Logo etching question

M

Matlock

Joined
Jun 26, 2002
Messages
125
Ok, I've built the etcher depicted on Bob Warner's webpage (thanks Bob for posting the plans) and I am testing the silk screen material used at my Uncle's T-shirt silk screening shop for a stencil. The first problem I'm seeing is that the electrolyte is getting behind the stencil in places I don't want. Could someone Please give me a quick rundown of how you prepare your workpice and the process you use to etch your logo into a knife?

TIA
Matt
 
I use a 12 volt power supply I bought from Radio Shack. It works pretty good but only has DC. But that is OK for me since I only do damascus, for now. And I etch the blade before doing the logo, then come back and lightly hit the logo area with ferric when it is done.

My process:

1) Clean the blade well (acetone)
2) Tape your stencil in place.
3) Apply the electolite to the felt. Only use a little bit, just enough to get the felt damp. Sounds like yoou might be using too much.:confused:
4) Use multiple short strikes on the blade. For example, Etch for three seconds, lift for five seconds, etch for 3, lift for 5, etc.
5) Do as many cycles as you need until you get the depth of etch you want.
6) Clean up.

Dc will take material away, AC will turn it black.

I am sure more knowledgable guys here will be able to help more.
 
I tape the stencil in the apropriate place on the blade, attach the ground wire to the blade, set my etching machine at about half power(marking methods), soak the felt on my hand pad with the apropriate electrolite. I then press the handpad on a folded paper towel, repeatedly, till I barely get a damp mark. I turn on the machine now, and using light pressure, put the hand pad to the stencil, and hold for 3 seconds, lift for a couple, and repeat. I do this for 15-18 times(the machine set on DC deep etch), I now set the machine on AC regular etch, and repeat the etching process for about 8-12 times. The last will redeposit black oxides in the etch. I remove the stencil, take the whole thing to the sink, and clean the blade, stencil, and hand pad, and felt with cleaning solution, followed by rinsing with water, and drying. You will probably have to buff lightly if the blade is mirror polished. If it is handrubbed, make a few passes with the finish paper. If machine satined, make a pass with a scotchbrite belt, of the appropriate texture.
I have a feeling your stencil material is not right for knives.:eek:
You can get the right stuff here.
http://www.img-electromark.com/
 
You are probably right about the material not beeing right for the job. I built the power supply and was testing this stuff because it is readily available to me. The material feels like a real fine cloth and has a mesh of about 150-200 squares per inch. I can probably get teh material down to 600 s.p.i my Uncle would have to special order it. What does the professional stencil material feel/act like?
 
A kind of green rubbery material, sandwiching the mesh. Ask for Pat (woman) at the link above, she knows what knifemakers need, as far as stencil material goes. :D
 
If memory serves correctly, thread counts are about 250TPI for "standard" stencils and about 350-400 for the "high res" affairs. Seeing a bit of liquid behind the stencil will not really produce any deep etching, but it will probably haze the steel, necessitating a bit of hand sanding or other polishing for cleanup.
 
What do you use for the electrolyte to wet thestencil with? Is there anything readily available at a hobby store or walmart?
 
you dont have to worry about the electrolyte solution behind the stencil, it wont affect anything, its the electricty thru the burned logo on the stencil that eats the metal below it.
 
I 2nd it with Tom :)
the silk your using would have to have a resist
around the lettering you want etched. you'll need the proper material as mentioned above.:)
 
Originally posted by Terry_Dodson
What do you use for the electrolyte to wet thestencil with? Is there anything readily available at a hobby store or walmart?
Click to expand...

Stainless, and regular steels take different electrolyte solutions. Call someone at these links and tell them what steels you use, and they will fix you up.
http://www.img-electromark.com/

http://www.lectroetch.com/

And to answer your second question, I don't know of any regular store where you could get anything like this. I have heard of people using home made solutions, but the results were way less than professional.:(
 
Great post and thread for me too. I just got my etcher and am ready to call about getting stencils made and what else I'll need. Since I like to use stainless and non-stainless I must remember to be specific about that when asking about solutions.

Thanks for the post and thread; Roger
 
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