duplicate yours exactly but then there's only so many ways to do this.

I've been thinking about what would constitute tests that might most closely simulate real world stuff.

I'm going to try a tap test right away. This will be a several taps on the side of the wood with a light hammer to see which ones pop off. Simulates dropping a knife on handle. Some guys like to drop the knife on their big toes but I'm not going to test for that.

I thought I would cycle them through my freezer and heat treat furnace at 150F degrees several times. I suppose a knife could get hotter than 150F but I doubt it.

Then a soak in water for a couple days.

If there is any left still on, I'll stick them through the dishwasher a couple times and that should finish them off.

After each test, give it a few taps to see any come loose.

I had my first failure last night. I tried my wife's hot glue gun. It popped right off.

I also picked up 3 more glues/epoxies today to add. Once this batch is done, I've got a bunch of wood and metal pieces from Chuck B to test with and I'm going to try sand blasting the metal and repeating to see if that makes a difference.
 
Tracy,

You mean you hot glued on one? Dang you're giving everything a chance.

Forgot to mention. For this strip I put on two pieces with West System. Why? If they don't come off together, then I know it's not the epoxy. Know what I mean? I'm glad to see you're planning on repeat tests. With all the variables I think that's important. If no one epoxy wins means we have other issues. However, if one or two are consistently the top.... well then we'll have something!

Steve
 
Hi Steve and Tracy,

I was recently speaking with a production knifemaker who uses Loctite 324 for gluing up handles. It requires an activator. If memory serves me correctly, he said that in using it on over 5000 knives, he's only had one set of handles come off...not bad statistics IMO... Might be worth looking into...

:)

-Darren
 
Darren,

RW Clark uses 326 for his (very similar) it's pricy! McMaster has small quantities for about $18. I'm tempted to try it out myself. Actually sounds easier to use than epoxy. However, good-news bad-news it sets up fast!

It's also designed for zero glue line! That's another good news/bad. The surfaces have to be perfectly flat. It's looses a far amount of strength if it's over .5mm thick!

Hmmmm, the more I think about it more I'd like to try it.

Thanks Darren!

Steve
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top